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That's probably it. Something concerning the back pressure and the pedestal for the turbo, removing leaks or something. I just left his shop, talked a bit more about injectors and the turbo AND, yup, fuel economy but I won't get too much into that now. I will say, however, that he see's up to 25 mpg on 7.3's he's installed single shots in. We'll leave that there.
Btw, this was parked out front, The Man's wife's 600hp 7.3 F250, daily driver. Pretty damn sweet!!
Tex - Just did my delete of the ebpv last month - Seems to Spool up quicker - A little faster throttle response - Cant tell much mileage difference. I can usually get right at 20 mpg highway if I set the cruise at 65( not towing).Got rid of a oil leak at the ebpv rod at the same time. Boost is better but I did new cac boots at the same time so I think that I had a couple small boost leaks.
I need to check if I have pmr or forged rods as that'll tell me what I can go with. I want a bigger turbo and single shot injectors (with possible 100% nozzles) but need the thing to not have any issues such as cracked rods. David said if they're pmr's he would only recommend stock nozzles, so I'm crossing my fingers. My model may or may not have forged rods. He said to go ahead and do that delete at the time of the turbo install.
All these minor things I'm sure will help and I do have an up pipe leak, found that out when I had my tranny rebuilt last week. I'll be replacing those as well.
Tex - Just did my delete of the ebpv last month - Seems to Spool up quicker - A little faster throttle response - Cant tell much mileage difference. I can usually get right at 20 mpg highway if I set the cruise at 65( not towing).Got rid of a oil leak at the ebpv rod at the same time. Boost is better but I did new cac boots at the same time so I think that I had a couple small boost leaks.
The ebp delete was talked about for the turbo, I meant mileage increase with single shot injectors. Do you have singles and if so, did you see any increase in economy?
I'm pretty new to all of this, first diesel ever and learning as I go along, but what the heck is a cac boot?
I need to check if I have pmr or forged rods as that'll tell me what I can go with. I want a bigger turbo and single shot injectors (with possible 100% nozzles) but need the thing to not have any issues such as cracked rods. David said if they're pmr's he would only recommend stock nozzles, so I'm crossing my fingers. My model may or may not have forged rods. He said to go ahead and do that delete at the time of the turbo install.
All these minor things I'm sure will help and I do have an up pipe leak, found that out when I had my tranny rebuilt last week. I'll be replacing those as well.
Soon!
I do not agree there.
With 100% nozzles you can not only shorten the PW, you can hold back SOI as well, yet still empty the injector.
You're talking to a complete noOb here, CSI, it's like you're speaking Martian. What the heck is PW and SOI?
And I meant stock nozzles as part of keeping her at around 400hp with all upgrades such as a 38r turbo, injectors, exhaust and tunes as a total package. Does that make sense?
The ebp delete was talked about for the turbo, I meant mileage increase with single shot injectors. Do you have singles and if so, did you see any increase in economy?
I'm pretty new to all of this, first diesel ever and learning as I go along, but what the heck is a cac boot?
Thanks.
The intercooler boots -The six rubber boots at crossover & intercooler. I have stock injectors. Cant help u with that.
PW means Pulse Width. Meaning that a Pulse Width Modulation signal is fed to the injectors via wires. The longer the Width of the Pulse signal, the longer the injector is being told to inject for. I have not heard the SOI term before. I think it may have to do with Oil Injection but I don't really know.
Dwayne
Here is my thread on installing a 470 ohm resistor for the EBPV solenoid in the pedestal after removing the old pedestal and installing a blank pedestal. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-install.html
I used a 90 degree die grinder with carbide rotary files to grind the rivets in the EBP Valve and then used a punch to knock the rest of the rivet out. Then removed the valve disc and pulled the valve stem out. I cut a piece of the valve stem to put in the hole and welded the hole up. You can see the picture with the valve removed and the picture of the hole that I welded up that the valve stem used to come thru the turbo outlet. The oil leak is solved by putting in a blank pedestal or pedestal that does not have a EBPV acutator cut into it. You have to install the 470 ohm resistor to keep from getting a code for the EBPV failing to actuate. Hope this helps. Look at the pedestal really close and you will see all the grime and oil that was leaking out of the EPBP actuator rod hole.
Dwayne