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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 04:16 PM
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400 head question

OK...so I had to pull the clyinder heads due to a few broken manifold bolts. After cleaning them up, i noticed that the casting numbers on the block don't look like normal casting numbers. There are no letters in them, and there is no ford logo stamped on the head either. So now i'm thinking that I may have an engine that has swapped cylinder heads on it. They do have an M in the upper corner. I just want to make sure I have compatable heads on my motor. The casting on the block of the motor is D7TE-A3B. That should corespond to an 82 400. If not, then someone swapped the whole engine out!!! Anyway, I am considering just buying remanufactured heads so i know they are right.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 06:08 PM
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Lost of readers...no comments? ...ok I was able to get some more info from the block and the heads...here is what I have

Engine Block: D7te-a3b
There is a number plate below that casting number...i think it's a date code. I can't make out what it says though. As I was cleaning up some parts, i discovered a similar plate on the intake manifold. It appears to be the same, but i can't be sure. that number is 2b25.

Cylinder Heads: 2b17
That is the only casting number that I can see. There is an M cast into the corner of each head as well. I think there are supposed to be more numbers, but i'm not seeing them.

Again, I'm trying to determine a few things. First, is this an 82 400ci engine? I think it is, but i want to be sure. Second, i know the engine has been rebuilt. I want to make sure the correct heads were used. Can anyone help me out by giving me more info based on the numbers I provided...or tell me where to look to get additional numbers? Thansk again!
 
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 06:16 PM
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2b25 should equate to February 25th, 1982. As well as 2b17 as February 17th, 1982. Both 351M and 400 heads are the same, so if the heads are removed, then you can just measure the depth of movement the piston goes in one complete travel. 400 should equal 4" The M stands for Michigan casting center. I suspect your engine is the right one for your truck(1982).
 
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 06:28 PM
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ok, so the number on the heads i have (2b17) is a date code. I finally found the casting code...d5ae-a3a. From what I have found, that is the correct head for that engine. Now...I have access to a 78 351C heads in great shape. Will they work ok, or even at all? I'm not sure of the casting code on them.

On a side note...what is the best way to remove the old composit head gasket. It left a really nasty layer of stuff on the engine block. Do i just need to scrape it off, with some gasket remover?
 

Last edited by Timgeorgi; Aug 31, 2006 at 07:17 PM.
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 07:54 PM
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The D7TE is not a casting code, its an engineering number. D7TE refers to an item that was designed in 1977. D = 1970s, 7 is the year in the applicable decade. TE is usually referenced as Truck... which may or may not be correct. An actual casting code is like the ones you posted earlier and is always four characters.

There is no such thing as a 1978 351C, unless they were made in Australia. These aussie heads will increase your compression, but you don't want to just slap them on, your bottom end won't hold together unless its been rebuilt.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 07:59 PM
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Well, here is what I got...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3ARTQ%3AUS%3A1

I asked the guy and he said they were from a 78 engine. He still hasn't gotten back to me with the numbers yet. I was sure they would work when I bid on them, but now i'm concerned. Guess I'll hope for the best at this point,
 
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 08:04 PM
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You bought a set of 351M/400 heads. The easiest way to tell is the M cast in the corner.

Honestly, I would never just put a set of heads on a motor. You just don't. They need to be freshened up.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2006 | 02:22 PM
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All the late model open chambers are similar enough to not worry about it. They will work - just hope they clean up good. The later heads are really good about cracking around the exhaust seats.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2006 | 08:03 PM
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OK...so the guy that I won the heads from backed out of the auction. Where is the best place to get reconditioned or remanufactured heads. I have read that the standard auto repair places get heads that are not reconditioned very well, or have used parts in them. I'm looking for a good price, but good workmanship as well. I have one head I could have rebuilt, but the other one is not no good. Any ideas!?!
 
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Old Sep 2, 2006 | 10:01 PM
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you say you have one head thats good, what is wrong with the other one. Short of a crack( even that can be repaired) any machine shop worth its salt can repair most anything including a broken stud or bolt.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2006 | 11:57 PM
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I killed it. I was attempting to drill out a broken stud and drilled into the water jacket. I was able to get 3 of 4 broken studs out by carefully drilling them out and chasing the threads with a tap. The last one I apparently wasn't centered on the stud. Went off center and into the water jacket of the head. Anyway, at this point i'm thinking i need a new head.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 12:26 AM
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they make solid inserts if there is enough material. just a thought


http://www.locknstitch.com/FT%20pdf%...ad%20Instr.pdf
 

Last edited by Socketman; Sep 3, 2006 at 12:32 AM.
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 12:24 PM
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Just look in your yellow pages for a machine shop and ask around. I wouldn't trust any of the major rebuilders. I bought a set from a major rebuilder and I had to have them milled to fix a casting imperfection that would have never sealed and I had purchased a set of stainless valves to replace the steel two piece ones, then I found out that rather than replacing the guides they just drilled them out and put in bigger valves to compensate. Neat huh?
 
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