Looking to filter my coolant and ran across this new model. It seems to be different in its tube size, basic routing, and cost. My question is, why could you not just get any other (half the price) brand, get larger fittings and hoses, route it the same way, and get the same results? Basically, we're just running the coolant through a filter, right? They all look like regular oil filters to me. Is there some issue here that I'm missing?

 

All that's special about the IRP model is that it's a full flow filter in-line with the heater line, while most units are bypass flow from the heater line to the degas bottle. If you figure out what filter the IPR model uses, look up the flow specs on it, and find a filter base with a large enough bore to handle the bigger lines.... yeah, you could make your own full flow filter for a lot less.

The filter's aren't oil filters, they're actual coolant filters. You need to make sure you get a "non-charged" or "non-SCA" filter, because the additives don't play well with Ford Gold in the 6.0L. Baldwin, Napa, and Fleetguard all make filters that work with most of the filter bases sold in 6.0l kits.

 

You hit on what I considered the main issue: the base/filter on "Brand X" would not likely handle the flow from that heater hose and would backup the system. That hose is bigger for a reason.

 

A Napa 4770 filter base with dual 1/2" inputs/outputs will let you run a 1" inlet filter, if you can find one that's not charged that's the largest coolant filter I can think of. They run those on Mack's, so they don't come much bigger.

I think you'd be better off using a 3/4" line to t into the heater line, leading to a NAPA base with a drilled out filter. Keeping the filter setup on a bypass reduces the chance of engine damage if you let it clog. Bypass filters works fine, if you take the time to do a Restore/Restore+ flush when you change out the oil cooler and switch to an ELC coolant, repeat failures aren't common.

 

The IRP people say that the only concern of a clogged filter is no heat as return to the heater is blocked. That seems odd to me, since they claim to filter 100% of the coolant, as long as Max A/C is off. If 100% goes to that filter and it gets clogged, how does the coolant circulate?

 

I guess if all of the above IS true, when you noticed the truck over heating and you suspect that the filter is blocked, just put it on Max A/C, and thus bypass the filter system. Then the truck should cool down. Later, unclog the filter and resume life as scheduled...

 

The heater line comes out of the crossover at the front exit from the heads. The water pump pushes coolant down the heads, then back to the front to go into the crossover then into front cover and into recirculation behind the thermostat. The heater line draws out of the crossover, through the heater core, then back into either the front of the head or the front cover. So the heater line see's "full flow" in that it's always in line with the flow into and out of the heads, but blocking it won't technically stop flow to anything important, at least not any more than the valve that's already on the heater line. The bypass filters shortcut some of the flow down the heater line over to the degas bottle, where it's eventually returned to the front cover by joining in the with flow from the bottom of the radiator.

With the A/C on max the valve closes in the heater line, and a bypass filter flows as much as it can based on the size of the lines and restrictions. Put in 3/4" lines and with max AC the bypass filter will run almost as much as the in-line would normally. I just don't see the point in buying their expensive system when you can get the same result for a third of the price by building your own and running Max AC when it's hot outside. It's not like coolant system trash does the same kind of immediate damage that poor oil filtration causes, running a bypass should be sufficient for a 6.0L. Especially when you consider that the engine didn't even come with a coolant filter to start with.

 

I see you have a Dfuser. Would you get that one again?

 

I got the Dfuser because it's almost exactly what I would have built myself, it's a Baldwin CFB5000 base with pretty standard shutoffs and brass components. When I bought the kit they were selling it for about what I would have been able to source the parts for, so I was willing to loose a little to have it all show up in one box at one time with all the correct parts, and not have to mess with multiple companies shipping me parts and trying to hunt down hardware locally. It's not as flashy as the Sinister or dieselsite kits because it's a stock base you can buy from a thousand different stores, but I don't care if my coolant filter has any bling factor.

 

Yeah, I'd say that'd be pretty important for me as well. I see what you're saying about the filter issue. While 10-20% of the coolant (if that's true) goes through the bypass filter, eventually ALL of the coolant gets through there, so it all gets filtered. If it's hooked up as recommended, is there any downside to having a bypass coolant filter? By that, I mean that the A/C, including Max, heater, etc should all still work like they do now?

 

I can't think of any downsides, if the filter plugs no other flow is affected other than the short-circuit you created.

 

It's on sale for $125, free shipping right now. I think I'll own one before dark.