Coolant filter inline with heater core?
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New User
Joined: Feb 2010
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Coolant filter inline with heater core?
Quick question guys. Would it work ok if I used this filter base:Wix 24019 & Napa 4019 Base and simply cut it in-line with the heater core? Then when you run out of heat, you know you need to change the filter. It has all the fittings included.
Just trying to figure out the cheapest way to get a coolant filter.
Just trying to figure out the cheapest way to get a coolant filter.
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 593
Likes: 1
From: Frankfort, KY
I tee'd it off there and returned the coolant from the filter to a tee in the Degas bottle. This makes it a "Bypass" filter and I think this is how you want to run it. If the filter clogs, you see a little bit of leaking from around the filter, but it does not stop your coolant flow to the rest of the engine.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,993
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From: Bend, OR
Connect a hose where the red arrow is...
Then run that hose to this area to mount your filter set up...
Then you just T into the return line going to the degas bottle...
You can see my water temp sender in there as well. When the temp gauge stops working I change the filter...
Then run that hose to this area to mount your filter set up...
Then you just T into the return line going to the degas bottle...
You can see my water temp sender in there as well. When the temp gauge stops working I change the filter...
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,137
Likes: 13
From: Glendive, MT
If you look at the filter head, the holes under the fittings where the coolant passes through to the filter are only about 3/16" diameter. It would restrict the flow so much your heater would never heat right again.
I would follow Guzzles directions. I check my oil at every fuel stop. While the hood is up, I feel the filter. If it is cool I know there is no flow and the filter is plugged. If it's hot, it's good to go. It is also a good idea to check your coolant at every oil change. If SCA's are low, time for a filter.
I really don't like mounting the temp sender away from the engine. As the filter becomes restricted, heat can be disipated by the filter and hoses giving a false reading to the sender. If you wnat to measure engine temp, keep the sender on the engine.
I would follow Guzzles directions. I check my oil at every fuel stop. While the hood is up, I feel the filter. If it is cool I know there is no flow and the filter is plugged. If it's hot, it's good to go. It is also a good idea to check your coolant at every oil change. If SCA's are low, time for a filter.
I really don't like mounting the temp sender away from the engine. As the filter becomes restricted, heat can be disipated by the filter and hoses giving a false reading to the sender. If you wnat to measure engine temp, keep the sender on the engine.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,993
Likes: 2
From: Bend, OR
If you look at the filter head, the holes under the fittings where the coolant passes through to the filter are only about 3/16" diameter. It would restrict the flow so much your heater would never heat right again.
I would follow Guzzles directions. I check my oil at every fuel stop. While the hood is up, I feel the filter. If it is cool I know there is no flow and the filter is plugged. If it's hot, it's good to go. It is also a good idea to check your coolant at every oil change. If SCA's are low, time for a filter.
I really don't like mounting the temp sender away from the engine. As the filter becomes restricted, heat can be disipated by the filter and hoses giving a false reading to the sender. If you wnat to measure engine temp, keep the sender on the engine.
I would follow Guzzles directions. I check my oil at every fuel stop. While the hood is up, I feel the filter. If it is cool I know there is no flow and the filter is plugged. If it's hot, it's good to go. It is also a good idea to check your coolant at every oil change. If SCA's are low, time for a filter.
I really don't like mounting the temp sender away from the engine. As the filter becomes restricted, heat can be disipated by the filter and hoses giving a false reading to the sender. If you wnat to measure engine temp, keep the sender on the engine.
Same reading as when the sender was in the port shown on the first picture...
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Feb 2010
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If you look at the filter head, the holes under the fittings where the coolant passes through to the filter are only about 3/16" diameter. It would restrict the flow so much your heater would never heat right again.
I would follow Guzzles directions. I check my oil at every fuel stop. While the hood is up, I feel the filter. If it is cool I know there is no flow and the filter is plugged. If it's hot, it's good to go. It is also a good idea to check your coolant at every oil change. If SCA's are low, time for a filter.
I would follow Guzzles directions. I check my oil at every fuel stop. While the hood is up, I feel the filter. If it is cool I know there is no flow and the filter is plugged. If it's hot, it's good to go. It is also a good idea to check your coolant at every oil change. If SCA's are low, time for a filter.
I am switching to a 300,000mile ELC coolant and I an undesided if I should even put in a filter.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 13,144
Likes: 11
From: Rochdale MA
I would do the filter better safe than sorry. Other have done it and been amazed at the amount of crud that the filter catches.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,993
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From: Bend, OR
When I put a filter on the first time it was plugged in less then a week. second one took about a month...
Second motor plugged its first one in about 4 days, second one in about 2 weeks and the next one in three months. Then it went the rest of its life with the same filter...
This used motor I am running now plugged its first one in 1200 miles, new filter when I left bend, and when I got to Prescott AZ it was plugged. Just changed it yesterday.
Put one in, it doesnt matter what type of coolant you are running, the sand is still leaching out of the block.
Second motor plugged its first one in about 4 days, second one in about 2 weeks and the next one in three months. Then it went the rest of its life with the same filter...
This used motor I am running now plugged its first one in 1200 miles, new filter when I left bend, and when I got to Prescott AZ it was plugged. Just changed it yesterday.
Put one in, it doesnt matter what type of coolant you are running, the sand is still leaching out of the block.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 119
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From: Van Wyck SC
Can I get a link to the filter system yall are using ?? Do yall run a anti static additive in your coolant? I was recommended by a machine shop guy i use....He said with out it you build static between the sleeves and it will burn a pin hole thru after time...He did show me a sleeve he had removed from a truck "dont know what kind" the week before... If some of the different items listed above are the additive please forgive me....Thanks MATT
EDIT also when I replaced my heater core last year it had a ground strap added to it .....????to fight electrolisis "sp"?????
EDIT also when I replaced my heater core last year it had a ground strap added to it .....????to fight electrolisis "sp"?????
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,137
Likes: 13
From: Glendive, MT
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 659
Likes: 2
From: Berthoud, CO
I put a coolant filter on mine, lasted for about 6 months I guess, then plugged. Im on my 2nd one, and its doing fine for over a year. I did cut open the first one, and there was a lot of crud in there. I think its a good idea to have a coolant filter on our trucks. All my tractors have them, big rigs have them, etc. What the worst that could happen if there wasnt any sediment in your system......