Bed bolts
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 323
Likes: 8
Bed bolts
I posted over in the body and paint forum but got no response, I'm hoping one of the guru's here know if I can use the bed bolts from a newer generation truck for my 1979 F250 4x4. She is in getting painted right now and will be ready to get put back together next week. Any ideas or will regular galvanized carriage bolts work. Its a dual tank truck so the real issue is a bolt for the right front corner above the side fuel tank. Thanks fellas.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
Likes: 247
From: Stanley, VA
Standard carriage bolts have a smaller shank and head than the bolts used by Ford. Dennis Carpenter has the correct bolts. You can use the standard carriage bolts, that's what you get when you order a bolt kit from LMC (overpriced).
I haven't done it but other members have said that you can use the later bolts that have the torx head and "J" nuts.
I haven't done it but other members have said that you can use the later bolts that have the torx head and "J" nuts.
New User
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
I used a new bolt kit from an 03 Super Duty on my 76 SCS. I went ahead and pre-tapped the nut clips and slathered them up with anti-seize after reading stories about not being able to remove super duty bed bolts . I used the clips because the SCS has a couple of places where you can't get to the nuts on the bed bolts.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,107
Likes: 32
From: Spokane, WA
If you can get the right ones from Dennis Carpenter, do that. I don't recommend going the same route I did, which was to have a machine shop machine a set of larger carriage bolts down to the correct size, so the square carriage shank would fit the hole. That set of 8 bolts cost me $110, so it's definitely not the budget route. It worked perfectly, but NOT a cheap solution. (Nobody said I was a genius, ya know)
The bed bolts from LMC will NOT work correctly....they just have standard carriage bolts, and they'll spin in the hole. That'll ruin your day.
The bed bolts from LMC will NOT work correctly....they just have standard carriage bolts, and they'll spin in the hole. That'll ruin your day.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
Likes: 247
From: Stanley, VA
If you can get the right ones from Dennis Carpenter, do that. I don't recommend going the same route I did, which was to have a machine shop machine a set of larger carriage bolts down to the correct size, so the square carriage shank would fit the hole. That set of 8 bolts cost me $110, so it's definitely not the budget route. It worked perfectly, but NOT a cheap solution. (Nobody said I was a genius, ya know)
The bed bolts from LMC will NOT work correctly....they just have standard carriage bolts, and they'll spin in the hole. That'll ruin your day.
The bed bolts from LMC will NOT work correctly....they just have standard carriage bolts, and they'll spin in the hole. That'll ruin your day.
Here's the DC bolt.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 874
Likes: 56
From: Merlin, OR
I also got the torx screw and nut which clips over the frame. Got them from a local Ford dealer. Already did the left front of the bed, got a new set to do the right front too.
Part numbers: Screw- N806251-S103 Nut- N803334-S439 The nut is already pre threaded, but be sure to put plenty of anti seize on the screw and nut both to avoid rust issues in the future.
Part numbers: Screw- N806251-S103 Nut- N803334-S439 The nut is already pre threaded, but be sure to put plenty of anti seize on the screw and nut both to avoid rust issues in the future.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,326
Likes: 48
From: Middle TN
Standard carriage bolts are smaller in size, soft, weak and can shear off in an accident.
I would not like to get hit in the rear and the bed be shoved through the back of the cab.
I would not like to get hit in the rear and the bed be shoved through the back of the cab.
Trending Topics
New User
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
I also got the torx screw and nut which clips over the frame. Got them from a local Ford dealer. Already did the left front of the bed, got a new set to do the right front too.
Part numbers: Screw- N806251-S103 Nut- N803334-S439 The nut is already pre threaded, but be sure to put plenty of anti seize on the screw and nut both to avoid rust issues in the future.
Part numbers: Screw- N806251-S103 Nut- N803334-S439 The nut is already pre threaded, but be sure to put plenty of anti seize on the screw and nut both to avoid rust issues in the future.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 874
Likes: 56
From: Merlin, OR
Yeah the second time I went to the Ford dealership, they gave me one that wasn't prethreaded. I declined, found the invoice for the first ones I got, and went back, and got the same ones as the first time. Prethreaded nut. Seemed better to me to have prethreaded than not.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 874
Likes: 56
From: Merlin, OR
Thankful FTE and the internet!
I also got the torx screw and nut which clips over the frame. Got them from a local Ford dealer. Already did the left front of the bed, got a new set to do the right front too.
Part numbers: Screw- N806251-S103 Nut- N803334-S439 The nut is already pre threaded, but be sure to put plenty of anti seize on the screw and nut both to avoid rust issues in the future.
Part numbers: Screw- N806251-S103 Nut- N803334-S439 The nut is already pre threaded, but be sure to put plenty of anti seize on the screw and nut both to avoid rust issues in the future.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 416
Likes: 1
From: Minnesota
Did you have any issues with the quality of the threads on the bolts/nuts? I've read a lot of reviews saying these doorman ones are junk and get cross threaded/jammed/break. Any of these issues in your experience? and were the J nuts long enough to reach the holes in the frame?
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 3,259
Likes: 1,321
From: Pryor, OK
Yes, a couple issues.
1. All "J" nuts were long enough, but I had to grind the frame about 1/4" on the third holes back.
2. I had one bolt jam (the last bolt installed) when I had about 1/4" left to go down. I called Dorman customer service and they shipped me a whole new kit free of charge.
Here is my paint thread I did. At post #71 is where I talk about the bed and the bolts.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-thread-5.html
1. All "J" nuts were long enough, but I had to grind the frame about 1/4" on the third holes back.
2. I had one bolt jam (the last bolt installed) when I had about 1/4" left to go down. I called Dorman customer service and they shipped me a whole new kit free of charge.
Here is my paint thread I did. At post #71 is where I talk about the bed and the bolts.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-thread-5.html
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 787
From: Simi Valley, CA
Standard carriage bolts have a smaller shank and head than the bolts used by Ford. Dennis Carpenter has the correct bolts. You can use the standard carriage bolts, that's what you get when you order a bolt kit from LMC (overpriced).
I haven't done it but other members have said that you can use the later bolts that have the torx head and "J" nuts.
I haven't done it but other members have said that you can use the later bolts that have the torx head and "J" nuts.
