If the engine starts when bump starting with the clutch, then the High Pressure Oil system is good. Your problem is with the starting circuit somewhere....have you checked for any loose connections on both ends of the battery cables?

 

Ok...... This is what happened; It all started around the time I changed my oil. The truck started to act up. I could catch it in gear, but it would not start with the key. When I tried to start it with the key it would turn the motor over fast enough that it should have started , but it didn't. So I asked and got a lot of ideas. I tried a lot of them, including changing the starter, nothing. I then took it to someone to put it on a machine, no codes came up. However, he felt the batteries might not be good enough, so I bought 2 new ones. He installed them and it did start. Now it's 2 days later, my son took the truck with a load of junk to the junk yard about 15 miles away. It stalled on him. He managed to get it started, then while he was going it made a loud pop and then he could hear the starter making noise. After that it started fine, but we were afraid it would ruin the teeth on the fly wheel because it was making such a loud noise. So I put my old starter back in. Now it started like it should for 10 or 12 starts. I thought it was fixed. Not. Today while I was taking stuff to the junk yard, it started to act up again. Had to catch it in gear twice, it turns over real fast but it won't start with the key. Checked the cables to the starter, they were good. I'm stumped. any ideas?

 

Batteries. Even tho they are new... they still need a good charging system... i say you got a problem with Alternator/s. With a volt meter... check your battery voltage WHILE YOU ARE CRANKING THE ENGINE. The draw from the starter is probably enough that there isnt enough left for the injectors to fire.

Xtof

 

I know you said that it cranks fast, but these engines are very particular about the voltage needed to fire the injectors.

Since you tried replacing the batteries and starter, double check your wiring, paying special attention to the battery cables. They have been known to corrode under the insulation. Also check both ends of both ground cables; make sure the connections are clean and tight.

Next, measure the voltage at the high current stud that supplies the power distribution box with 12V. Measure the voltage between the stud and engine block while the engine is cranking. You will need at least 10.5V to fire the injectors.

If the voltage looks good, there could be a problem with the ignition switch. It's possible that the switch contacts that supply IGN power are defective in the crank position but good in the run position. Check the voltage at fuse #30 (PCM power relay) and make sure there is 12V while cranking. If not, the ignition switch is probably bad.

Chris

 

Check every fuse in your truck. Your alternator "A" field fuse may be blown and not charging batteries while running. Remove belt. Remove alternator/s. Have them verified at parts house IF WHILE RUNNING YOU DO NOT SEE 13.1-14.3 VOLTS AT THE BATTERIES.
Dwayne.

 

Ok, still won't start with the key. We've checked the alternator, it's good. we checked the ignition switch, it's good. We changed the HPOP, it's good. We did have the voltage checked at the IPR, at the HPOP, it had 11 volts with the key in the on position. It had dropped to 3 volts when cranking. Is that enough voltage or could something else be wrong?

 

I think thats your problem. Where you ask, not sure bud, but 3 volts wont power my daughters bigwheel.

 

So,,,How do I fix it?

 

Are you testing directly across a set of batt terminal connections?
I cant believe your motor would still be turning over with that much drain.
You sir either have something bad wrong with your starter selonoid, or maybe the starter itself too much resistance drawing more juice? Check all your grounds real good. Like disconnect them... clean connector/block... reconnect.

Just got an old idi back to life today that had similar issues going on...
Had to jump across the selonoid terminals to even get her to crank tho..

Xtof

 

I tested the plug at the IPR valve, while cranking the voltage dropped from 11 (while not cranking) to 3 volts (while cranking). My mechanic told me the wire from the IPR goes to the IDM. If that is correct, can anyone tell me where my voltage drain is coming from? By the way, the motor still turns over fast enough that it should start (with the key), but it doesn't start. And I can still start it by catching it in gear. Starter is good.

 

The speed at which your engine is turning over is just going to make you shy away from the real problem. I would cast my vote with the group telling you it's a voltage issue. I would double and triple check everything. It sucks but it sounds to me like your on a hunt for a rotten wire