looking for some help
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 518
Likes: 0
From: sycamore, illinois
looking for some help
So I'm working on a 97 7.3 that won't run has almost 300000 miles on it. So the owner was driving down the road and it just shut off the cam sensor was changed, fuel pump changed, idm changed (not surf why) been to 2 different shops they couldn't figure it out I'm thinking the hpo isn't working correctly I unplug icp sensor won't run. can't remember how to check the ipr was wondering if that could be it there is no faults but been a little while since I checked and the laptop that ae was on smoked haven't figured out how to make work completely on new one so any help is very appreciated sorry for long post thanks for the replies
Postmaster
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 3,447
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From: Monroe City in
Was the cps change with a ford or ih one? Does tac move while cranking? Do you get a wait to start light? Take the plug on top of the hpop off and see if the oil is close to the top. Just a few to get started
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: sycamore, illinois
Not sure on cps wasn't involved in that think carquest tack does move have to check the oil level for hpop was told there was oil in there by owner I pulled a high pressure oil line off and no flow coming out
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,121
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From: Orrville, Ohio
If you don't get any oil out of the HPO system you have an HPO problem. See if the tin nut on the back of the IPR has worked its way loose. If not, you may need to try a different IPR. NO HPO = No running truck.
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 518
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From: sycamore, illinois
That's what I'm thinking is the problem have another ipr was going to swap in tonight after work also have another pump if it comes to that will keep you guys posted and thank you for confirming my suspicions
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: sycamore, illinois
Well I swapped ipr valves isn't going yet but does act like it wants 2 start batteries are drained so charge them up and try tomorrow again
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,121
Likes: 3
From: Orrville, Ohio
Drained batteries can keep these trucks from starting. They have to have at least 10.5 volts while cranking in order to fire the injectors. Hopefully a few hours on the charger get you going!
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 10,008
Likes: 7
From: Austin, TX
Build yourself a mechanical HPOP gauge to see what ICP is while cranking. You need around 500+psi while cranking to start the engine. Here is a post I made awhile back with what is needed to build the gauge.
Nate has given you a good start. Check the fuel pressure while cranking and see what it's doing.
Another thing to check is HPO pressure(ICP) while cranking. You need about 500psi of ICP for the injectors to fire. You can do this with a good scan tool, a scan gauge, or build a mechanical gauge. You should have good ICP since you said your getting some smoke out the tailpipe, so at least some injectors are firing.
Here is what's needed to build a mechanical gauge(courtesy of Swamps as I lost my list).
You might spend $60 or so on high pressure hose, fittings, and a quality 0-3500psi liquid filled gauge, but having this hose available for future diagnostics will make it worth it.
The hose which you will need will need to be about 40" long, rated for
(minimum) 3000psi working pressure (12k psi burst rating) with the gauge on one end, and a #6 female JIC swivel fitting crimped onto the other.
You will also need an individual fitting to screw into the head to go from the head to the hose. This single fitting will be a 90 degree fitting # 5 "male boss" (sometimes called #5 male o-ring boss) on one end of the 90, and a # 6 male JIC on the other end of the 90.
Using a 5/8" wrench, remove any one of the HPO galley plugs, and install the 90deg fitting into the hole. (save the plug for reinstallation , after testing). The O-rings are reusable, unless brittle, cracked, etc... The single 90deg fitting will have a jam nut on the O-ring side...screw the
fitting into the head, "aiming" the 90 away from the turbo, intercooler pipes,
etc...and then tighten the jam nut, to "squish" the O-ring also locking the 90
from "spinning" around as you attach the swivel end of the hose to the 90. No
sealants, loctite, or teflon tape are needed on "JIC" or O-ring fittings...and
don't overtighten them...usually about 180degrees with a wrench past finger tight.
The finished mechanical gauge will look something like this.
Another thing to check is HPO pressure(ICP) while cranking. You need about 500psi of ICP for the injectors to fire. You can do this with a good scan tool, a scan gauge, or build a mechanical gauge. You should have good ICP since you said your getting some smoke out the tailpipe, so at least some injectors are firing.
Here is what's needed to build a mechanical gauge(courtesy of Swamps as I lost my list).
You might spend $60 or so on high pressure hose, fittings, and a quality 0-3500psi liquid filled gauge, but having this hose available for future diagnostics will make it worth it.
The hose which you will need will need to be about 40" long, rated for
(minimum) 3000psi working pressure (12k psi burst rating) with the gauge on one end, and a #6 female JIC swivel fitting crimped onto the other.
You will also need an individual fitting to screw into the head to go from the head to the hose. This single fitting will be a 90 degree fitting # 5 "male boss" (sometimes called #5 male o-ring boss) on one end of the 90, and a # 6 male JIC on the other end of the 90.
Using a 5/8" wrench, remove any one of the HPO galley plugs, and install the 90deg fitting into the hole. (save the plug for reinstallation , after testing). The O-rings are reusable, unless brittle, cracked, etc... The single 90deg fitting will have a jam nut on the O-ring side...screw the
fitting into the head, "aiming" the 90 away from the turbo, intercooler pipes,
etc...and then tighten the jam nut, to "squish" the O-ring also locking the 90
from "spinning" around as you attach the swivel end of the hose to the 90. No
sealants, loctite, or teflon tape are needed on "JIC" or O-ring fittings...and
don't overtighten them...usually about 180degrees with a wrench past finger tight.
The finished mechanical gauge will look something like this.
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 10,008
Likes: 7
From: Austin, TX
Don't hook the gauge up to the pump, put it in one of the plugged ports in one of the oil rails.
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