When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
One of my Kohler kitchen faucets has a light leak. Quite some time ago Kohler sent me new style cartridges, but I had just installed the faucets and they were working fine.
So, now I'd like to replace one. Unfortunately the handle does not wish to come off. As far as I can tell, it's a one piece handle that just pulls off. However, it was probably tight to begin with and crud has probably wedged into the splines. (I didn't install the faucets).
I can move it up and down about 1/16 or so, and I THINK that it's just the handle that's moving. But that seems to be it. I have used a padded plier handle and a rubber mallet, amongst other things, to move it, but so far that's it.
I wonder if I'm missing a trick or 2. I don't want to reef on it any harder than I have for fear of damaging something. When I tapped the pliers , I could see the sink move slightly. (It's a 'stone' sink).
All suggestions appreciated. My current plan is to work it by hand for a few days and see if I can make any progress.
Unfortnately, it's not a single handle - it's the traditional hot and cold faucet setup. Sorry if I wasn't clear.
I will look around for a hidden screw, but I can't think of where they'd hide one.
The faucet cartridge has a splined shaft on the top.
There's a tapped hole in the shaft, but the handles don't have any openings in that area -- or anywhere else as far as I can tell.
I finally rooted around and found the documentation. It's a Kohler K-16109, and there are pics all over the web. The parts diagram shows no screw holding the handle on. Looks like it should pop off -- but it doesn't!
You remove the handle by turning the bell shaped base of the handle. The base and the handle are connected. Once the handle is off you will see the valve stem which is held in place by the hex nut. After turning the water off you can back off the hex and just pull the old stem out. Then insert your new stem taking care to orient it in the same manner as the one you removed.
The base should loosen by turning counter-clockwise.
I'm going to have to figure out a way to do this. I read something similar today, and I tried with a pliers wrapped in something. All Imanaged to do was put a small ding in it.
I read about using a strap wrench, but I don't know if I've seen one small enough.
You are talking about the large base part, right? There's a little collar as well, but it's apparently free floating.
I'm fairly hesitant about this because it doesn't appear to be that way in the diagram.
Thanks again,
hj
ps tried to rep you, but I'll just have to send you a virtual
If your plumber siliconed or puttied the base (he shouldn't have precisely for this reason) that may be why you're having a problem. If your water is particularly hard, you might want to try a few spritzes of lime-away or another descaler, let it soak.
The mechanic in me wants to tell you to hit it with some aerokroil but don't...the rubber o-rings and plastic valve body will not hold up to the kroil very long.
Kohler and Groehe manufacture some awesome fixtures but can be a real pain in the azz to service due to the unconventional designs.
Wish I had another solution.
Good luck.
I keep a piece of that canvas reinforced orange rubber gasket material in my box for situations like this.
Non marring and it has traction.
I would probably wrap the neck of the escutcheon and have at it with a basin wrench.
I've owned many pairs of plastic jawed slip joint pliers over the years, but they don't grip nearly as well.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.