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Thanks everyone for all the responses and information.
1fixitman, no way I'm doing that myself!
Come on man. I am short, fat, bald, got big ears and have to use a step stool to work on my truck. If I can do it, I know you can do it. LOL
I hope you get er fixed up. If you were close enough I would tell you to come over to my place.
Dwayne
The one thing that happens when you do not have the EBPV is that in order for the engine to heat up at idle....you have to drive it. It will not just heat up sitting in the driveway at idle any longer because the Back Pressure Valve can not add load to the engine any longer. Lots of people have done it. I know Bob at Dieselorings.com who lives in Colorado did it to his truck.
Removing the restriction and never having to deal with that leak any longer.....I believe is worth it.
The rebuild kit for the actuator is $99. 99-03 Turbo Pedestal EBPV Rebuild Kit
This does not guarantee that it will fix the leak. The walls of the cylinder that the piston rides in may have been damaged and a new pedestal is 100$
The price I paid for the blank pedestal was 122$ My labor was free. I now have one less thing that can wear out on my truck and no flow restrictions to my turbo exhaust wheel. Yeah!
You might ask someone who has already deleted thier valve and also own Auto Enginuity to measure ambient temp on a cold day and to idle thier truck.
They should measure time in minutes and coolant temperature to see how long it takes to warm up the truck or when the temp stops going up.
Someone in a similar ambient temp WHO STILL HAS thier EBPV and owns AE could do the same thing and see what the difference in warm up is.
They need to do this without having the Engine Block Heater plugged in.
It will take me a few months to do this as I live in South GA and it will not get very cold until Dec/Jan time. It will not get near as cold as in the northern areas.
It could provide some good data if a few members could do this. Just a thought.
Dwayne
You might want to start a NEW thread and ask for this to be done in November/December time. At least we could get some information.
I am now wondering what the difference would be with the Engine Block Heater plugged in for the same test. I guess we have a new project if a few with AE could do this and log the data.
Honestly, for the most part I would say it is negligible. High idle will still engage, and a high idle tune will allow for a slightly better warm up. But driving is what will provide the quickest warmup.
I usually engage high idle, for about 5-10 minutes, then proceed.
Honestly, for the most part I would say it is negligible. High idle will still engage, and a high idle tune will allow for a slightly better warm up. But driving is what will provide the quickest warmup.
I usually engage high idle, for about 5-10 minutes, then proceed.
Increase in hp or fuel economy? Quicker acceleration with the faster turbo spooling?
Just a slight increase in spool up so slightly quicker acceleration, and slightly lower EGT's, really the biggest reason would be to eliminate the leaks.
HP or Fuel economy would all still in my opinion, be very slim.