Hey Guys need some input and help today. The truck early 99 7.3 PSD F250 4x4, auto, a few modifications.
Today I experienced "No Power" upon acceleration from a stop or when attempting to pass another vehicle. There is no SES light on.
When the fuel pedal is pushed to the floor, truck downshifts, rpms build slowly...No Power.
It's not like before when I would push the pedal to the floor and the truck would push me back into the seat and take off. I have made some repairs in the recent months.
1. Installed the Big Head Actuator from Banks. Didn't notice anything positive from this install.
2. Rebuilt the Exhaust Back Pressure Valve Piston...Leaking
3. Rebuilt Fuel Bowl...Leaking
4. Melling Low Pressure Oil Pump......Slow to rise..265,000 miles on engine.
5. Complete CAC Intercooler Boot Kit.....Leaking

The fuel bowl repair was completed last week and that's when I noticed no power. After rebuilding the fuel bowl, I drove the truck around easy and returned to the house and checked for leaks. I didn't need any power from the motor. But today I did and that's when I noticed the no power issue.

I would appreciate any guidance, help finding the problem and getting it repaired. Thanks in advance...

Jeff

 

Hey Jeff,
I have a budy with the same problem, have you determined what yours is?
We don't know were to start, i told him a scanner while the truck runs and see if any codes come up, still looking.
Thanks
Nelson

 

Jeff:

If it started when you did your fuel bowl rebuild...perhaps you messed up the spring on your Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) when you reinstalled it. It sounds to me like you have a low fuel pressure problem, in which case you need a fuel pressure gauge on the back of your fuel bowl. Probably pre-filter would be best (top port, bottom one is post-filter). You can pick them up for about $50.

It is possible you may have a clogged screen in your fuel tank. An easy way to test that is to disconnect the fuel line coming from your fuel tank to your fuel pump, and blow back towards the fuel tank with compressed air (please make sure your gas cap is off...and short bursts only...otherwise you'll make a mess).

Another possibility, which I just experienced...check to make sure the nut is securely fastened on your IPR sensor. At low RPMs, when you try to accelerate it will try to stall the engine if it's really loose or completely off (mine was off, and sitting in the valley like a shiny nickel).

Yet another possibility, unplug your ICP sensor and try to run the truck. If it runs mostly fine, then your ICP or IPR is going bad. If there's oil coming out of the electrical connector in your ICP, that's an obvious sign the ICP needs replacing.

Hopefully between all of those suggestions you'll find your culprit.

 

Sorry...one other thing...

When you did your fuel bowl rebuild, did you gut the fuel filter check valve assembly? You know, the black vertical post the fuel filter fits onto. If not, are you sure you put it back together correctly? If the plunger is not freely moving inside of it (if you left it intact), that will cause fuel problems. Personally, I'd just gut the whole thing...many do.

 

Thanks so much for all the replies and suggestions. I spent part of the afternoon going over the engine and ya know...I'm such the ditz....I found that I forgot to reinstall the line from the MAP sensor to the spider manifold. Hooked that back up and WAM! the truck now has power. Thinking of this situation a question comes to mind. Why didn't a code get thrown for the MAP sensor since is was not connected to the spider manifold?
If you may have an answer please let me know. The SES light works and occasionally I get a code. Again in this instance I didn't get a code.

Thanks for all your ideas and help. Hope this thread helps someone else down the road.....

Jeff

 

Sorry...one other thing...

When you did your fuel bowl rebuild, did you gut the fuel filter check valve assembly? You know, the black vertical post the fuel filter fits onto. If not, are you sure you put it back together correctly? If the plunger is not freely moving inside of it (if you left it intact), that will cause fuel problems. Personally, I'd just gut the whole thing...many do.

Tailgate...I have a question: What does the check valve do when assembled to the black vertical post? In the directions for the rebuild kit stated not to lose the check valve. When I disassembled mine there was no check valve to be found.

Jeff

 

Glad you found it and it was a simple fix.

If you ran it long enough, you might have set an SES light for no/low boost detected. But with the line not connected, it essentially thought you were just putting around.

 

That black vertical post IS the check valve assembly. Inside it there is a spring a few other parts like the plunger, etc. Basically, you just take everything out and put the post back in (because the fuel filter needs to be installed on it).

 

look at the transmission solenoid regulator

 

Hi George! Looks like solid advice there, thanks.

Given that good advice, this forum will benefit from your input. Please keep looking over the current threads and contribute.

That particular thread was from 2012 and they probably resolved it by now.