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2000 excursion not going over 30 mph

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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 01:00 AM
  #1  
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Scott Johansen
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2000 excursion not going over 30 mph

Can anyone help me here, i just put new plugs in and changed the fuel filter i also hooked it up to a ecm reader to see if there where any faults and it does not have any.so i reset the computer just he same But for some reason i cant get it going over 30 mph and when i floor it it just doesn't go anywhere. At first it did read faults in the 6 plug but i didn't have a check engine light on i just replaced the coil and plug but now after i did everything i cant get above 30 and its scarey i just don't know what to do can someone please help a new guy out
thanks
it does idol normally
as for the fuel pressure i took the filter off and turned it over and fuel runs through fine from the tank
i checked the wiring and it looks ok
no codes are present

this just started it happened a long time ago but after i changed the fuel filter it worked fine so i changed it again thinking it was the problem again but after i did it the problem still persists

i don't have any check engine light on either
 
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 03:38 AM
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first you should prolly say which motor you have.

does it stop hard at 30 like its governed or does it just generally not have any power and runs out of breath around 30?

If it was the fuel filter once and changing the fuel filter fixed it, I wonder if there isn't a fuel related issue. Have you checked fuel pressure? EFI engines operate at high pressure. Its not like an old carb truck where if there is fuel flowing through the line its generally good. EFI trucks use a high pressure pump, usually in tank, to run fuel through the fuel line, through a fuel regulator, and then through a return line back to the tank, so if the pump is calling it quits or the regulator is bad, it could have all the volume of fuel flowing through it but not reaching the proper pressures to supply the correct amount of fuel.

If this is the problem its effectively running lean and this can damage the engine.

I don't have a gas engine so I can't provide specific trouble shooting tech for that engine but I'm sure someone else will chime in. Might also try the engine forum.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 03:45 AM
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What happens is when its parked i can floor it and the rpm rev up no problem, when i drive it i can floor it then all of the sudden after about 2 or 3 mins of driving its like the truck has a governor on it and if i let up on the pedal i can go a little faster but not much
i cant understand what the problem can be, i wish i could take it to a dealer but i don't have a job and cant afford to have it checked so i have to ask questions to people that know a hell of a lot more then i do with this kind of problem. So any help and tips will help me understand what i can do to make my baby run right again
 
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 03:53 AM
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Thats likely because in park there is no load on the engine, but when actually going down the road the weight of the vehicle is loading the engine and it needs more fuel. Like I said, I don't have a gas engine, and you probably should say which engine you have, but what you are saying is consistent with an engine that is having fuel delivery problems. I think you should check your fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Some fords have a port you can use a regular air gauge for, but I'm not sure if whatever motor you have will have that or not, I know the mustangs did. If not then you will have to get the kits that T into your fuel line. Harbor freight has some that are inexpensive. I'm sure once it gets to a more reasonable hour a few more fellows will chime in with other suggestions.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 07:15 AM
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My '97 F250HD 7.5L V8 had symptoms that sound just like yours. Turned out the CAT was totally clogged. I had the CAT gutted and added a DynoMax exhaust and it had no more problems. Too much back pressure will make the truck go no where. When it happened to me I thought it was the transmission.

Good news is... if you have a clogged CAT, the fix is damn cheap, take off the CAT and ram a big azz steel rod through it to smash out all the honey comb crap and put it back on.

Oh yea, it is easy to test also. Just take the CAT off and see if it gets its power back.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 08:43 AM
  #6  
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I think I'd change the fuel filter if it needs doing first.

Then, pull the front O2 sensor and check for pressure there. That would indicate a clogged cat. Some pressure is normal, but more than say 10-15 PSI would be bad (I'm guessing on that number).

After that I'd check for proper fuel delivery and pressure from the schrader valve on the fuel rail into a cup.

If all that checks out it's time to hook it up to a scanner and read the codes and do some diagnosing of the problem.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 02:59 PM
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Thank you all for the input, i would like to address the size first i have a v 10 2000 gas powered.excursion

I thought about the cat and am working on that as we speek, and as for the fuel filter it has been replaced already.

I did get a code about 10 mins ago stating the MAF was bad so i am going to check that as well

Thanks again
 
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 04:13 PM
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MAF has a lot to do with proper fuel mixture. Check to make sure it's not got something in it and use MAF cleaner on it.

With a scan tool with real time data on it you can test these things. I think that's what you're going to need. The price of the parts is enough that you'll get in trouble just throwing stuff at it.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 07:50 PM
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a plugged cat will immediately be noticeable as the exhaust will usually glow red on the pipe before the cat once the truck warms up, very little exhaust will be coming out the tailpipe, and its not uncommon for you to hear backfiring through the intake if a cat gets plugged up enough enough to hinder performance. Having said that, its actually pretty rare for a cat to get plugged up enough to have a significant effect on engine performance. And if you ram it out as suggested, the truck will no longer pass emissions and will pollute significantly more. On many cars that use 2 o2 sensors, both before and after the cat, the vehicle runs less efficiently after removing the element of the cat. Its also worth mentioning that if you really want to remove the cat, you can weld in a replacement pipe in about 30 minutes, and sell your cat for scrap and get $90 bucks for it.
But as suggested, diagnose the problem before you go about ripping things out trying to fix it.
 
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