Hi All,

Just wanted to let you all know the latest on my '05.

I was coming home about a week ago and it started running really rough. It had been flawless since my cooling system issues about a year ago. I was concerned it was an injector and I didn't want to hydro lock a cylinder so I got it off the road pronto.

I was only about 3/8 of a mile from home so my son and I pulled it to the house with a tow strap. I checked codes and I had a #3 cylinder contribution code.

I got a new injector from FICM repair and replaced it, but I had only 17psi on the ICP when I put it all together, bummer. HPO was fine when I shut it down.

I air tested it and I could hear bubbling in the rail area when I closed the IPR. I replaced the nipple seals and retested and it was nice an quiet. I also put new standpipe and dummy plug in while I was in there.

One thing I noticed was that the nipples before I put in the new o rings were loose in the sockets, I could move them easily. One of the o rings looked like it was about to disintegrate. All of them had lost flexibility so it's a good thing it failed when and where it did. I'd hate to be running down the super slab at 80mph and this thing quit on me 'cause it is a beyotch to steer and brake when there's no power on it.

I'm headed out now to put it all back together. I'll keep you all posted on results. Wish me luck.

Jim

 

Was the about disintegrated nipple cup for injector #3?
Any warning for HPO leaks prior? Do you monitor IPR?
Do you think you had a contribution issue prior to the HPO issue, or was the HPO issue causing the contribution?
Sorry for the riot act. Mental toolbox type stuff. Good luck with the project.

 

Yes, disintegrated o ring was #3.

The only warning I had was a "skip" under load at times. Nothing I could pinpoint looking at IPC values, just annoying. When it finally let loose, it wouldn't even idle.

No codes at all until it started skipping/running rough, then the #3 code showed up.

I have replaced odd side nipple o rings. I'll replace even side before I start it up. I just hope I don't cause one problem trying to PM another.

When I replaced the injector, I did notice that the oil rail didn't seat well at first. I had to move it around a bit to get the screws to go in correctly. When I put in the new o rings and torqued the cups down, it went in with no issue at all. Everything lined up perfectly.

I quit on it for the evening. I'll get the odd side buttoned up in the morning and start on the even side o rings after that.

No worries, I appreciate the response, didn't take it as a riot act. You all let me know what you really think, lol.

 

I went through this with my '05 July of this year and I took things to the extreme.

The concern was a hot no start after thew truck warmed up, but it would restart when cold.

I air tested with through the IPR and found that cylinders 2 & 4 were leaking via the nipple cup. I replaced them with the HHC Diesel Viton seals instead of the Victor Reinz seals I used last time (the cause of the problem).

Where I'm going with all this: If the nipple cup seals were leaking, it means that the top seal on the injector isn't far behind, so it's a good practice to reseal the top injector seal on the injector before re-installing. It took a vice and a punch for the to get it done, but I now have a completely resealed HPO system and my truck runs awesome. Alliant makes a good, complete seal kit whereas Ford only sells the bottom 3 seals.

 

I hear you. I had replaced all the injector seals about a year ago, so I think I may be good on that.

I used the HHC seals as well. I bought the kit with the seals and the tool. The tool is really nice, it lines up the nipples perfectly.

 

Well, I just got it back together. It took a while to get the oil rail filled but it did start and idles fine.

Once the oil pressure was up I was backing it out of the garage and fuel was leaking everywhere so I now have a new problem. I also had a glow plug module code... great.

I turned the engine off and started looking for the leak but couldn't find it. It looks like it's coming from the back, driver's side of the engine and leaving a big puddle underneath the bell housing.

When I tried to start the engine again, ICP was at zero and it took a really long crank to start it. I hope there isn't anything wrong with the new standpipe I installed. That passenger side valve cover is an unbelievable beyotch to get off.

Oh well, back to the garage to see if I can find the fuel leak. Then I'll try to start it again.

 

I probably had a good 10+ second crank after the first successful crank after plugs and pipes. So that doesn't surprise me a ton. Hopefully after you drive it some it'll get back to normal.
Hope the fuel leak is easily fixed.
A stubby gearwrench is a lifesaver on the bottom rear valve cover bolts if you don't already have one.

 

I figured it would take a while to get the oil rail full. This isn't the first time I've been in there, but it took a good 20 seconds to build pressure. When I restarted it took another 20 sec. After I get the fuel leak fixed I'll try again.

Regarding the fuel leak, I did replace both fuel filters and drained the separator while it was down. I thought maybe it had something to do with that.

I checked the fuel bowl and it was empty after running then sitting a few minutes, so there is definitely a leak or something going on. I turned the ignition on so fuel pressure would build and I didn't see any leaks at the bowl or on any of the banjo fittings.

It is leaking on the driver side only. It's leaking down onto the exhaust manifold so I can't run it long, don't want to start a fire.

So, I was wondering, could the fuel injector o rings on the even side be leaking and allowing fuel to fill up the valve cover and leak out of there?

Or, would it be more likely to be that plug on the back of the head? When I was underneath looking at it while it was running I didn't see anything coming out of that plug.

If it's that plug, holy moly, I'll have to disassemble the world to get to it. Guess I know what I'm doing tomorrow.

 

Check these two fittings.

 

Thanks, I will. I didn’t see any evidence of fuel in that area but I’ll double check.

I got that plug out of the back of the head, it was a real challenge. It’s a 6mm allen wrench. I had to cut it down about a quarter inch with a grinder to get it in between the plug and down pipe. I don’t know if it’s supposed to have a o ring or a flat gasket on it. The one that was on it looked flat. The only place I can get one that I can see is a Ford dealer or eBay.

When I started the truck after repairs fuel was pouring out underneath the truck, it diminished after a bit,but still dripping.

I can’t see anything in the valley,and I’ve looked all over the engine and engine bay, still don’t see evidence of a leak.

I went ahead and replaced the even side nipple seals. I don’t see any evidence of a leak from the injector o rings.

The oil rail plug will fit where the fuel rail plug goes, but the plug isn’t exactly the same. Guess I’ll just find a fuel rail plug somewhere.

I’ll keep you all posted on progress. Hopefully I can get it buttened up in the next few days and see if it’s ok.

At least I know that when the icp pressure gets to 500 it starts and idles well.

 

Update:

Truck is running fine again. Here's the synopsis:

1. Initial problem was rough running, wouldn't idle. I was concerned an injector let go so I got it off the road quickly, didn't want a hydro lock. The only code was #3 cylinder contribution code.

2. Installed reman injector from FICM repair on #3 cyl. Truck wouldn't start afterwards, HPO leak evident as IPC would only get to 17psi during cranking and had gurgling during air test.

3. Replaced nipple seals, odd side, truck started after HPO built up, but it started spraying fuel from back of engine. I had replaced both fuel filters and drained separator while it was down. The one in the engine bowl was filthy. Possible fuel pressure increase caused seal on even side rail plug to fail?

4. Installed new even side rail plug. Had to cut down a 6mm allen wrench to fit behind the downpipe. Replaced nipple seals too since I was already in that deep.

5. Truck started fine after HPO built up, no fuel leaks but new codes.

6. Whac-A-Mole. Now I have P0470, P0670, P0678. EBP circuit, glow plug circuit codes. Boost is fine, turbo is working. I know glow plugs work since it was 36 deg. out this morning and it started fine stone cold and the module is only a year old. Before the contribution code, I had no codes at all. Sheesh... always something. I'll start researching but since it runs fine, I'll take my time.

7. Anybody wanna buy it? I think I've fixed about everything on it.

Thanks for all the responses and suggestions.

Jim