Haha yeah... I'd have quite a nice stash of money too if that were the case.

I'm now in the middle of trying to install this keyless entry kit. I have to find the 12v constant wire which says it comes from the ignition harness and is yellow. It looks to me that there are 4 yellow wires coming from that.. so I don't know what is what... Hopefully I can get this done tonight!

 

Sometimes I'm pretty stupid. It didn't matter what yellow wire was cut, they all had constant 12v and thats all I needed. Anyways, finally got it installed and its SUPER awesome. I've been needing this for a few years.

I got the rear window to work with the trunk button too which I think is magical. Pretty much my truck should be another character in the Avengers 2 movie. I had some trouble initially but that's because a got a bad relay out of the box. I'll post a video of the window when I get a chance so everyone can be jealous.

 

Do you have it set up so you hold the trunk button or is it press once for down press again for up?

 

Hhahahahahah oh man... that's real comedy right there (reps sent). But seriously, you got to do a little write up on how you did it.

 

Haha yeah I'm pretty sure my truck will be in the movie (okay probably not).

I will do a little write up too when I get the chance. I'll probably have it up Sunday. I took some pictures but not a lot because I get too involved with what I'm doing sometimes and forget to take pictures! I'll have something up though soon on how to do it.

Oh and Gruesome, its only roll down and you have to hold the button. With the kit I got, I dont think it would be reasonably possible to have it be a button press to to roll down. It's still super handy though.

 

That's still pretty darn cool. Especially if you're out with the old lady carrying her massive amount of shoes and need to roll the window down... Right?

 

Haha yeah, she's not too old yet, going to be 23 next week. I think she has too many shoes already though. She always wants more boots but she doesn't even wear 7-8 of the pairs she has!

Anyways I'll post up a quick how-to tomorrow with a video! I have to run off to work now and I need to get food before or I'll be grumpy all day!

 

Nice to see another XL bronco on here

 

Yeah I have grown to like my XL.. even though now I'm converting it to Eddie Bauer.. I am torn weather to keep the original "Bronco XL" emblems or to change them... I like saying that my bronco is an XL, but I want to convert it fully to an Eddie Bauer too! I'll keep the XL for now though even though I got the other emblems in.

I finally got rid of that HORRIBLE squeal noise from my front drivers tire too!! (At least for the past two days)

I decided to tackle taking off my rotor and checking the wheel seals. Taking everything off went smoothly.. a little too smoothly too. The bearing lock nuts were not even hand tight. I didn't even need the castle nut to take them off, they just freely spun right out. My wheel bearings were replaced about 1 1/2 years ago and the outer bearing still seemed great. I hope I repacked it right I never have done it before but it seems good now. I also didn't take out the inner wheel bearing because I know its fairly new, and I didn't have a new wheel seal to put back (because I wasn't aware I would have to take out the old seal and replace it to get to the bearing and I already had everything apart.)

Anyways, the wheel seal (both inner and outer) were perfectly fine, but they were covered in CRAP! I wiped everything off really good, cleaned them both up, and shoved tons of wheel bearing grease around them. After I put everything back together, the horrible squeal is FINALLY gone!

One not so good note though is that the castle nut I bought didn't properly fit around the bearing nuts. I could only line up 3 of the 4 ridges on the nut and even doing that was hard. It seemed to be off by barely 1/2cm or so, but enough where I couldn't get a good hold. I managed to get my torque wrench to click at the proper specs for both nuts, but am a little unsure why it wouldn't line up. I know its the proper size for my axle.

Hopefully this doesn't backfire on me, but as of now it seems great! I'm sure they are better now since the lock nuts are actually torqued down instead of loose.

 

Hey Bubba check this video out. It explains pretty good how to pack bearings by hand.

When I did my disks and bearings I packed one wrong and my neighbor made me remove everything and re-pack them. I'm glad he did or I could have wasted a good Timkin bearing... BTW, I recommend 2 pairs of glove for each hand. That way you have a clean pair right away and you don't have to wait for your sweaty hands to dry for another pair.

EDIT: I forgot to mention, skip to about 2:37 to see the bearing packing. The first bit is him removing the disc and bearing stuff.

 

Thanks Dylan! Yeah I think I did mine right then. I put grease in the palm of my hand and pressed it a whole bunch from that side. There was tons of grease everywhere and it was dark so it was kinda hard to see it come out the other side but it should be good!

I went to go to the post office today to pick up some door trim and my truck stalled right outside there post office parking lot! I messed around with it with my neighbor a while (luckly he was right there, we both live about 10 miles out of town) and then someone came to tow my truck to the local O'reillys!

It just wouldn't start, but after I got to O'reilly's, it started fine over and over so it seems fine now. I don't really know what's causing this, but it has happened a few times this year, but never gave me as much trouble as it did today.

The fuel pump I have is about 2 years old so it pretty new, the fuel filter is maybe 6-8 months old. I was thinking the ignition coil, but it had spark when I tested it. It may be crappy wiring to the coil though so it works intermittently. Hopefully that's just it because I can replace wiring easily and it's cheap!

 

If you REALLY want to pack a bearing and keep the grease in the BEARING and OFF your hands
OEM/Bearing packer (25073) | Bearing Packer | AutoZone.com

And video
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/n...e=1&p=13325124

 

I think the video is messed up. It's a link to an FTE New Reply page.

Anyways, no problem Bubba. It's messy but it works well. As for the no starting issue I would check the connections at the coil as well. If the little female slip connectors are loose that can cause havoc... When you were having this issue were all the electrical working? I had a problem not 2 days ago when I went to O'reillys for a carb rebuild kit for my VW and the bronco wouldn't start. No lights, no radio... And of course all my tools were at home with the VW so all I had was a flashlight. I went and banged on the battery cables to make sure they were tight, then to the solenoid, the cables were tight, then I thought "Oh my ground wire!" I banged on that and it worked. I think it's prone to corrosion so I need to check it every now and again.

 

Yeah all the electronics were working fine when I was having the issues, it just kept cranking and didn't want to start.

I'm wondering if it is the TFI module maybe. I don't know anything about that but read some recent things about those failing. I hope they aren't expensive if that is the problem!

 

Bubba get some heatshrink and get under the truck and to the starter. Clean every connector there, then slip out the small female one, tighten it up with some pliers, then use the heatshrink over it after you reconnect it. That's the one that usually causes the no start condition when it gets dirty or loose. Of course a failing MLPS can also cause this (suddendly the truck "isn't" in Park, so you can't start it), but it's a rare occurrence but it happens, a quick "get me home" fix in that case can be trying to start the truck in Neutral, or placing it in neutral and rocking it slightly to the front and rear.

On Edit: As I wrote this I didn't know the engine was turning when you tried to start it, what I described works for situations where the engine isn't turning.