Why The Bubbles?
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Why The Bubbles?
I have an 03 F350 srw 4x4 with 308000 on it. It runs good, no real issues other than the cooling system pressurizing almost instantly after start up. I flushed the system completly this weekend, still does it. It doesn't run hot or overheat,and no noticable loss of coolant in the last 200 miles.
I just bought this truck & I love it! Just want to take care of it & do the right thing. It's my first diesel, but hopefully not my last. I do all my own work and this one will be no exception. I can't decide if its a head gasket or egr cooler. Any way to tell the difference? No smoke on startup or when driving. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated! I am completely ignorant about diesels, but willing to learn.
I just bought this truck & I love it! Just want to take care of it & do the right thing. It's my first diesel, but hopefully not my last. I do all my own work and this one will be no exception. I can't decide if its a head gasket or egr cooler. Any way to tell the difference? No smoke on startup or when driving. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated! I am completely ignorant about diesels, but willing to learn.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Blue Hill Township
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Saratoga Springs,UT
Ya change ALL FLUIDS AND FILTERS use OEM filters only
here a good place to get them
Home - Diesel Filters,Additives,brake rotors, and brake pads for Chevy, Dodge and Ford Diesel Trucks
Now lets make shure you have an OEM Oil Filter CAP this is Important
BOTH STYLE OIL FILTER CAPS YOU WANT THE ONE ON THE LEFT SIDE ITS OEM
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post11094677
Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: DEVINE, TX
Get a combustion gas tester from on of the friendly auto pars stores, around $50.00.
http://www.google.com/url?url=http:/...9gRunqeYL8cbaA. Or something similar
Place the tester in the degass bottle and from a cold start watch the tester to see if you are getting gas into the coolant system.
If you are, using some software like the AE, kill one injector at a time and watch the gas tester. When you see a noticeable decrease in the bubbles, you will know which cylinder has a blown gasket.
Mine did the same thing if just running around empty or pulling a load if I keep,the boost below 20 PSI. If I exceeded 20 psi, it would heat up and puke after about 5 minutes but cool right back down when I decreased the boost.
http://www.google.com/url?url=http:/...9gRunqeYL8cbaA. Or something similar
Place the tester in the degass bottle and from a cold start watch the tester to see if you are getting gas into the coolant system.
If you are, using some software like the AE, kill one injector at a time and watch the gas tester. When you see a noticeable decrease in the bubbles, you will know which cylinder has a blown gasket.
Mine did the same thing if just running around empty or pulling a load if I keep,the boost below 20 PSI. If I exceeded 20 psi, it would heat up and puke after about 5 minutes but cool right back down when I decreased the boost.
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The cooling system pressures up within a minute or less upon starting. It doesnt puke or overflow if it is filled to the minimum line. Never overheats either. The cap does have to vent pressure constantly though. You can hear it if you listen closely.
BLADE35, I fully intend to change ALL fluids and filters ASAP and only use genuine Motorcraft stuff. As for the filter cap, I will have to check on that.
SHOOTER22250, I dont have any scan tools or anything else like that. I guess I'm what you call a little behind the times. This is the newest truck I have ever owned. Newest before this was an 82 3/4ton 4x4 with a 454 & 400 turbo! This is also 1st diesel truck as well. I am used to workin on tractors & a few grain trucks here and there, but nothin as complex as this. I'm gonna have to learn fast!
BLADE35, I fully intend to change ALL fluids and filters ASAP and only use genuine Motorcraft stuff. As for the filter cap, I will have to check on that.
SHOOTER22250, I dont have any scan tools or anything else like that. I guess I'm what you call a little behind the times. This is the newest truck I have ever owned. Newest before this was an 82 3/4ton 4x4 with a 454 & 400 turbo! This is also 1st diesel truck as well. I am used to workin on tractors & a few grain trucks here and there, but nothin as complex as this. I'm gonna have to learn fast!
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Fleet Owner
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The degas should not pressure up within minutes. It should require the heating and expansion of the coolant to compress the vapor space and build to the 8-10 psig that is normal. This is how a degas system differs from a system with a radiator cap. If it pressure up that quick, you have combustion gasses entering into the coolant system.
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Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Saratoga Springs,UT
That small Line is a EGR Cooler Deairation Hose
If it has alot of small Bubbles coming out of it I Kinda thinking the Oil Cooler maybe plugged and starving the EGR Cooler of Coolant and Flash boiling coolant in the EGR Cooler
You need a ScanGaugeII from AutoZone or Here www.scangauge.com its $$150.00$$ or so and well worth it Dont get any other kind of scanner at AZ or Oreilys they wont do what you need many make this mistake
You need to monitor ECT vs EOT at 65mph steady after Compleate Heat soak EOT should not exced 15*f above ECT
EOT=Engine Oil Temp
ECT=Engine Coolant Temp
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post11094677
Some smart Folks here that will help ya No worries
as far as wrenching not to Bad really
read this
6.0L Bible Table of Contents
and then in spare time this
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ch-folder.html
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Bubbles seem to come from bottom of degas bottle. I do have a compression tester somewhere, will have to dig it out. Havent had time to pull EGR yet, going to try to get it done this weekend. Scantool sounds like a good idea, will it allow you to change any perameters (tune) as well? Don't really want to just curious. want to keep it simple and stock if at all possible. Will definately do an EGR delete if I have to dive in. Thought about just welding the exhaust ports shut on the cooler. Any feed back on this way vs. a store-bought kit?
P.S. Thanks to all of you who post. It really helps to calm me down sometimes. Dont get on the computer every night and cant type worth a damn either so sorry for that in advance too! lol
P.S. Thanks to all of you who post. It really helps to calm me down sometimes. Dont get on the computer every night and cant type worth a damn either so sorry for that in advance too! lol
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From: Millersville, MD
A ScanGauge is ONLY a set of gauges.... see it here: Products : Linear Logic - Home of the ScanGauge
It can read SOME fault codes too, but I wouldn't depend on it for that. It's worth the price JUST for the guages!
It can read SOME fault codes too, but I wouldn't depend on it for that. It's worth the price JUST for the guages!
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,055
Likes: 235
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
A ScanGauge is ONLY a set of gauges.... see it here: Products : Linear Logic - Home of the ScanGauge
It can read SOME fault codes too, but I wouldn't depend on it for that. It's worth the price JUST for the guages!
It can read SOME fault codes too, but I wouldn't depend on it for that. It's worth the price JUST for the guages!
GREAT INFO^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I will add that since we have so many X-Gauges for SGII most the time you can figure it out without a CODE/DTC
Normaly if the CEL is On SGII will read the DTC ( Diagnostic Trouble Code)
Well worth the $$160.00$$
Mine has saved me a Ton of money its paid for itself Many Times Over easy
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