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My 2010 f-250 superduty has about 65000 miles and now my batteries will not crank the truck. They both read 12.32 Volts. Are they good or bad?
They are Motorcraft BXt 65-750. The warranty is three year replacement and five years if I purchase them but since they came in the new truck Ford customer service says they are only covered under the 3/36000 bumper to bumper section.
Any experience challenging that warranty? It seems dishonest to me.
The warranty on the OEM battery is pretty cut and dried. I don't think you will get anywhere trying to challenge that. Particularly since you are way past the mileage limit.
You can't tell if batteries are good by the voltage. Get them both load tested, individually. You may find one that has a dead cell, which would explain the reasonable voltage, but not enough amperage to crank the truck.
Either way, about 3 years on diesel batteries is not unusual life. Cranking these beasts, and the glow plugs, is hard on the batteries.
Always replace them in pairs, even if only one fails the load test.
Your voltage might show good but your amps is probably way low. I just had to replace both of mine in my F350 tonight. I had Optima Red Tops and one was at 841 cca and the other was at 3 cca so I replaced both and kept the good one. I wanted to replace with Optima red tops again but they wanted $205 for one, I said hell no so I bought auto craft ones from AA. If we still had a sears in town I would have bought some AGM ones from them.
Yea they are probably toast but I am going to see if local battery shop can equalize them.
It just hurts to put out $400 in just two and a half years. I am becoming more and more disillusioned with the truck. A lot of little things are starting to go bad all of the sudden!
Cleaning cables is always a good idea. Also, be sure to check the alternator. What voltage is it putting out? You'll need to jump start the truck, let it run for 5 minutes, and then check the voltage.
You can have 13.6 volts but your amps might be way low. Just yesterday one of my batts had 12.88 volts but only 3 cca which is why mine was slow to start. Get yours load tested. I would think your would be a free replacement and then pro rated after that.
By using the alternator that is not meant to run at that
high load for a long time it stresses the diodes and
regulator. Lets say you have an alternator that is rated
at 140 Amp you really don't want to run at rated for
long periods of time. Also some guys with diesels (me included)
will mount a float charger or a high current charge plug in the truck
so you don't have to open the hood. Just plug in and top off charge
It is always best to use a battery charger to charge a dead or
very low battery. The charger is built to better deal with the heat
stress of high current charging for extended times. If you take a non-contact
thermometer and watch the temp of your alternator before and after you
start your truck you will see if get hot and then cool a bit after the peek
charging is done. My 6.0L the alternator reaches about 140F in under 10 min
with the hood open. The internal temp is higher I got a 170F if I point
down inside the unit. I think you get the idea. The diodes don't like to
live in lots heat for long times.
Hope this helps explain things.
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