I have some opinions about the trac bar on my 2004 f250 and I would like to see what everyone else has to say about it. I only think that I know what it is for and that is to hold the front end from moving side to side. My problem with this comes into play whenever lifts are installed. As long as factory suspension is untouched, the angle of the trac bar isnt very steep at all and normal driving shouldnt pose any kind of problem. I lifted my truck with the fabtech spring hanger kit 3.5" and also installed a adjustable trac bar. No new brackets were installed for the trac bar. Im not sure who, but there is a lift company out there who sells a trac bar relocator that goes on the bottom end of the bar and then the bracket bolts up where the bar used too, actually increasing the angle of the trac bar. The problem that I have is when my suspension compresses. I swear that it seems like I can feel the axel moving frome side to side. It makes the truck seem like it is drifting all over the place. I think that fabtech should have sold the relocating bracket that bolts to the frame, dropping the top of the bar back to the factory angle with the kit instead of reccommending a adjustable trac bar. But that isnt really the main issue I have with the factory set up. The trac bar is a rigid link that goes from the drivers side frame rail to the passenger side axle in the front. Even when stock, if the suspension is compressed then force is applied to the trac bar pushing the front end twards the passenger side of the vechicle putting stress on just darn near everything downstream of the transfer case. Just opposite when the suspension is extended. Have Trac bars always been used on straight axle 4x4's? I dont remember, I could have had them on other trucks, just didnt pay any attention to them. Are the spring hangers not strong enough to hold the axle from moving? I guess I wouldnt have a problem if the link was not rigid, mabye if it was a friction devise or something that could lengthen and shorten when needed, something along the lines of a camper anti sway devise. I guess it would have to give before stress was put on the hangers though. ?????????

Just my rambeling thoughts & opinions.

 

Well, first off, No - track bars have not always been on straight axle, leaf sprung vehicles. But as suspensions became more flexible and not so much like riding on the frame, the need to add support came in. Hence the track bar.

Now, as far as the adjustable track bar and brackets. Yes - it is a good idea to use the relocator brackets, in conjunction with the adjustable track bar. The reason is this: all the components that control steering and / or up and down suspension movement SHOULD be as close to parrallel with the axle as possible. The more the angle is increased, the more side to side motion you get. Basically, what you are experiencing. The more parrallel the track bar is in it's resting state, the better.

The adjustable track bar is nice for fine tuning while the vehicle is static, but as lift height increases or the suspension droops, this angle can get bad enough to push or pull on your springs and hangers.

To make a long story short, get the drop brackets and use the adjustable bar to fine tune your axles L/R alignment.

BFR

EDIT: Most of the magor suspension manufacturers sell the drop brackets, just give them a call.

 

Yup you need one. you have bump steer. the drop bracket keeps the track rod parallel with the steering linkage to avoid bump steer.


Dick

 

You're thinking about a drop pitman arm. The drop pitman arm keeps the steering linkage parrallel with the track bar.

The bump steer occurs for 2 reasons, 1 - bad caster / camber, 2 - the steering linkage having too much angle.

The track bar just keeps the axle centered under the frame.

BFR

 

This help a little? Not perfect, but you get the idea.

Ideally, (keep that in mind) you want the track bar and steering linkage parrallel to the axle. This RARELY ever happens. BUT, the less angle, the better. It gives less bump steer, better turning radius, and less side to side movement of the axle.

 

Sonny - You are going to want both a drop pitman arm and drop track bar bracket. I did the Fabtech 3.5 hangers and as Dick stated had bump steer. I thought a drop pitman arm would solve my problem, but you need the drop track bar bracket to have the clearance needed to clear the drop pitman arm and to keep both your steering arm and track bar parrallel as BFR250SD stated. I used the SuperLift 4-inch drop pitman arm and track bar bracket. Worked perfect. As BFR250SD stated you need the adjustable track bar and the Fabtech unit is a nice one.

 

I gathered EXACTLY what I was wanting to with this thread. Thanks alot Fella's

 

Cool! Glad to hear that!

Sorry, I deleted that pic above. Here it is.

 

I hear what you are saying but I think there's more to it.

Without a track rod when the suspension goes down the steering linkage wants to get longer and push the pass wheel out, steer right. Now install the track rod parallel to the steering rod as in a stock truck. When the suspension goes down the track rod will push the front axle to the pass side as much as the steering rod wants to lenghten eliminating any bump steer.
So if you do any mods on the front end you must keep both steering rod and track rod at the same angles or one will out do or under do the other and you'll get the bump steer. The track rod does nothing to keep the axle centered it really pushes the axle out of center when the suspension travels up and down. Thats why an adj track rod is nice because you can adj when the truck is level so it pops right in. Which is the way its supposed to be installed,no friction. Thats why the track rod is so beefy cause it pushes against the springs and all. The 99's had whimpy units that flexed so ford made monster one's for the later years. Parallel is the key and as close to each other as possible.


Dick

 

Yes, there is more, I was just trying to keep it simple. I think we're on the same track, just using different terms

Actually, as the suspension droops, the linkage PULLS on the wheels (it the steering wheel stay in the same position) as it compresses it PUSHES.

The track bar is not part of the steering and has one purpose in life, to keep the axle centered. It is mounted to the frame and to the axle. Is there side to side movement? YES, because the bar is moving in an arch. That is why IDEALLY you want the track bar parrallel at the suspension cycle midpoint. This limits the amount of sided to side movement throughout the cycle.

The adjustablility of it is NOT so that is easy to install, it is so that you can make the necessary corrections to center the axle at it's static point.

Now, the drag link is what comes off the pitman arm and should be parrallel to the track bar. With the right geometry, it should STAY parrallel to it throughout the cycle.

Both are going the same direction at the same time and do nothing to counteract each other.

 

I stand by what I said..I don't think you understand the design. You don't need the track rod for anything but to control bumpsteer. Many 4wd designs don't use one because the steering is designed differently. Some use front to back rods to control bump steer with no side to side. I've worked on many different trucks.
You can take the rod right off the SD's and the only problem you will have is bumpsteer. The axle won't go anywhere but up and down..


Dick

 

The front to back "rods" you are talking about are control arms, like on the new 05+ SD's. They also have a track bar, it LOCATES the axle form side to side. Take that off and pitch the truck into a hard turn and see what happens, you're gonna break, or at least bend, components. All the stress of that side to side movement gets transferred to the spring mounts.

Yes, there are different steering designs for different setups. The ones that don't have track bars ar the IFS setups, as they are running off the cradle and upper and lower control arms to locate the tires.

The track bar has NOTHING to do with bump steer, other than it keeps the axle from being pushed side to side. Bump steer occurs from the tires pushing on the steering components, regardless of the setup.

 

I'll agree to dissagree...All you have to do is look at your own picture.
I know I'm right not cause I have to be but because I make it a point to understand how things work. Always been that way.

Dick

 

Okay, I'm showing you the design. This is HOW IT WORKS. Show me otherwise!

 

And the leaf sping setup.