ficm problems
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Senior User
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From: Stanley nc
ficm problems
i just pulled my ficm off and re-soldered the joints....i put it back on and it still is dropping to 35 sometimes..my batteries are weak from just trying to crank it..would that cause it to drop like that..
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From: Stanley nc
yea thats what im guessing is wrong...i thought it was the fuel but ive done everything then i checked the ficm yesterday it dropped 3 times to 25 so i soldered it today and its worst now
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: ILL relocated to Ozarks
alexissvfd, also you don't say under what conditions the voltage is dropping?? Is it just intermittent while the engine is running,starting, or KOEO ??
The power converter on my truck will put out 48V all the way down to 9.7V for an input voltage, I don't think your 6.0L would still be cranking at that low of a voltage.
The power converter on my truck will put out 48V all the way down to 9.7V for an input voltage, I don't think your 6.0L would still be cranking at that low of a voltage.
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From: Stanley nc
im not sure how to post pics yet but it wont crank..i put the pos lead to the right screw closest to the driver fender and the neg lead to the neg on the battery and turn the key on and it goes from 48 to 30 and when i turn it over it goes back to 48 then back down to 30 or 35....
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 225
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From: ILL relocated to Ozarks
.
Sounds like to need to charge the battery before you do ANYTHING else!
:
If it will not crank then the batteries are basically DEAD.
Also note that with low battery voltage the power converter will draw EXCESSIVE current (around 40 amps) causing the converter components to heat up more then they normally would and there by creating the potential for damaging the converter board.
Sounds like to need to charge the battery before you do ANYTHING else!
:If it will not crank then the batteries are basically DEAD.
Also note that with low battery voltage the power converter will draw EXCESSIVE current (around 40 amps) causing the converter components to heat up more then they normally would and there by creating the potential for damaging the converter board.
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From: tonopah, az
im not sure how to post pics yet but it wont crank..i put the pos lead to the right screw closest to the driver fender and the neg lead to the neg on the battery and turn the key on and it goes from 48 to 30 and when i turn it over it goes back to 48 then back down to 30 or 35....
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Former Vendor
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Seriously, though, ship it on over and we'll take great care of you. Resoldering works for some, sometimes. Bismic is correct, though - lots and lots of times more needs to be done. We never just resolder and no module ever leaves without being tested first.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
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yeah - these are the frustrating threads. Pretty obvious problem. Solution given and 20 days later no followup post on it.
Multiple threads on it even .....
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1187677-ficm.html
Apparently he replaced the FICM last week.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-location.html
But was it with a new one or a rebuilt one? If it was a new one, was it even programmed?
Still low citcuit codes on injectors 2 through 7.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ont-crank.html
Still sounds like a FICM issue or a harness issue, but it would be nice to know if there is FICM Sync.
Multiple threads on it even .....
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1187677-ficm.html
Apparently he replaced the FICM last week.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-location.html
But was it with a new one or a rebuilt one? If it was a new one, was it even programmed?
Still low citcuit codes on injectors 2 through 7.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ont-crank.html
Still sounds like a FICM issue or a harness issue, but it would be nice to know if there is FICM Sync.
Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2010
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I agree. Those low voltage codes don't show up for nothing. That said, a couple low voltage codes combined with a solid voltage reading when manually measured shouldn't result in a no-start either. Maybe there's more than one thing going on...
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 225
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From: ILL relocated to Ozarks
Since you bring it up, what does this really mean in terms of verifying specifically that the power converter is actually functioning properly over its expected temperature range (say -50F to +250F), voltage range (low voltage to high voltage) and anticipated EMI/RFI radiation and/or power surges? Or does it just mean that the unit just had power applied at a nominal voltage(13.6 volts), room temperature(+72F) with no load on the unit and 48 volts was measured?
Thanks in advance for any clarification on these pertinent points.
Thanks in advance for any clarification on these pertinent points.
Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2010
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I am not aware of any vehicle simulator that fully replicates all of the variances that could occur in a real life application. As such, without incurring dramatically higher repair costs, we are left with a bench test process that ensures proper syncing to the ECM and load tests the modules simulating a zero degree cold start ensuring that the proper voltage is headed to all eight injectors for a period of time before declaring a module 'good'.
Is this process absolutely perfect? No.
Is it reasonable for the application? We'd certainly like to think so, especially as this proprietary testing application has proven itself effective at this point over 99.9% of the time.
Hope this helps!
Is this process absolutely perfect? No.
Is it reasonable for the application? We'd certainly like to think so, especially as this proprietary testing application has proven itself effective at this point over 99.9% of the time.
Hope this helps!