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Old Aug 5, 2012 | 02:53 PM
  #1  
ManfredVonRichtofen's Avatar
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Should I?

Im thinking about selling my 38s Super Swampers off of my 79 F150 to my friend for I think $1200 PLUS his rims and tires off his F150. My F150 is still in need of repair and a bigger lift cause my 38s nearly rub my F150s body.

Im thinking bout selling for another reason...to buy a lift for my Bronco.

Im thinking about a 6" lift, but I also tow with my Bronco from towing my F150 to Ford 3000 tractoe w/ implement.

What price would a complete lift with all parts be? I know I will need to regear. I dont know what size tire though?

I have a 300 I6 with a ZF5 in my Bronco. I want to keep an fairly om gas mileage. I travel about 18 miles to work one way and 18 miles back. Dont want all my money in gas though but as I know...the lift will hurt gas mileage even with correct gears.



Any advice?
 
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Old Aug 5, 2012 | 03:52 PM
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What gears are in it now? Are they 3.08's that were most common with the 300 or are they 3.55's? Truth be told, with the ZF and the 300 you could feasibly get all the way up to 35's and still be good to go with 3.55's. The 300 achieves peak HP about 300-500 rpm LOWER than the 302 & 351 so you can get away with shorter gearing especially with the 0.74 OD in the ZF.

As for the lift it depends on how you want to achieve it. If it is going to be longer springs all the way around it will be a better quality lift albeit more expensive than add-a-leafs and/or blocks & spacers (which scare me to death, honestly). My Tuff Country suspension lift (which I bought because it has more alignment adjustability than any other lift out there) was about $1700.00 but that was at least six years ago. I also purchased a full set of rear leaf springs when I did the lift so that price is included in that $1700 along with a full set of shocks for the quad-shock front axle.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2012 | 09:27 PM
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I agree with Grey, at 6" of lift I would stay away from blocks and go full spring packs.

35"s should fit good with 6" of lift.

Rough Country does a 6" lift kit with the full leaf spring option for about 800$ not including brake lines (if needed), steering stabilizer, sway bar drop bracket, or longer radius arms which would be much preferred for offroad.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2012 | 09:57 PM
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Ok, went to the Rough Country site and choosed:

Leaf Spring kit ($779.95)
Sway Bar drop bracket ($35.95)
Brake lines ($39.95 + $34.95)
Red shock boots ($6.20)

Shipping ($106.19)
TOTAL: $1003.19



The blocks total would be $686.95
 
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 08:39 PM
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You will be happier in the long run even though its more $$$ now.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 08:51 PM
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True. I wouldn't trust blocks while towing. Wish I could go ahead and order it but they don't have the bill me later sutff. Blah.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2012 | 03:39 AM
  #7  
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Stock is best.

Cheaper and worth more in the resale market, because everyone gets their own opinion of what's a good lift and what's not.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2012 | 05:06 PM
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Everyone gets an opinion as to which vehicle make/model is best too. Lifted or not, the resale market will bear "X" dollars for any vehicle. Just depends on your target buyer.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 03:30 AM
  #9  
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Is that the same "X" as in Ax^2+bx+y=0?
 
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 07:08 AM
  #10  
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Cmon girls. Yall at it again. Lol.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 05:01 PM
  #11  
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Nope... not at all.. and yes the same "x" you referred to in your equation there g_k50. "X" being an unknown to be resolved.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 11:32 PM
  #12  
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You have to be careful because "X" and "x" can both designate different variables, especially in MATLAB, and none of us would want to get our forumlas misunderstood based on our capitalization of our variables or lack of. It's not like anyone here may write in all caps normally and has had points taken off on their tests in differential equations for doing that or anything though.

But anyways I would definitely not get blocks. I only have a 4" lift on mine with BFG All terrains 33" (I don't know the exact tire measurement but they are sold as 33"). At first I didn't want a lifted Bronco, but I absolutely love having one now, but I wouldn't want it any higher.

I think 4"s is the best lift because It's not too high, somewhat "smaller" oversized tires look good on it (keeps the price down and mileage "up" with those tires) and provides more clearance without making it annoying to get in. That's just my opinion though.. Having a 6-8" lift with 35-37" tires would look pretty awesome, but would be a little too much money for me and be a little harder for passengers to get in when I take other people along. Plus I would definitaly need to re-gear then because I still have 3.55 with my 33"s and I have a 302. Re-gearing is very expensive and I don't think I'm capable of doing it myself. I would really like to though because I think I can pull off better mileage if I go with 4.10s, at least that's what I have read. I don't really know for sure though, and wouldn't want to spend over $1000 to find out my mileage decreased from the new gears.....
 
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 06:43 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by g_k50
Stock is best.
But stock height Broncos with little tires look funny.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2012 | 08:25 PM
  #14  
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Well i just got paid a good bit from my job but not alot. I have some bills to pay and to pay off. I was lookin at the rough country suspension block lift. It would be in my price range right now and have enough to pay off my bills until i get paid again and get my check for the recent fire i went on. How hard would it be theb to take off blocks and put on the springs when i get paid again? Would i save money? Any ideas?
 
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Old Sep 1, 2012 | 09:57 PM
  #15  
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IMO if you dont have all the funds to do it the way you want it the first time, just save up til you do.
 
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