question on starting
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,096
Likes: 28
From: Mesa AZ
Thanks for all of your suggestions, however, I put in 2 new batteries and it still won't start with key. It was suggested that the reservoir wasn't full when trying to start. We tried to fill it, but it seems to be going down as fast as I put it in. I can't see any oil leaking anywhere. Any thoughts? Thanks.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
starting problem
Ok...... This is what happened; It all started around the time I changed my oil. The truck started to act up. I could catch it in gear, but it would not start with the key. When I tried to start it with the key it would turn the motor over fast enough that it should have started , but it didn't. So I asked and got a lot of ideas. I tried a lot of them, including changing the starter, nothing. I then took it to someone to put it on a machine, no codes came up. However, he felt the batteries might not be good enough, so I bought 2 new ones. He installed them and it did start. Now it's 2 days later, my son took the truck with a load of junk to the junk yard about 15 miles away. It stalled on him. He managed to get it started, then while he was going it made a loud pop and then he could hear the starter making noise. After that it started fine, but we were afraid it would ruin the teeth on the fly wheel because it was making such a loud noise. So I put my old starter back in. Now it started like it should for 10 or 12 starts. I thought it was fixed. Not. Today while I was taking stuff to the junk yard, it started to act up again. Had to catch it in gear twice, it turns over real fast but it won't start with the key. Checked the cables to the starter, they were good. I'm stumped. any ideas?
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,613
Likes: 8
From: North Georgia
Batteries. Even tho they are new... they still need a good charging system... i say you got a problem with Alternator/s. With a volt meter... check your battery voltage WHILE YOU ARE CRANKING THE ENGINE. The draw from the starter is probably enough that there isnt enough left for the injectors to fire.
Xtof
Xtof
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 492
Likes: 0
From: Jenkintown, PA
I know you said that it cranks fast, but these engines are very particular about the voltage needed to fire the injectors.
Since you tried replacing the batteries and starter, double check your wiring, paying special attention to the battery cables. They have been known to corrode under the insulation. Also check both ends of both ground cables; make sure the connections are clean and tight.
Next, measure the voltage at the high current stud that supplies the power distribution box with 12V. Measure the voltage between the stud and engine block while the engine is cranking. You will need at least 10.5V to fire the injectors.
If the voltage looks good, there could be a problem with the ignition switch. It's possible that the switch contacts that supply IGN power are defective in the crank position but good in the run position. Check the voltage at fuse #30 (PCM power relay) and make sure there is 12V while cranking. If not, the ignition switch is probably bad.
Chris
Since you tried replacing the batteries and starter, double check your wiring, paying special attention to the battery cables. They have been known to corrode under the insulation. Also check both ends of both ground cables; make sure the connections are clean and tight.
Next, measure the voltage at the high current stud that supplies the power distribution box with 12V. Measure the voltage between the stud and engine block while the engine is cranking. You will need at least 10.5V to fire the injectors.
If the voltage looks good, there could be a problem with the ignition switch. It's possible that the switch contacts that supply IGN power are defective in the crank position but good in the run position. Check the voltage at fuse #30 (PCM power relay) and make sure there is 12V while cranking. If not, the ignition switch is probably bad.
Chris
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 915
Likes: 3
From: Palatka, FL
Check every fuse in your truck. Your alternator "A" field fuse may be blown and not charging batteries while running. Remove belt. Remove alternator/s. Have them verified at parts house IF WHILE RUNNING YOU DO NOT SEE 13.1-14.3 VOLTS AT THE BATTERIES.
Dwayne.
Dwayne.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Ok, still won't start with the key. We've checked the alternator, it's good. we checked the ignition switch, it's good. We changed the HPOP, it's good. We did have the voltage checked at the IPR, at the HPOP, it had 11 volts with the key in the on position. It had dropped to 3 volts when cranking. Is that enough voltage or could something else be wrong?
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 7,793
Likes: 50
I think thats your problem. Where you ask, not sure bud, but 3 volts wont power my daughters bigwheel.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 6 Best Deals Available on New Fords & Lincolns Right Now
Brett Foote
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,613
Likes: 8
From: North Georgia
Are you testing directly across a set of batt terminal connections?
I cant believe your motor would still be turning over with that much drain.
You sir either have something bad wrong with your starter selonoid, or maybe the starter itself too much resistance drawing more juice? Check all your grounds real good. Like disconnect them... clean connector/block... reconnect.
Just got an old idi back to life today that had similar issues going on...
Had to jump across the selonoid terminals to even get her to crank tho..
Xtof
I cant believe your motor would still be turning over with that much drain.
You sir either have something bad wrong with your starter selonoid, or maybe the starter itself too much resistance drawing more juice? Check all your grounds real good. Like disconnect them... clean connector/block... reconnect.
Just got an old idi back to life today that had similar issues going on...
Had to jump across the selonoid terminals to even get her to crank tho..
Xtof
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
question on starting
I tested the plug at the IPR valve, while cranking the voltage dropped from 11 (while not cranking) to 3 volts (while cranking). My mechanic told me the wire from the IPR goes to the IDM. If that is correct, can anyone tell me where my voltage drain is coming from? By the way, the motor still turns over fast enough that it should start (with the key), but it doesn't start. And I can still start it by catching it in gear. Starter is good.
New User
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
The speed at which your engine is turning over is just going to make you shy away from the real problem. I would cast my vote with the group telling you it's a voltage issue. I would double and triple check everything. It sucks but it sounds to me like your on a hunt for a rotten wire
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
meier63
Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case
5
Dec 24, 2014 10:04 AM