In a spring quandry
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 6,180
Likes: 83
From: Georgia
I put X codes on mine yesterday and LOVE the way it rides and sits. No more harsh, dash-jarring road patches and pothole patches. They are just a distant 'thump' now. This is how the truck should have came from the factory. I put C codes on the back yesterday as well. I have the Hellwig and didn't have much body roll before, but now there is none! I love driving my truck again. My truck never did the steering 'wander', I guess my steering box is still ok. But the way it drives and rides now, you would be amazed if you had ridden in it before. Do the spring swap, you won't regret it!
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
I put X codes on mine yesterday and LOVE the way it rides and sits. No more harsh, dash-jarring road patches and pothole patches. They are just a distant 'thump' now. This is how the truck should have came from the factory. I put C codes on the back yesterday as well. I have the Hellwig and didn't have much body roll before, but now there is none! I love driving my truck again. My truck never did the steering 'wander', I guess my steering box is still ok. But the way it drives and rides now, you would be amazed if you had ridden in it before. Do the spring swap, you won't regret it!
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
Well, you know what mine is; SHACKLES.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 6,180
Likes: 83
From: Georgia
Not sure what your complete setup is, but guys with V10s and a winch bumper with winch are around the same weight as the 7.3s. Just for reference. And no, the truck does not ride any rougher. My springs were so worn out that the Xs are actually a better ride.
Thread Starter
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Super Moderator
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 25,479
Likes: 742
From: Isanti, MN
All DONE!
I finally got the time yesterday to get some stuff done. First on Friday was the new cruise control deactivation switch, and then the Moog right inner tie rod end.
Yesterday morning saw airbags go on...
And of course I had to geek out a bit and take a video...these things are COOL!
Air Lift airbags - YouTube
Next came the springs. All in all it took me about 5 or 6 hours, but mainly because of messing around with the jacks and lining everything up. The TIPS SECTION in the tech folder was a huge help.
Mostly disassembled...
New spring IN...
Rinse, repeat, and all DONE:
I gained 1 3/4" in the front and about 1" in the rear with the bags at 20 PSI. It does ride a bit firmer, but not obscenely so, and the tradeoff for the slightly increased firmness is not hitting the bump stops every time I hit a pothole. All in all I think this was a worthwhile mod. Springs from Tousley were around $130 a piece, and the U-bolts were $20 each as well. So the total cost for the spring job, including MN sales tax, was around $370. The airbags will have cost me $225 once my rebate check arrives.
During my test drive last night I remembered that changing the ride height up front also had the effect of changing some of the steering geometry. My crooked steering wheel from the tie rod end job is now nearly straight!
So I'm glad I didn't go with airbags up front, as the variable lift would have meant that for every adjustment made my steering wheel alignment would have changed. Since the tie rods cover a fixed difference across the front axle regardless of axle height I don't think it would have affected the wheel alignment, but now I have one less thing to worry about.
I would have to offer a couple tips to any who consider this job:
1. While air tools aren't required for the spring swap they are HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.
2. An air ratchet should be considered required equipment if you plan on installing airbags, as this involves removing the rear jounce bumpers. None of our trucks are new anymore, and as Floundered FOUND OUT they are next to impossible to remove by hand. With a strong grip with one hand and air ratchet in the other the driver's side bump stop came out in seconds. The passenger side needed more work, but I had them both out in less than 30 minutes. This would not have been possible for me to do by myself without my air ratchet.
3. Have a crow bar handy for the front springs! I tried whacking the shackle with my BFH with no luck, but the proper application of force with my crow bar made this downright easy:
Yesterday morning saw airbags go on...
And of course I had to geek out a bit and take a video...these things are COOL!
Air Lift airbags - YouTube
Next came the springs. All in all it took me about 5 or 6 hours, but mainly because of messing around with the jacks and lining everything up. The TIPS SECTION in the tech folder was a huge help.
Mostly disassembled...
New spring IN...
Rinse, repeat, and all DONE:
I gained 1 3/4" in the front and about 1" in the rear with the bags at 20 PSI. It does ride a bit firmer, but not obscenely so, and the tradeoff for the slightly increased firmness is not hitting the bump stops every time I hit a pothole. All in all I think this was a worthwhile mod. Springs from Tousley were around $130 a piece, and the U-bolts were $20 each as well. So the total cost for the spring job, including MN sales tax, was around $370. The airbags will have cost me $225 once my rebate check arrives.
During my test drive last night I remembered that changing the ride height up front also had the effect of changing some of the steering geometry. My crooked steering wheel from the tie rod end job is now nearly straight!
So I'm glad I didn't go with airbags up front, as the variable lift would have meant that for every adjustment made my steering wheel alignment would have changed. Since the tie rods cover a fixed difference across the front axle regardless of axle height I don't think it would have affected the wheel alignment, but now I have one less thing to worry about. I would have to offer a couple tips to any who consider this job:
1. While air tools aren't required for the spring swap they are HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.
2. An air ratchet should be considered required equipment if you plan on installing airbags, as this involves removing the rear jounce bumpers. None of our trucks are new anymore, and as Floundered FOUND OUT they are next to impossible to remove by hand. With a strong grip with one hand and air ratchet in the other the driver's side bump stop came out in seconds. The passenger side needed more work, but I had them both out in less than 30 minutes. This would not have been possible for me to do by myself without my air ratchet.
3. Have a crow bar handy for the front springs! I tried whacking the shackle with my BFH with no luck, but the proper application of force with my crow bar made this downright easy:
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 6,180
Likes: 83
From: Georgia
Looks great! I can't believe the difference in mine. I know that I was told many times by the guys here that the spring mod was worth it, but dang! Love the way it sits, rides and mostly the way she drives. I too will be interested in hearing how yours pulls now. I probably won't tow the boat until spring now with mine as I use one of the duallies for towing everything else.
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