I am currently looking at a 2007 6.0,at,cc,dually,4wd. The price is fair. I have a 2000 f350 w/7.3, which I am keeping. I AM NOT INTERESTED IN ANY PART OF THE 6.0 VS 7.3 WAR. In this economy I know how stupid that is. But my 2000 is in excellent shape, it has 200k on it and it recently layed down on me in 103 degree heat while attached to the horse trailer 300 miles from home. Turns out the cps wire had been cut by the pulley-yes I know a fluke. I am a surviving cancer patient almost 60 and can not wrench much. The 07 is at a private party. I also realize if you read this forum you are going to hear about problems with the 6.0 as people do not write in with comments about I have a 6.0 and have no troubles. Are there problematic years for 6.0 other than 2003-the first year? Are 2006 and 2007 more reliable? I assume scangauge II is a minimum as I have read several posts, but I am confused about what tests to run. What else should I look for? Prior to the cancer I was a cop for 30 years so I am not afraid to investigate this 2007. Bigger trucks are a buyers market right now. I can not afford the 55 to 65k for a new one or the 2011 and I had ruled out the 6.4.

 

First of all, congrats on being a survivor. I'm pretty sure everyone has a family member that has fought this disease, or at least knows a person that has. Good for you.
As far as not letting go of the 7.3, I still have my 2000 and despite the $$ I'm about to sink into her (12 years is a long time for metal in New England), I would be hard pressed to let her go too.
First year 6.0, like many first year motors (thinking 7.3 oil seal failures) was a bhit rough. If you handle it right and do the correct maintenance, you will be very happy. My buddy has an 06 with 278K on all original engine parts and pieces. We are doing a few things to it over the next couple of weeks, so it will go another 278K . He loves it, and so do many others.
I am sure that you will have more info than you can handle from this forum in no time.
I also would have a tough time looking at a 6.4 motor. Not because it is a poor engine, but because of its fuel mileage short comings.
Good luck to ya, and get ready for the info to come in here.

 

Here's a good checklist another user posted:
ech0sh4y *

Alright well I whipped up a doc real quick that I'm going to take with me. Let me know if this all looks right and if i need to add something:

6.0 Pre-Purchase Check List
with ScanGaugeII

Engine Cold (First Start)

KOEO-
1. FICM Volts (3 different ones)
a. FICM Vehicle Power (Volts) (Should be 12 Volts, should not drop below 10.25 for more than 60 seconds, or 9.0 for 4 seconds. TSB 09-24-03)

TXD: 07E02209CE

RXF: 0462450906CE

RXD: 3010

MTH: 006401000000

NAM: FVP

KO=12.0 LI=14.0 HI=14.0 OR=10.5-15.5

b. FICM Logic Power (Volts) (Should be 12 volts)

TXD: 07E02209CF

RXF: 0462450906CF

RXD: 3010

MTH: 006401000000

NAM: FLP

KO=12.0 LI=13.5 HI=13.5 OR=10.5-15.5

c. FICM Main Power (Volts) (Should be 47-48) Your FMP should never dip below 45. If it does, your FICM is toast and needs repaired or replaced.

TXD: 07E02209D0

RXF: 0462450906D0

RXD: 3010

MTH: 006401000000

NAM: FMP

KO=47 LI=47.5 HI=47.5 OR=40-52 


2. Temps should be similar
a. Engine Coolant Temp (fWT)

b. Engine Oil Temp*
TXD: 07E0221310
RXF: 046245130610
RXD: 3010
MTH: 00090005F060
NAM: EOT

c. Trans Fluid Temp
TXD: 07E1221674
RXF: 046205160674
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000100080000
NAM: TFT

d. Intake Air Temp (IAT)


3. Volts should be 11.X-12.Xv and then drop to 11.Xv and after two minuets back to 13.Xv

Engine at operating temp

1. ECT should be around 186* - 190*F
2. At 65MPH EOT should be =/+ 5* - 8* more than ECT (Delta)
3. Boost (No more than 25 PSI)
TXD: 07E0221440
RXF: 046285140640
RXD: 3010
MTH: 001D0050XXXX
NAM: BST
** Click link to set boost parameters

4. Shut down engine, wait 2-3 seconds then restart.
__________________
~ Brian
* **
Full thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-6-0-a-2.html

If you're not fimilliar with the ScanGauge here's a video of how to put the codes in.
Entering codes on SGII
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eByS3S6iiMY

 

I'd just stick with your 7.3. Too much to worry about on these 6.0s, and they get crappy fuel mileage.

 

He already said he was KEEPING THE 7.3.

 

LOL - well aren't you the helpful one.

My 6.0L is far better than my 7.3L has ever been ..............

 

I gotta agree, my 6.0 puts my 7.3 to shame and at 180,000 no issues!!

 

The op who started this thread said "I AM NOT INTERESTED IN ANY PART OF 6.0 VS 7.3 WAR.....

so to paraphrase his original post......


"I am buying a 6.0L but I want to find out what to look at...."

Which Rusty did a good job of starting.... Other than what he said I would just watch out for heavily modified or heavily tuned trucks.... I am not saying there is anything wrong with mods or tunes.... just a lot of people don't do it right... For example an atlas 80 performance tune on a TTY bolt head gasket..... or just as bad a 12inch lift at 48 inch tires on a stock trans...... the list goes on....

 

Like Wade said a awful lot is riding on maintanance, I have a 2006 with 73K and only problems were alt and shortly after because of alt problem a ficm. Engine has been flawless and delta #s are around 4 degrees hpop#s are same as day it was built. Take care of it and it will take care of you.

2007 is probably the best year that you can buy. Go pick up that scanguage and make sure the guy you are buying the truck from kept up on maint. Rusty has it going on print that out and take it with you. Myself I would NOT purchace a tuned truck period.

 

OKOK, so besides that, I would not get sucked into doing all the reliability mods right away and pay attention to the gauge, I did my first truck all out, oil coolers, dummy plugs, stand pipes Etc Etc. now I see how well my second one is doing never touched and reading some guys on here with 250 plus thousand miles and still going, I will hold off on this one and watch my gauges.

 

I have well over 315,000 miles in 6.0 trucks and not one single problem.

170K in a 2005 F250 that weighed 9900 pounds with a service body that also regularly pulled a 7000+ pound trailer.

140K in a 2005 F250 work truck.

And my new to me 2006 has 98,000 miles and no repairs on the OASIS report. I have only put about 3000 on it so far, but it runs fantastic.

Also, the company I used to work for had a fleet of 26 6.0 trucks. Only one 2004 F350 had issues. Of course, it was also the only one with a tuner, coincidence?

When I left ,all those trucks had at least 125,000+ miles. That's over 3 MILLION trouble free miles.

That's why the 6.0 forum here at FTE is so frustrating. You would think reading every thread there the world was coming to an end with that engine and if you even squinted at it wrong, the head gaskets or EGR were going to blow.

BS.

The 6.0 is a fantastic engine as long as it was taken care of.

Josh

 

Hear - Hear!!!!

 

Only reliability mods I would buy and do is the blue spring, and the coolant filter..... The only other thing I would do is get me a set of guages and learn what each thing does. I got me the SG2... I alternate every day I hit the one button and so watch something else.... that way when something changes you know it.... abd you can address the issue... All the rest of the Reliability mods I am going to let the truck decide when I am going to do it

 

Amen Josh

 

This truck has been setting for sometime now. The man that owned is no longer with us after a prolonged illness and his family is attempting to sell, it along with the 5th wheeler they pulled. I am supposed to drive the 2007 today, but I have not purchased and played with the scan gauge yet, instead I think I will just look it over thoroughly as possible. Then come back later and drive with the scan gauge. I have watched the video on the post and get a little confused, but maybe more easily explained when I have unit in hand. If I played with it hooked on my 7.3 or are these primarily for 6.0. And no I do not think it serves any purpose arguing the 7.3 vs 6.0 as when I am done I will own both.