Alright, making these brackets for the door lock actuators is turning out to be extremely frustrating!!

I can't use ones in the junk yard because I don't have a cordless drill to get out the rivets, and the ones I'm making aren't holding the motor too well. I think I can manage something tomorrow, but I've had enough frustrations for tonight! I didn't realize the actuators wouldn't really work if BOTH weren't plugged in either. I couldn't get the one to unlock the passenger side door, it only locked, and didn't always work, and seemed really weak. I was having trouble with both actuators when plugging them in on the passenger side and was about to give up, but then I decided to plug both in for both doors at the same time, and both of the actuators worked flawlessly (while sitting on my seat, I don't have them installed yet).

This leads me to a question though. Does anyone know if the window motors will NOT work if BOTH aren't plugged in either? I know the switch for the passenger window is working because I tested it in place where the door lock switch would go (I kinda shoved it in the best I could and it was giving the actuators power), but it will not move the window motor, and neither will the driver side window switch. The power mirrors work, I got the door locks to work (when both plugged in), but I can't get the passenger side window to move. I have not yet received the drivers side regulator/motor, so I can't test if I need both plugged in, but I plugged the motor/regulator in on both the driver's side and passenger side to test and it will not move with any switch. This is turning out to be a really big job, but once it's done I'll be super happy. I really hope the window motor works though... at least I know I can get 2 out of 3 things to work!!

Edit: A sudden stroke of genius came over me and I realized that you need the vehicle on before the windows will roll up or down..... So, I will test that out tomorrow with the truck running to see if I can get the regulator/motor to move... I don't think I'll have any problems.

 

You don't exactly need the truck on, but the key in the ON position, or the ACC (the one were you turn the key one position CCW from the OFF position).

 

Okay, so I finally got everything installed and working! Its super convenient having power options opposed to manual. I now need a keyless entry system though. I would really like the OEM keyless remote, but don't think I could get one of those remotes to work with an aftermarket keyless entry system. We'll see though once I buy a system and install it.

Here are some pictures of my progress of the installation of everything!

Here's a door lock actuator in the bracket I made. I used a nail and bent it to keep it in place in the bracket.... its very sturdy and since no one will ever look at it, I don't think the looks matter much!


The new passenger side regulator/motor before installation:


Drilling out the rivets from the manual regulator:


Driver's side rivets needing to be drilled out:


This rivet needed to be drilled out too to give enough room pull out the regulator:


once the rivets are out, the top of the regulator just slides off the window bracket, and the new one slides right on:


Here is the passenger side all complete:


Driver's side after painting the door panel (it used to be red):


I didn't have any other paint for the fabric on the panel so it came out a little different color.. plus its kind of "crunchy" but its not too bad. I may eventually replace the panel with an actual tan one if it bothers me too much, but right now I'm satisfied with it.

I even got matching XLT trim for the dash!


Also, I recently purchased a ScangaugeII. It's a code reader and has a whole bunch of different gauges. It can display four gauges at once and the gauges include current mpg, average trip mpg, mph, coolant temperature, current horsepower, battery voltage, throttle position sensor, if its in open/closed loop, and a bunch more stuff. Plus, it reads and clears engine codes which is super handy. Unfortunately, you'll need a 1996 Bronco to have one since it requires an OBDII connection port.



My CEL came on just yesterday and the Scangauge was there to tell me what it was so it's super useful! However, I didn't quite fix the problem yet.. I think I just can't plug in the 4th cylinder spark plug wire hard enough because that cylinder is misfiring (code p0304). When I messed with the wire and tried to plug it in harder, the misfiring went away, but came back later during the drive into town. I never got the wire to 'snap' on the plug so I'm hoping I can do that when I wake up.

Alright one more thing, I took a quick video of the power options working so here it is!! And yes, I do have hairy arms and hands, I'm a man!

 

Grab the boot of the sparkplug cable with some pliers and squeeze it some. It will make it tight enough and it won't fail again.

 

looks good. I'll have to check the video out in a little while, I am on my phone and it won't play videos off photo bucket.

 

Wow those windows move pretty dang quick. It looks like it was like that from factor too, nice job.

 

Thank Dylan! Yeah I usually don't like aftermarket accessory things in my truck, so I wanted it to mirror the factory. The only thing that's not factory from my install is I didn't take out my dash to run the wiring from the driver's side door to the passenger side. I just secured it up under the dash instead, which I think is a way better idea.

Anyways, I did have more trouble with the misfiring the past few days... but upon closer inspection I realized exactly what it was...

Apparently spark plug wire ends don't like to be resting against the headers for some reason! They think it's too hot and will just melt away the boot ends. Jeez, how LAZY of those wires! (Or MAYBE stupid of me to not secure them out of the way...... probably not that though.)

Anywas, I ruined the #4 cylinder MSD 8.5mm superconductor wire... and since those wires have straight boot ends, its pretty hard to keep them from resting against part of my headers. So, I went to the Ford Dealer and picked up some Ford Racing wires. They are 9mm and have 45 degree boot ends so they won't touch the headers. Unfortunately, they only had black in stock (I wanted red!) but they took care of my problem!

I don't really know what wire is better, I've heard Ford Racing wires are better, then others say MSD. I originally went with the MSD because I didn't want to wait to order the Ford ones online. They (MSD) were about $90 though, and the Ford Racing ones I got today were $50. It's been about 3 or 4 years since I put them in so I suppose it's a nice early partial tune up. I don't know how often changing the wires/cap and rotor/ ignition coil and stuff is recommended though, but oh well.

 

Aw that sucks, those are a lot of money. If you want red why not tape off the boots and paint them Hopefully they don't give you any other trouble.

 

I love that scangauge you've tucked in the dash there. Makes me wish I had a 96.

Power options are a great thing to have when you can make it look factory.

 

I don't think I'll be painting my wires.. the paint would probably fade or come off eventually so I'll just keep them the way they are now.

I love the power options, but if I couldn't have made them like the factory, I don't think I would want them. I'm glad I have them working like the factory though! The scangauge is super useful too, I'm glad I have the 96 for that! It spotted another problem today... thanks to Audio Express... I knew I shouldn't have had them touch anything but they were all ready to work on it...

 

What was the problem?

 

Well I made another thread about the problem because it was kind of a lot to put in one post. Basically my alternator is not charging the battery now and it happened after Audio Express put in the new stereo.. so I have to look at the wiring, I didn't think the wiring for the stereo would have anything to do with the alternator though. With the stereo unplugged completely, it still discharges too.... I hope I can figure something out before work today in the next hour.

 

Well good luck. I will take a peek at the other thread. I am ok at stereo related stuff. Battery drains aren't easy for me

 

So I had some time today and finally got my stereo setup mostly how I wanted it. I bought a Kenwood unit that is rear view camera capable so I went to Fry's electronics and bought a cheap rear view camera.

I got all the wiring done today, I just ran it through the shift lever hole under the chassis along the frame all the way back to the camera. I never thought my Bronco would be so fancy with all these power options now.

I went from having manual doors/windows etc, NO cup holders, no mirrors on the visors, basically no extra options at all to having all new power options and seats and everything! It feels so luxurious. I think the only other interior modification I want to do is add carpet. I really like the usefulness of vinyl flooring.. but it really does look kinda.. cheap I suppose. I think carpet looks so much better, even though its a bit of a hassle to clean..

Now I think I may be looking at engine modifications as my next journey for this Bronco.... I'm just not very well versed with the engine to know exactly what I should do next. I'm just looking at picking up some more HP and efficiency.

 

You are probably about as well versed in engine mods as i am But i know ported and polished heads/intake is on the list for hp mods for people so i will toss that in. A chip mod might work too, some people use those. Performance parts such as MSD wires and dizzy parts help too.