Slipping Trans
The shift points are drawn out, not slipping.This is why you still have average tranny temps. If the tranny is slipping you would have much higher than average temps.
You can advance the TPS a little then road test. Or use a volt meter then road test. Either way play with the TPS and see what happens.
The shift points are drawn out, not slipping.This is why you still have average tranny temps. If the tranny is slipping you would have much higher than average temps.
You can advance the TPS a little then road test. Or use a volt meter then road test. Either way play with the TPS and see what happens.
with your meter,check to make sure your getting 5 volts at the orange/white wire using the ground wire at the tps,the black/white wire.wiggle the wires around while testing to see if the voltage drops out.if so one of the wires is bad.the article says this is common due to the vibration of the diesel.
if your not getting 5 volts between these wires,then use the negative terminal on a battery and test the tps' orange/white wire between direct ground.if you get 5 volts then,then wiggle the wires to see if its the hot wire from the ecm.if it stays at 5 volts while wiggling wires,then run a new ground wire to the tps,or trace out and replace the stock ground wire.
you can turn the key off,set your meter to ohms to read resistance between ground terminal of battery and the black/white wire.ideally you'd want 0 ohms,but perhaps a little bit is expected here? i never checked mine to see.probably should.the article doesn't give anything for acceptable resistance value here.probably because there shouldn't be any ideally.
since it's acting up,and giving late shifts only sometimes,then i bet this is where you'll find the problem (if the sensor is in fact 100% of course.)
during these tests,post each result please.
here's a cool pic to help you run all 3 new wires to the tps from the main harness if need be:
so you'd want to make sure,if you do find an issue with the ground @ the TPS.that the main harness at pin 15 is getting a no resistance value ground too,or all the sensors and solenoids could play tricks on ya.
thats if im not misunderstanding the diagram,and these ecm pins are just for this aftermarket controller.
i should have a stock e40d main harness pin pic on file really.
catch the failing converter now,before she takes out the packs,and who knows what else,and you'll probably be good to go.perhaps toss an aux filter in line for a bit,for good measure.thats what id do if i experienced those symptoms.fortunately,i was able to replace the failure prone e40d converter with a good one from racerx before i run into the issue.




I guess its a 60/40 toss, My fluid is super clean I hate to spend 1200.00 on rebuilding something that doesnt need but Id also hate to loose a 500.00 converter too I found Ford doesnt recommend Mercron V or dual purpose Mercron fluid only Mercron II or dexron II or IIe and I have M V dual purpose in mine..But any way I'm going to yank and do a converter and Valve body upgrades change out the fluid and filter cross my fingers.
Sorry about the hijack...
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
with your meter,check to make sure your getting 5 volts at the orange/white wire using the ground wire at the tps,the black/white wire.wiggle the wires around while testing to see if the voltage drops out.if so one of the wires is bad.the article says this is common due to the vibration of the diesel.
if your not getting 5 volts between these wires,then use the negative terminal on a battery and test the tps' orange/white wire between direct ground.if you get 5 volts then,then wiggle the wires to see if its the hot wire from the ecm.if it stays at 5 volts while wiggling wires,then run a new ground wire to the tps,or trace out and replace the stock ground wire.
you can turn the key off,set your meter to ohms to read resistance between ground terminal of battery and the black/white wire.ideally you'd want 0 ohms,but perhaps a little bit is expected here? i never checked mine to see.probably should.the article doesn't give anything for acceptable resistance value here.probably because there shouldn't be any ideally.
since it's acting up,and giving late shifts only sometimes,then i bet this is where you'll find the problem (if the sensor is in fact 100% of course.)
during these tests,post each result please.
here's a cool pic to help you run all 3 new wires to the tps from the main harness if need be:
so you'd want to make sure,if you do find an issue with the ground @ the TPS.that the main harness at pin 15 is getting a no resistance value ground too,or all the sensors and solenoids could play tricks on ya.
thats if im not misunderstanding the diagram,and these ecm pins are just for this aftermarket controller.
i should have a stock e40d main harness pin pic on file really.
5VDC @ o/w wire using ground @ TPS - 5.00 VDC
same results when going from o/w wire to the neg bat post.
ohm the ground circuit of tps - .51 ohms using 20K ohm scale on my DVOM.
B- to the sig wire on tps = .99vdc @ idle & 3.87VDC @ WOT. (sweep is good)
found something kind of odd though. when doing the ohm test i had the key off obviously, then once i got done ohming it out it flipped my meter to the vdc setting and got a reading of .02VDC KOEO on the ground circuit of the TPS.
that said,your TPS settings are still incorrect.my trans would hate those settings.i would probably hate them more lol! in fact iv tried them,because there has been a lot of incorrect setting values posted (because of the bulletin before the revived one) and the trans acted like a turd there.she loves the 1.2V idle/4V WOT.
that said,your TPS settings are still incorrect.my trans would hate those settings.i would probably hate them more lol! in fact iv tried them,because there has been a lot of incorrect setting values posted (because of the bulletin before the revived one) and the trans acted like a turd there.she loves the 1.2V idle/4V WOT.
at those settings what rpm does your truck upshift at during normal, civilized acceleration?









I just hope all that fixes it.