Huh, good piece of info on the fuel filter, appreciate it. I'd only seen that in pictures.

I've been to a few score 300's trying to get mine running in junk yards. from one in a '62 pickup up through the 90's. I'd only ever seen the screwed into the carb filter, never that screwed in adaptor. Makes sense, if a 40yo vehicle is at a salvage yard odds are the last owner was a DIY of various skill levels.

 

Do a Image search with Motorcraft FG-44-B, and it should show you some pictures.

Fuel Filters: 1973-1982 300-6:

Motorcraft: FG-44-A: Ford #: D3FZ-9155-A: Filter and two clamps only. Does not include the fuel Hose.

Motorcraft: FG-44-B: Ford #: D3FZ-9155-B: Includes Filter, four clamps, and two precut fuel hoses.

 

You're good. I'd seen it installed in pictures, just never in person. There's plenty of stations pushing 15% ethanol here. I wonder if a lot of the hose setups were ditched chasing vapor lock problems?

 

Thanks to each of you.

Went out first thing today. Got in the truck, it started almost immediately. While allowing it to warm up for a minute, it died and was very hard to restart.

After a little more warm up, it starts and runs fine.

Thanks again.

 

When I take off the air filter assembly and look at the carb, if the choke isn't functioning properly will I be able to do anything to correct it? Is there even a chance it is sticking and needs WD40 or something simple like that?

Thank-you very much.

 

Use carb cleaner to clean the choke plate and around the airhorn. It has lubricants in the cleaner. WD40 will just burn off and go away, and will not cut the grime. Infact it might add to it.

There are several things you can do to correct a malfunctioning choke.

1) When the engine is cold and has not been started for the day, the choke plate should be 3/4 of the way closed. When you step on the accelerator pedal, the choke plate should close fully across the air horn of the carb. If it does not, then you will have to adjust the choke housing if possible or replace it.

2) When the engine is warmed up, the choke plate should open all the way up and be verticle in the air horn. Some carbs need you to kick down the choke to open it up during warm up. To kick down the choke and decrease the fast idle, press the accelerator pedal down 1/4 to 1/2.

If it's sticky, then use carb cleaner.

If the choke plate refuses to open all the way, even with sufficiant cleaning then adjustment or replacement of the choke housing; repair of the choke stove and the tubes going to the choke stove; and/or repair of the electrical wire or electrical source going to the choke housing may need to be done. There is also a choke pull off diaphram that may need to be replaced, that you can test with a vacuum pump, or other vacuum source.

 

^^^ Someone REP THE MAN! Please! ^^^ I can't.

I didn't know that the 80 to 82 had different filters like that. Just something else to learn.

So let's see, 1980 had the one-off electrical wiring differences, 80 to 82 has different fuel filters, 80 and 81 has the Swiss-cheese frames, I think the 80 to 82's are the ones with kingpins up front, then there were the V6's and the 255's that were around 81-83... hmm.

Maybe we need to compile all of this information into a thread for a sticky? Year differences for the 80 to 86s?

EDIT:

Here's that inline-filter setup with the pre-cut hoses.



Also, good advice on the WD40! Used to use it cleaning the guns until I learned the hard way that it freezes and turn into sludge inside, gumming up and sticking up the actions. I doubt it'll readily do it on a motor, but there's always the possibility.

WD40 is an rust-breaking liquid, not a lubricant.

 

Thanks for your kind words... Also thanks for the picture. That's the fuel filter exactly.

------------------

As for differences in 1980-1986. It would require a book to be written. There are a lot of changes to parts. Even mid-year.

Things off the top of my head though...

1) Air filter and housing 300-6 engine: 1980-1981/2 / 1982/3-1986
2) Intermediate steering shaft 1980-1981/ mid year change 81. 1982-1986
3) Rag joint 1980/1981 / Part of the intermediate steering shaft 1982-1986
4) Fuel tanks and sending units 1980-1984 / 1985-1986
5) Door panels and slide locks 1980-1981 / Door Panels with conventional locks: 1981-1986
6) Heater or HVAC control panels: 1980-1982 / 1983-1984 / 1985-1986 also dependant on engine and if equipped with dual tanks or not... Also the cables that attach are different.

Too much to list here. Don't want to hijack this guys thread. Make a new thread, and I'll contribute what I know to it.

 

Thank-you.

 

IIRC there are 54 different variants of the flexible ducting & mounting flange (that connect the air cleaner snorkel to the radiator support) in the 1980/89 light truck master parts catalog.

Fifty-four, I kid you not.

Only some trucks had swiss-cheese frames, I forget the cutoff dates and models to which it applied.

Yeah, man, it'd be a book....

 

I wanted to post the outcome of my starting/running problem.

I took it to a local tech that has a good reputation. He also thought it seemed like a carb/choke issue. He cleaned and did adjustments to the carb and choke. The truck still cut off, for him, when warmed up. It always seemed to run fine for me when warm, but I don't drive it much. He said the carb/choke needed to be eliminated as a possible cause anyway.

I guess I now have a professionally cleaned/adjusted carb and choke, even though that wasn't the problem.

Then he ran tests and found the ignition module was bad. He cleaned all the ignition connections and replaced the module. He kept the truck for ten days and started and drove it several times. He says it is now fixed.

Could be that me saying it ran great when warm threw me and you all off about the cause of the problem.

Thanks to each of you for trying to help.

 

Glad you got it fixed!

Yeah, a bad ignition module usually cuts out when warm.

No worries though!