Background:

So I found a flathead block that was removed from a vehicle and sat for a number of years. It won't turn over by hand, but before purchasing it I pulled off a head and didn't see any alarming cracks, but the cylinders were filled with wet sludge and other mess. It was a gamble, I know. However, I judge that I can definately get more out of the accessories (heads, water pumps, headers) than I put in to purchasing the block.


Question 1:

Since I never gotten into an engine before, I figured it would be a neat learning experience to see if I can get this engine running with the existing parts (or minimal new parts). I'm not planning on dumping it in a vehicle anytime soon; I just want to see if I can get it running (with out damaging it) in an extremely inexpensive way. I'm hoping I can get away with a new gasket set, valves and not too much more. Is this possible?

The current condition as best I can describe: stuck, sludge in cylinders, no cracks under the head I removed, pics comming later.

Question 2:

I would like to know more about the engine specifics and identify it. It has EAB heads on it, that's about the best I can do with it thus far. It's too dark to get pictures now, but I'm sure someone would be able to tell me what pictures are necessary for identification and where the interesting numbers reside.

 

The only real numbers that will tell you much, unless it's a rebuilt engine is the date code on the block. It is located above the right head at the rear corner of the intake mainifold. It should be stamped in the exposed section as a letter- one or two numbers- and another letter.
See this post https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12164635 for the codes.

 

As far as getting it running without damaging it; probably not. First you need to find out why it won't turn. See the post by Dexter about the broken camshaft... There is no reason to try to get it to turn, except for the purposes of disassembling it more easily. Disassemble it as much as you can, soak stuck parts with whatever concoctions you prefer, salvage as much as you can. Clean it all up, and assess what it will take to make it run. Engines were rarely set out behind the shed in good running condition.

 

True, but hope springs eternal.

 

Theres also a cast in number in the valley at the rear of the block, right on the boss above the rear of the camshaft. It should have an 8BA, OBA, or 1BA there. Haven't seen a true EAB engine, so I don't know if one would find EAB or simply 1BA. Can't sat for sure if they all had that, either.

AS others have already stated, don't expect miracles. There is a chance it was removed years ago from a low mileage car for replacing another engine, and just never done, but I'd guess it was the replaced engine. Do keep in mind, however, it was not uncommon to replace/rebuild engines well before 50,000 miles. Oil and filters were not what they are now. And perhaps the largest contributor to engine wear was the carburetor. Think of all the gasoline that washed down the cylinders and diluted the oil as the vehicle either sat with choke on idling or being driven with choke in colder climates.

 

"Fixing Flatheads will drain your wallet faster than and ex wife ..."

Will runs the Flathead shop in Nor Cal call him .. he's pro when it comes to Flatty info
408-499-4949

my last Flatty build cost over $8,000 ..... and did you know there are brand new NOS french Flat head blocks available too ...

 

The story is that it was removed from a vehicle by a father/son team who was taking said vehicle and turning it into a horrific frankenstein of a rod of some sorts. It was removed, set aside, and not really thought about again. However, I know my money is buying the physical item, not the story.

 

I've heard stories like that and just can't believe them?? What did you spend that much on? If you're building even a stroker with SCAT crank and aluminum heads I don't see how it can get above $5k. Blower motors can get that high, but a complete rebuild just isn't that much more than "regular" engines.

 

I kind of wondered about that as well.

 

Sorry ..this might turn the light on ... used new French flat head block + Ardun heads + blower + using only best parts + using a pro build shop = $$$
----
anybody who uses a "run of the mill" machine shop to do a cheap rebuild on flatty is wasting dollars ..

good pistons and quality parts cost
or will cost more when she comes apart or over heats ...

Flatty Nostaliga costs big dollars

 

I guess I can't speak for others on this forum, but this would be a waste of money for my stock 3/4 ton Marmon Herrington with 4.86:1 gears. So, I will stick to the "run of the mill" machine shop and keep my fingers crossed...

 

I'd like to see a picture of that engine! I've never seen ArDun's, even in poor condition, go for under $10k.

What kind of Studebaker do you have?

 

I have to totally disagree with your statements about a good Flatmotor costing Big Buck and that you need to use a pro build shop - The only pro build motor that I know of in this area was under 6 grand and he's been running it for 20+ years
Either I need to raise my watch hand or you got took.

 

Me either. I suppose there's a SCoT blower and manifold on the engine as well. Oops, there I went. In for a penny, in for a pound.

My BS meter is reading brown on this post from CuzerDog. CD, feel free to post questions, answers, etc. But please don't insult the intelligence of members. In addition, if someone is asking a question about getting an engine running cheaply, that individual is probably not interested in a full blown high performance cost quote. Although rare, it is possible to revive a flathead with a simple ring and gasket job, as it is with any engine. How long it will remain running is anyone's guess.

 

OP here - Can we try to keep this thread focused towards reviving a block instead of arguing over overpriced/owner inflated glamor girls? To put an end ot the argument, a well recommended shop in the area rebuilt my 8RT consisting of new cam, pistons, valves, springs, tanking, cleaning, boring, bearings, painting, as well as removal and reinstallation into the truck for just around $4,500. My stock block and heads were just dandy. It has 2 years and about 2000 miles on it. I obtained this EAB block with the hopes of building my inventory of usable/core parts for when my truck develops a need. Now that I have the block and that it is very complete, I'd like to free it up and see if I can't get her running with out a lot of effort or cost as an educational experience. It is not destined for a vehicle at this time; I just don't want to do anything to the block that will prevent from being a canidate for a proper rebuild in the future.

Anyways, I know I promised pictures, but got home late and it started to rain, so you will have to wait another 16 or so hours. Sorry fellas.

Fridy Night Happy Hour Beer for y'all