Reviving a Flathead
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,286
Likes: 1,050
From: NM
Have you pulled the intake off yet? That's where you'll see if the lifters/valves/guides are rusted up. They are tough to get loose if they've had water on them (or mouse nests, etc.). Pistons usually respond to a whack with a 2x4 and a hammer. You might also pull the cam gear off, so you can turn the crank independently of the valve train.
A 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF is one of the best penetrating solutions around, never hurts to just soak everything with that.
A 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF is one of the best penetrating solutions around, never hurts to just soak everything with that.
Thread Starter
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Parts Nerd Extraordinaire
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,345
Likes: 1,768
From: Western NY
I think it's dead, Jim...
Damn it Jim, I'm a computer whiz, not a mechanic!
I took off the other head and made this nice discovery:
Any hope of a sleve? Too big for pins? Coffee table?
As to the ID of the engine, heres this photo that I can't make any sense of:
And a overall sde view:
I took off the other head and made this nice discovery:
Any hope of a sleve? Too big for pins? Coffee table?
As to the ID of the engine, heres this photo that I can't make any sense of:
And a overall sde view:
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 7,493
Likes: 7
From: Erie, pa
It's a late model Flatmotor - Thats about as close as you'll get - The marks shown are casting numbers used to track the casting, not the type/style motor - These things have been so intermingled that it's a wonder thy don't have 11 cyl.
Matching the crank stroke to the rods and pistons is the only must do.
Matching the crank stroke to the rods and pistons is the only must do.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,286
Likes: 1,050
From: NM
EAB heads are the highest compression Ford heads, worth keeping, if not cracked.
Until you have it vatted and checked with dye or mag particle, don't get too excited. Especially check the sides of the block an inch or so above the oil pan rail. If it was left to freeze with plain water in it, you'll see it there. Anything "can" be fixed, but you're probably looking at a couple hundred for sleeving that cylinder alone. That kind of crack is usually from freezing, so there are likely to be more. Check the heads, too.
Until you have it vatted and checked with dye or mag particle, don't get too excited. Especially check the sides of the block an inch or so above the oil pan rail. If it was left to freeze with plain water in it, you'll see it there. Anything "can" be fixed, but you're probably looking at a couple hundred for sleeving that cylinder alone. That kind of crack is usually from freezing, so there are likely to be more. Check the heads, too.
Thread Starter
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Parts Nerd Extraordinaire
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,345
Likes: 1,768
From: Western NY
So I got to do some more disassembly, aiming to remove the intake manifold. I removed a dozen or so 9/16 bolts but can't get the darn thing to budge, even with a hammer. Do I need to remove the fan and generator? Do I need to remove the spark plug wire organizers?
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