heres another pic of steering, and what i was talkin about moving drag link to bottom of pitman arm?http://i1265.photobucket.com/albums/...4truck0003.jpg

 

2x with hasteranger.

Yep. I think most of the issue is with the length and angle of the drag link. You'll have to cut, drill, and re-tap and then install it from the underside.... I'd still add a steering dampener.

 

Yah Ill just order a ballisitic joint and drill the pitman arm out to 5/8. If the hole is to big Ill get a new pitman arm. Hopefully the ballistic joint has the same threads has the chevy rod ends? Then move it to the bottom of pitman arm. You want the drag link as flat has possible correct?

 

pitman's aren't that expensive, I'd just get another one and ream it from the opposite direction. Not sure what box you are running, but you could even go with a couple inches of drop on one if you can find it.

 

I wonder if I could just ream it from opposite sides. Ill just get a new arm and ream it from the bottom. Thanks for all the helps guys!

 

The steering box is the manual box that came with the power assist. the truck is manual steer for now. Then I will upgrade to the 78/79 power steering maybe this winter we will see.

 

Ok.. the 78/79 box for sure has aftermarket drop arms available for it, and the F150 arms will fit it as well, and it seems like a lot of people use the straight (when looking down from the top) F150 arm compared to the curve F250 one when they go to high steer.

 

I think most of your bump steer is coming from the fact that your drag link is longer than your track bar. So when your passenger tire moves up or down it effects your drag link first (also more since it has a longer radius from the pitman arm to the end than the track bar since they both start at essentially the same place and the track bar is shorter and terminates sooner than the drag link, think of a swing at a playground. The seat of the swing is further from the point of rotation than a link of chain halfway down. This means that if the swing seat moves say a 45 degree angle the link of chain also moves 45 degrees but it has traveled less distance, your track bar is traveling less distance than the end of your drag link, when the suspension is moving up and down, this can have a pronounced effect on bump steer.) Most high steer kits I have seen are on trucks that are running leaf springs and they don't have this problem since the leafs are made to not move laterally. The reason your truck has a track bar is because it's on coils. I know that old bronco guys deal with this all the time. I have seen some kits that relocate the drag link end at approximately the same point as the track bar (if they are the same length then you would theoretically get no bump steer)

If you have an oxy/acytl torch you can heat the stock arm and bend it, they are forged so it won't hurt them, also if you drop it to the bottom that will gain an extra inch atleast, If you drop the pitman arm or get a drop arm you will probably have to shorten the drag link as well.

Also I have a manual box in my 73 and power steering in my 78 and I can tell you it is night and day, it would be well worth the effort to upgrade. Also try and add a steering stabilizer like HIO Silver stated, it will make a difference especially at speed if you are using a manual box for now. If you ever go to powersteering you can keep the stabilizer as nothing you change should involve the stabilizer.

 

Well guys I got it, I moved the drag link down to the bottom of pitman arm. I checked my toe since its all new front end parts it was 3/4 inch toe out! So I got it to about 1/16 to 1/8 inch toed in, Man what a difference it drives like a new truck! I THANK YOU guys all for all the help and advice! I feel kind of stupid for not checking the toe sooner.

 

Edited .... I see you fixed it now .... erase that post of mine!