I don't see the sensor either. Here is the best pic that I can locate at the moment....the sensor is not labeled but it's in the 9 o'clock position in this photo (far left edge of the frame about half way up....)

Hope this helps.

 

I found two more photos that will help you out.
The first is a look down on top of the engine directly at the HPOP. The fuel bowl has been removed in this pic.

The second photo hows the turbo pedestal and the EBPV solenoid connector (your pedestal is missing that solenoid....)

 

This is an awesome forum!

I couldn't believe someone would just leave a 7.3 on the side of the road either. The air filter and oil on the stick actually don't look bad... Craziest thing was they had even pulled the turbo off and they left it. Just took the electronics and even left their Snap on wrench, sockets and all the bolts?? I am really hoping that whatever made it quit working was in the parts they pulled and that they didn't just give up on it...
honeydew great catch on replacing the map mount with the OCR.
Shake-N-Bake thanks so much for the great pics. I was worried about getting all those wires put in their right places. I sure can't wait to get my motor cleaned up and looking even close to that nice.
On the oil temp sensor would that be the same as the oil pressure sensor? I could not find a temp sensor online and I know it is wide open there and missing from the truck. Also I don't know if it got all full of water or dirt. Should I do some maintenance on it before I try and fire it up?
Lifeisgood I would be interested in the ebpv I may also need a hose and clamp or two but am not to the point quite yet.
Chuckerdownunder The turbo wheel has slight movement left to right maybe little less than a 1/16" total and none in and out. Here is the pic
Any extra advice about what I might check or service before attempting to fire this bad boy up would be greatly appreciated.

 

You have a oil temp sender on the top of the HPO res, and an oil temp sensor on the inside of the HPO res.

They are not the same.

 

No in/out play is good. A little left to right is good as long as its not contacting the housing.
try searching your parts here
Buy 2001 Ford F-350 Super Duty Parts | FordParts.com

Check it first but the EOT sensor looks like (#F65F 10884-AA.) The image is under Electrical,Lighting and Body/Sender Units
The top sensor on the HPOP is the single blade, the one at the back is a two blade



And get them from Clay

Riffraff Diesel Performance Parts: Powerstroke Parts | Ford Diesel Parts | Ford - 99-03 Super Duty 7.3L

 

Well I am pretty excited I started getting some part in and installing but I found a loose wire. It has a ring terminal on one end and the other has an attached nut that can be turned independently of the wire it is about 14" long and red with a black cover. The nut fits onto a stud that can be seen in the first picture at about 2 oclock but I don' know if that is where it is suppose to attach or where the other end goes. Also I seem to be missing something else right next to that stud as there is a bolt hole and it looks like something was mounted there.

 

Thats the intake air heater. You can deleted it all together.

Do a search on AIH or IAH delete...

 

The red wire with the nut attached is for the AIH(Air Intake Heater) the other end would go to the AIH relay that you were missing. You can leave it out if you wish as it doesn't really do anything.

To the right of that on the front of the spider is where the wastegate actuator would mount.

 

Ouch. That wastegate actuator is a pretty pricey little item...

 

You can delete it if you want as well... Order a Turbomaster WG controler and you dont need it. Or you can just tighten the factory one a bit, not perfect but it should work.

Turbomaster is about $125 bucks...

 

If you want to blow down some of that dust and clean er up a bit....you can purchase those cheap blue nitrile gloves that are similar to latex gloves. Put the wrist part of the glove over the holes to your inlet plenum going into your block. Stuff one in the oil holes for your turbo inlet/outlet. Slide one over each of the 42 pin connectors on the drivers side valve cover if they are unplugged. Tie a knot in the wrist of the gloves for the connectors to keep them on. Make sure you don't have any other holes open. I am assuming that the spider and turbo are pulled. Get an air gun and blow that puppy down real good. Open up the fuse holder and blow all the dirt/dust out of that thing too.
You probably want to remove the valve covers and ensure that there is a shim or a quarter under the clips for the under valve cover harness(UVCH) or it is highly likely that it will not run worth a crapola if the connectors are loose. How long was this truck abandoned for? Was it an auction vehicle or are you a dealer/towing facility? I wonder if this truck was stolen or if someone had issues and left and then someone stole parts off of it while it was on the side of the road? Hummmmm?
Dwayne

 

Well I got everything as clean as I could, and put the last of the new parts on a few minutes ago. Tried to fire it up and it turned over but wouldn't start. I pulled the fuel filter and put the key in run and start and its not pumping any fuel. The tank reads a half a tank and the fuel reset button did not change it. I don't know anything about the fuel system on these. Is the pump mechanical? Can I test it without dropping the tank? Any other ideas on where the problem may have originated at? I guess them pulling the injector driver module and glow plug relay make more sense now...

 

Electric pump, under the truck behind the frame... about under the driver's left foot.

You'll want to check your messages.

 

Thanks for the locate. Fuel pump is missing. Also looks like there is possible a fuel filter that goes right there to that would also be missing. Back to the junk yard tomorrow.

 

No pump- that would cause a no-start condition.

Stock there is no filter near the pump. Stock setup is a screen in the in-tank sender and a filter in the valley of the engine.