When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
hey everyone im a 24 year old full of ambition bought a 05 f250 lariat fx4 with 197 000 km or 123 000 miles. i bought the truck with high hopes to open my own landscaping business but soon i realized i better start hoping for a miracle. I bought the truck and after dumping 3 grand into the diff and suspension i decided to start looking into the motor... so far I have got about 7-8 mpg for a tank of diesel which is mostly city and there's been idling but nothing that i think would make my mpg be that horrible. i'm starting to think this truck needs injectors but it runs smooth so maybe it could be something else? my ect and eots are at 25+ delta so i need an oil cooler and ill delete the egr. i went and tapped into the degas line with a 30 psi gauge and went for a drive... the truck is pressurizing like my rpm gauge it is going from 5psi flys to 16psi i let of the gas right down to 5psi... i was told by some if its pressurizing that fast normally its an egr as the exhaust leak will pressurize the system much quicker than a head gasket then other say head gasket hands down and me im thinking both with my luck. truck blows no while smoke starts good except when hot so i know there's probably failed dummy plugs which i would do the standpipes and stc as well. if anyone has any advice or tests i should conduct please help i love the truck but i hate the truck lol. i have access to ford parts at cost through family but still if i had to do an oil cooler egr delete head gasket studs and injectors i think that beyond my budget and who knows maybe ill need a turbo and heads while im in there right? if anyone is in toronto and willing to help me figure this out id be so appreciative of that.
A failed EGR cooler will leak coolant into the intake manifold. Pull the EGR valve and look in there for moisture. It can help the coolant to find its way foreward by parking with the rear of the truck higher than the front for a few hours or overnight. If its dry in there headgaskets will be suspect. The crankcase vent system can cause oily residue also so diagnose carefully. Clogged oil cooler makes life hard for the EGR cooler, and could be the cause of your fail. Driving with coolant getting into the cylinders increases cylinder pressures a lot and can cause it to spit out a head gasket. Hard to guess over the web but it's possible to have both problems if it's been driven that way for a while.
replacing the oil cooler and egr would be a great first step. with those delta,s its a mater of time before they go. small o rings on the bottom of the standpipes can wear and cause hard starts and so could be changed out . I work on E 350 and sometimes the lower o rings on the standpipes release first so you may be able to just back them out without removing the the HP oil rail. they cost about $90 each CAN. if your injectors are working why replace them. Try some fuel additive like archoil . you need fuel additive particulary in winter in TO. remember fluids filters fluids filters
What is making you believe your truck needs injectors, if it runs smooth? I believe the first step would be to have your truck scanned, along with some data monitoring before deciding what direction to go with repairing your truck.
What is making you believe your truck needs injectors, if it runs smooth? I believe the first step would be to have your truck scanned, along with some data monitoring before deciding what direction to go with repairing your truck.
I got the drivers side dummy plug out its a half inch drive socket not a 10 or 12mm Allan. The dummy plug o rings have no sign of wear the stand pipe is the 1/2inch drive one so it separates oddly the top o ring is fine also no signs of wear but the bottom section is down in the oil rail still but I hear the lower section on the Standpipes is unlikely to fail. My stand pipes are the ones with no male to female connection just looks like it must but up against the lower section once it's screwed into the oil rail. As for injectors I just assume with such horrible millage (7 mpg) some much be not working properly or something. I called a diesel shop and that what they said likely u may need some injectors if Ur millage is so bad I thought I would just update my ficm with an Atlas 40 tune and that would correct the horrible millage.
What is making you believe your truck needs injectors, if it runs smooth? I believe the first step would be to have your truck scanned, along with some data monitoring before deciding what direction to go with repairing your truck.
I got the drivers side dummy plug out its a half inch drive socket not a 10 or 12mm Allan. The dummy plug o rings have no sign of wear the stand pipe is the 1/2inch drive one so it separates oddly the top o ring is fine also no signs of wear but the bottom section is down in the oil rail still but I hear the lower section on the Standpipes is unlikely to fail. My stand pipes are the ones with no male to female connection just looks like it must but up against the lower section once it's screwed into the oil rail. As for injectors I just assume with such horrible millage (7 mpg) some much be not working properly or something. I called a diesel shop and that what they said likely u may need some injectors if Ur millage is so bad I thought I would just update my ficm with an Atlas 40 tune and that would correct the horrible millage.
I got the drivers side dummy plug out its a half inch drive socket not a 10 or 12mm Allan. The dummy plug o rings have no sign of wear the stand pipe is the 1/2inch drive one so it separates oddly the top o ring is fine also no signs of wear but the bottom section is down in the oil rail still but I hear the lower section on the Standpipes is unlikely to fail. My stand pipes are the ones with no male to female connection just looks like it must but up against the lower section once it's screwed into the oil rail. As for injectors I just assume with such horrible millage (7 mpg) some much be not working properly or something. I called a diesel shop and that what they said likely u may need some injectors if Ur millage is so bad I thought I would just update my ficm with an Atlas 40 tune and that would correct the horrible millage.
Okay, if your '05 has the 1/2" square drive style head, it means you have an early build '05, also identified easily by the EBP sensor being fastened to a bracket on top of the thermostat (as opposed to the front FICM bracket on later build '05 to '07 trucks). Those square drive style standpipes and rail plugs weren't as common to fail as the 10mm style plugs were, but nonetheless doesn't hurt to update to the 12mm style plugs and pipes with the white Teflon rings. If you've had your FICM sent out to ficmrepair.com I will ASSUME it has been gone over. As far as your delayed starts go, monitoring of some live data when it delays to start will be a better way to pinpoint the cause. 197,000 kms. is not overly high mileage for a 12 year old vehicle, but what is the engine hour count? To put it in perspective, your engine hour count multiplied by 40 will give you a better indication of how much engine wear you have (the number is 25 for miles). Is your PCM updated to the latest calibration level? To diagnose weak, faulty injector(s) requires use of IDS (Ford scan tool) to monitor cylinder contribution during cold engine start up with the weak cylinder compensation strategy disabled. I don't know of any aftermarket scan tool with this capability since I am a Ford dealer technician, and that is the only scan tool I use. For what it's worth, in my '07 truck the best mileage I could get was 12 to 13 mpg's under my heavy right foot so I agree that 7 to 8 mpg's is definitely on the harder end of the spectrum. If we were talking about a 6.4L truck however.......
Exactly the question I had in mind. The only reason why I didn't was because he already mentioned the Atlas 40 tune had already been done. I was actually thinking of having my FICM sent down for you guys to go over when I had my '07 even though there were no issues with it. Sadly, I ended up having to sell it to go into my '16.
ficm hasn't had atlas 40 updated to it but i was thinking of doing that. the ficm was sent out by the previous owner and has a re manufactured in the usa sticker on it output of ficm is 48 volts. not sure what to do with this truck engine hours are less then 4000 i believe ill check and repost exact numbers but i think 3800 give or take. im thinking the hard start if from another leak somewhere else not the standard dummy plug stand pipe traditional points of failure. i could do an oil cooler egr cooler stand pipes dummy plugs and stc my self but im pretty sure this truck needs a head gasket from the pressure test results. my turbo has no play that i can detect when i removed the intake to get to the drivers side valve cover i think that's a good sign? if i were to over haul this truck and dig all into the motor what other parts/gaskets are a good idea to replace besides the ones i mentions above that i could do myself.
....which is a very good sign. By my math, this means the engine has about 174880 kms. of actual running time wear, putting you below the 197,000 kms. of actual driven mileage. This means the truck was not idled a lot, as is typically the case with trucks used for plowing or used as a stationary power plant.
ficm hasn't had atlas 40 updated to it but i was thinking of doing that. the ficm was sent out by the previous owner and has a re manufactured in the usa sticker on it output of ficm is 48 volts. not sure what to do with this truck engine hours are less then 4000 i believe ill check and repost exact numbers but i think 3800 give or take. im thinking the hard start if from another leak somewhere else not the standard dummy plug stand pipe traditional points of failure. i could do an oil cooler egr cooler stand pipes dummy plugs and stc my self but im pretty sure this truck needs a head gasket from the pressure test results. my turbo has no play that i can detect when i removed the intake to get to the drivers side valve cover i think that's a good sign? if i were to over haul this truck and dig all into the motor what other parts/gaskets are a good idea to replace besides the ones i mentions above that i could do myself.
The STC fitting is likely the source of your extended engine cranking hard starts assuming that your ICP pressure is slow to build is what's causing it. Your head gasket(s) leaking combustion through the firing ring(s) would be more evident by the coolant bottle cap venting under load which you would see by the stain residue on the degas bottle (along with some degas bottle deformation depending on severity of the leak).
The STC fitting is likely the source of your extended engine cranking hard starts assuming that your ICP pressure is slow to build is what's causing it. Your head gasket(s) leaking combustion through the firing ring(s) would be more evident by the coolant bottle cap venting under load which you would see by the stain residue on the degas bottle (along with some degas bottle deformation depending on severity of the leak).
Anyone know What would cause poor fuel millage such as I'm experiencing. Also I want to compose a parts list I should replace along with the head gasket job.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.