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I have also noticed that the charging system is at 14.2-14.5v with spikes up to 14.9. It always used to run around 13.7-14.1v before I started having problems. Could the leak be causing the injectors to draw more power? I have load tested the batteries and they are good.
This new FICM half shell is now burnt internally, although the voltages are back to normal. Could it have been defective? I can't seem to get a straight answer from International on what their warranty is. I've only driven this FICM maybe 100 miles.....I'm starting to think that a Bullet Proof FICM is the way to go.
I changed injector o-rings, inspected my updated standpipes and dummy plugs and put back together. I am now trying to start and it is spinning easy-hard, easy-hard. (Which is what is was doing before the tear down only when it was hot) Will only crank about 6-7 seconds before the voltage gets down to 10 and so I let off. Both batteries are new this summer. I load tested both of them and they are good. The engine just seems to be requiring a lot of power to turn over. I took out ICP on valve cover and after a lot of cranking oil is trickling out. Shouldn't it be spraying out rather vigorously? I'm wondering if perhaps my HPOP is seizing up or my LPOP is not functioning properly. How much flow should there be from the ICP hole?
I'm at a standstill currently. I mentioned the FICM was toast in a prior post and the replacement from International was a piece of crap right from the get go. Although it has a 12 month warranty they are refusing to honour it so I'm trying to decide whether to go with Eds repair or the bulletproof replacement.
I think my batteries being weak this summer (they have since been replaced) must have cooked the first FICM and maybe the starter as it spins pretty fast for a few revolutions then sounds like things are getting tight and the voltage drops off pretty quickly. I have load tested the batteries and they test good but after about 10-15 seconds of cranking they need to be on the charger for a bit before I can crank again so I'm assuming the starter is drawing a lot of power.
So I'm putting a new starter in (under warranty) and a FICM power board. Hopefully my Autoenginuity will be here early next week and I will be able to get to the bottom of this issue.
The origins of this thread were for a P2290 for low oil pressure in the high pressure side. I probably won't get to the bottom of that issue until until I get it running again.
Thanks for the advice......
BTW can someone tell me if HPOPs die a sudden death or is it a slow slide into a non-functioning state?
I think you have the STC fitting personally (and it is likely to be bad). Also,the Alliance injector kit doesn't come with the dummy plug seals. As far as the starter goies, it sounds more like bad batteries than a bad starter (and the bad batteries and low voltage is what killed the FICM - not the low HPO pressure).
I think you have the STC fitting personally (and it is likely to be bad). Also,the Alliance injector kit doesn't come with the dummy plug seals. As far as the starter goies, it sounds more like bad batteries than a bad starter (and the bad batteries and low voltage is what killed the FICM - not the low HPO pressure).
I have replaced the dummy plugs and standpipes with the updated versions.
I have the cast iron HPOP cover so I assume that I have no STC. Engine date is Nov 04
I have load tested the batteries and they test good. Both new as of a few months ago. 12.5 and 12.6 volts at rest and both load test over 850 CCA.
you replaced the Power half to the FICM it still shows Good Power According to you so IMO its good What more do you want it to do thats all it does
that FICM wont turn on till it hit Around 600 ICP
since you wont post any values (You and God Only Know whats going on) Buy 1 Of EVERYTHING and Sooner or Later It will STart LOL
Good Luck with it
Hey whats with the hostility? The only parts I've "thrown at it" are injector seals because of the P2290 code and a FICM power supply board because of the P611 code. It doesn't show good power. It blew up as soon as I put it on. The stand pipes and plugs were done on one side 20000 miles ago and probably 8000 miles ago on the other when I had the rail off for an injector. The starter sounds like it is possessed and since it is warrantiable whats the harm in replacing it? Where are these parts that I've "thrown at it"?
I can't post values that I don't know. I posted this am that an AE was in the mail. I will post the values when I get them.
Sorrey about the Bad Mood Just took it wrong with tha gauge thing
How are ypou getting the Volts and FICM Numbers DVM??????
I have an Edge Evolution which is a tuner and code reader.
I have a digital volt meter on my dash. I don't have FICM numbers. I replaced my power board because of it throwing a 611 code. When I put the replacement in from International my voltage meter went nuts. I took it apart and found that the new board was burnt. My starter has been sounding really weird on hot start and now that I'm trying to prime the system it sounds really weird all the time. Thats why Im considering replacing it.
Sorry about the confusion regarding gauges. I thought my sig had enough info. Maybe I should add more....
You could have a Wire harness issue that Backfeeding power to the FICM and blowing it
is the Little Ground Loop on the FICM Ground to the intake manafold Stud
Wire is grounded. FICM just started to act up when starter started to sound weird. P2290 has been steadily getting worse but probably unrelated to the starter/FICM issue.