Delay Wiper Switch Conversion
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From: Connecticut
Delay Wiper Switch Conversion
In my ultimate wisdom, I decided that replacing all the steering, ball-joints, u-joints and bushings in the front of the truck wasnt enough work, so I would upgrade the wiper switch too. I attempted to go from the Off-Low-High wiper switch to one with a delay i bought from Bronco Graveyard:
Wiper Switch With Delay, 1980-91
When I connected it up, the most I could get was about 1/4 of arm movement when the switch was turned 100% clockwise. One stop over in the counter-clockwise direction it would complete the other 3/4ths and return to the part position. If the ground is removed, that same on position will operate just fine (not sure if this is High or Low). I connected the old switch back up, and it worked just fine.
Is there some special step I missed outside of a unplug / plug / ground, or did I get a bum switch?
Wiper Switch With Delay, 1980-91
When I connected it up, the most I could get was about 1/4 of arm movement when the switch was turned 100% clockwise. One stop over in the counter-clockwise direction it would complete the other 3/4ths and return to the part position. If the ground is removed, that same on position will operate just fine (not sure if this is High or Low). I connected the old switch back up, and it worked just fine.
Is there some special step I missed outside of a unplug / plug / ground, or did I get a bum switch?
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From: Virginia
On my 89, the long smooth rotation to the left is the delay part of the operation.
Is this some sort of aftermarket type delay switch? I thought the factory delay switch had a box that went with it that had the delay electronics in it. If this is exact replica of the factory switch, I don't see the box.
Is this some sort of aftermarket type delay switch? I thought the factory delay switch had a box that went with it that had the delay electronics in it. If this is exact replica of the factory switch, I don't see the box.
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Senior User
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From: Connecticut
There is a long smooth portion of the switch, but the wipers stay put in that portion of the rotation.
Where does the governor box connect to? I didn't notice any un-connected terminals behind there.
What is the function of the governor box? I did notice that when Im in the delay portion, I can hear the bi-metalic strip clicking on and off.
Where does the governor box connect to? I didn't notice any un-connected terminals behind there.
What is the function of the governor box? I did notice that when Im in the delay portion, I can hear the bi-metalic strip clicking on and off.
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Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Yup.
Read, and thou shalt become informed.
It's in the sticky at the top (probably multiple times), e.g.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...er-switch.html
Read, and thou shalt become informed.
It's in the sticky at the top (probably multiple times), e.g.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...er-switch.html
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
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Likes: 16
From: Lost
Without the governor, the switch is pretty useless. Governor has 2 plugs on it. 1 goes into the wiper switch, and the other is for the plug that *used* to go into the standard wiper switch.
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Post Fiend
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I still state it sounds like that's what he did though.
If he used an aftermarket switch, who can tell if the plugs have the correct idiot proof tabs/keys or not?
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From: Connecticut
The fact that I paid $50 for this switch for some reason lead me to believe (incorrectly) that I would be able to just plug this in and go with no additional steps. Additionally, that I was able to just plug it directly into the harness seemed to confirm that thought.
After reading this last night, and looking at some pictures here, I noticed a triangular key that my 2-speed switch didn't have. After pulling the new switch out, and looking at it closely, you can see where the key was broken off, allowing me to plug it in when I shouldn't have been able to.
Other than feeling stupid for buying a $50 switch new, and still needing a new$130 part to make it work, rather than just getting both used for $30, the problem is now solved. thanks for everyones help.
After reading this last night, and looking at some pictures here, I noticed a triangular key that my 2-speed switch didn't have. After pulling the new switch out, and looking at it closely, you can see where the key was broken off, allowing me to plug it in when I shouldn't have been able to.
Other than feeling stupid for buying a $50 switch new, and still needing a new$130 part to make it work, rather than just getting both used for $30, the problem is now solved. thanks for everyones help.
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