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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 09:43 AM
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Coolant Filter

Anyone taken their bypass coolant filter and made it full time?

I was thinking about moving the lines on my sinister kit to do just that. My only concern is with plugging and restricting flow, so I'd do it on the heater hoses still like the IPR one.

Just curious if anyone else has done it and what results compared to just bypass filtering...
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 10:27 AM
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I'll admit, I literally just installed mine and haven't even seen what the bypass will do, but flow restriction would be my biggest concern, as well.

Are you having sub-par results with the bypass right now? And by that I should clarify - Are you filtering out enough media to believe that the system is not being effective and that too much is essentially bypassing the bypass?
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 12:52 PM
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It would take over a pound of sediment to plug a coolant filter.

The only true way to go full flow is to plumb inline with the hot side heater hose and eliminate the heater valve so it runs full hot at all times.

Josh
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Bullitt390
It would take over a pound of sediment to plug a coolant filter.

The only true way to go full flow is to plumb inline with the hot side heater hose and eliminate the heater valve so it runs full hot at all times.

Josh
Correct me if I'm wrong Josh but in essence that is still a bypass filter system. The only way too truely go full flow, 100%, is in the radiator return line. There use to be a filter designed for that explicit purpose, I forget the name now, but I would be leary of full flow filters with the amount of water the 6.0 moves. Those return filters, inlet and outlet, were actually the diameter of the return hose.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Bullitt390
It would take over a pound of sediment to plug a coolant filter.

The only true way to go full flow is to plumb inline with the hot side heater hose and eliminate the heater valve so it runs full hot at all times.

Josh
Yeah, I know. If you go in front of the valve like my Sinister is now, and on the return side of the heater that would be full flow, because flow would not be blocked. You would have some bypass when the heater was on, though.

True, not full flow like the radiator hose. But I wouldn't trust that.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by TinMan289
I'll admit, I literally just installed mine and haven't even seen what the bypass will do, but flow restriction would be my biggest concern, as well.

Are you having sub-par results with the bypass right now? And by that I should clarify - Are you filtering out enough media to believe that the system is not being effective and that too much is essentially bypassing the bypass?
Like I said, only would restrict heater core flow.

Not really sub-par, but with out heat on now, you get no real flow through there. So most of the summer is no filtration. It works as is, and gets sediment out, but if we can do better, why not??
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by dlibson
Like I said, only would restrict heater core flow.

Not really sub-par, but with out heat on now, you get no real flow through there. So most of the summer is no filtration. It works as is, and gets sediment out, but if we can do better, why not??
I'm confused -- are you saying you installed the Sinister system post heater flow control valve? As in on the heater core side? Is that the way Sinister suggests installing it?

My XDP filter is prior to the heater valve and that sun-of-gun is hot as soon as the coolant is hot, no matter what I'm doing heater-wise...
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 02:38 PM
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No, it's prior. But if the heater valve is closed, you just don't get much flow through the filter.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by dlibson
No, it's prior. But if the heater valve is closed, you just don't get much flow through the filter.
ok, I follow you. But really, wouldn't the logic be reversed: you get maximum filtration when the heater is off, since that's the only place that particular coolant stream is now flowing? In any case, I've been tending to check the line temp by hand, wondering if that's a way to tell if the filter is clogging. It's always been too hot to do more than a quick touch.

I picked up one of those nifty non-contact thermometers. I think I'll play around with it some and let you know if there's any real difference, temperature-wise with the heater on or off...
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 69cj
Correct me if I'm wrong Josh but in essence that is still a bypass filter system. The only way too truely go full flow, 100%, is in the radiator return line. There use to be a filter designed for that explicit purpose, I forget the name now, but I would be leary of full flow filters with the amount of water the 6.0 moves. Those return filters, inlet and outlet, were actually the diameter of the return hose.
A true full flow filter would be plumbed inline with the upper radiator hose. There are plenty of systems out there that do that, some are even clear to see what's going on.

The heater circuit is actually pretty good as it feeds right off the WP and being 5/8-3/4" has decent volume compared to using the EGR vent line or the small degas line.

Only issue with the heater circuit is having a hot heater core effecting. A/C output.

Josh
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 04:04 PM
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Silly question but why would you need a full flow coolant filter? Once it's clean, it's clean.

Most that I have seen who ran a coolant filter plugged the first one in a month, then the second in about 2 months, then the third never really went anywhere.

Just my 2 cents worth.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by KleetusF250
Silly question but why would you need a full flow coolant filter? Once it's clean, it's clean.

Most that I have seen who ran a coolant filter plugged the first one in a month, then the second in about 2 months, then the third never really went anywhere.

Just my 2 cents worth.
Most get a few specs of something and think their filter is plugged. I have yet to see anyone actually plug a coolant filter to the point it longer functions as a filter.

Josh
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 04:40 PM
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I've never seen a filter actually plugged.

Just curious if anyone has done it?
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Bullitt390
Most get a few specs of something and think their filter is plugged. I have yet to see anyone actually plug a coolant filter to the point it longer functions as a filter.

Josh
I plugged two of them with either casting sand or some type of black grit. The first one in under 500 miles and the 2nd one in less than 1500 miles. Inlet hose hot and filter and outlet hose stone cold. I'd say that that was close enough to plugged.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 69cj
I plugged two of them with either casting sand or some type of black grit. The first one in under 500 miles and the 2nd one in less than 1500 miles. Inlet hose hot and filter and outlet hose stone cold. I'd say that that was close enough to plugged.
So, based on several posts here in this thread, but mainly yours: I'm thinking the whole "change the 1st filter in X months and the 2nd one in Y miles" type concept is baloney...? (well I was thinking that anyway, you just confirmed it)

And what the heck happened to your sig line? Did it go wherever the smileys went for awhile???!
 
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