Oil Drain
First off, after getting my FICM repaired a few months ago my fuel milage went up by about 2 MPG. The only explaination I can come up with is when my new best friend replaced the top half of the FICM he did something , or the new batteries must have made one hell of a difference in input voltage. Anyway we talked at length about all of the upgrades we would both like to do and the EGR cooler from Bullet Proof came up. He told me that because of my milage I should be doing it soon!!!
Well I waited to long. I think I blew the EGR cooler the other night, Lots of white smoke and no power or acceleration. Had to haul it home. Now its time for all of the things I want to do, but before I tear it apart I wanted to flush the oil system with fresh oil to get out any coolant that might have made it to the crankcase. I can't find to thread where I found this but to keep from getting oil all over your hands and down your arms hook a shop vac to the oil filler tube, turn on the shop vac, pull the plug, turn off the shop vac. No oil on your fingers, no mess from splash on the floor.
If anybody knows who posted this info it had to do with installing a Fumoto drain valve on the pan and not wanting to wait until the next oil change. The embarasingpart about this is I used this some trick 30 YEARS ago to change a hydraulic hose on a big scraper with a 100 gal tank. I used a shop truck with a gas engine but the idea is the same.
on the 6.0 is the breather on the valve cover. The vacuum will keep the oil
from draining with the plug out. Just make sure that you don't do it during
a storm. Power failure would suck without a catch pan. For that matter
no one other than your self in the shop to trip over the cord.
Sean
This worked OK for me. Maybe I used up all of my luck for the month....
Lou Braun
PS: Do this on a cold engine.











