We have a 2006 ford f-450 one ton with a 6.0 L with only about 70,000 miles on it having serious problems. This started in April, we broke down in Moses lake due to engine overheating, Discovery Ford had to put on new v belt and belt tensioner ($1000 w/ towing)….and then in June, the clutch pedal would stick and you couldn’t shift, so legacy ford had to put in new clutch master cylinder and serviced truck ($620) then 5 days after that we had to take it to legacy again because it was having hard time starting. ($3300)<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
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This is what they said they had to do:<o></o>
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67650 FICM, fuel regulator, injectors 1.00 pulled codes KOEO-ODDTCDS P0261, PO267, PO273, PO279, CMDTCS, P, 0261 . PO263, PO267, PO270, PO273, PO276, PO279PO341, P2291, monitored PIDS found bad FICM, performed power balance injectors 1, 5, 3 dropping, REC FICM, fuel injectors, and fuel regulator, removed valve covers, oil rails, removed injectors, installed new injectors, reinstalled oil rail, and valve cover, removed air filter, removed degas bottle, removed FICM, installed new FICM, programmed FICM, reinstalled degas bottle, installed new air filter and changed fuel filters, test drove after test drive shut off vehicle to clean engine bay, when starting vehicle has long crank monitored PIDS vehicle had a oil leak hot causing a long crank while hot. <o></o>
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Engine drivability, REMAN NOZZLE ASY, injectors 3.00 removed passenger side valve cover, removed high pressure oil rail, removed injectors, 1, 3, 5 installed all three new injectors and reinstalled high pressure rail, reinstalled valve cover test drove ok at this time.<o></o>
REMAN MODULE – engine control – EEC<o></o>
Fuel regulator 1.10 removed cold side CAC tube removed fuel regulator, installed new regulator, reinstalled CAC tube, torque to 10 Ft Lbs, ok at this time.<o></o>
Replaced diesel fuel filter, drained water separator, changed both primary and secondary fuel filters, changed air filter<o></o>
Replaced hot side CAC tube B connection air inlet, CA Clamp EA Clamp, CAC tube .50 removed hot side tube, removed CAC tube, installed new CAC Tube test drove ok at this time…<o></o>
Pressure regulator, dummy plugs 3.50 shut truck off went to start vehicle has long crank while hot, pulled in bay monitored ICP, ICP Voltage, IPR, RPM, vehicle has a high pressure leak, performed high pressure leak test found both dummy plugs were leaking, installed new dummy plugs, performed high pressure leak test, no further leaks found at this time. Test drove vehicle, shut off for 5 mins vehicle start right up ok at this time.<o></o>
End of report….that cost $3300, so far we have $4900 into this truck in the last 3 months. So after they did all this work we drove the truck for about 2 weeks, and on 7-11-12 it broke down again!<o></o>
7-11-12 they took the truck out and got about 1 block away and the “check engine gauges” light came on…because it was over heating, so we pulled over and turned the truck off and had to tow to legacy ford. Legacy ford looked at it and said…it over heated and blew both head gaskets….they want $7800 to replace both head gaskets, and if they heads are bad now because it over heated they want another $3000 on top of that. So if we have them fix this worse case we would have almost 16,000 dollars into this truck!!!!!!!!!!!! So…what do you guys think…did they do something that might have caused this to overheat?! We want to be able to prove they are responsible for this over heating event, and they have to fix it since we just gave them $3300 to fix the previous problems…what would cause this truck to overheat like that two weeks after they fixed it?!?! Let me know what you guys think, need your help on this big time…truck is on standby until we figure out what the heck to do…<o></o>
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Thank you!!<o></o>
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Steve<o></o>

 

Any tunes on the truck? Do you have any gauges on truck ScanGauge II is an invaluable investment on these 6.0's. Dealership should have tested your deltas when they test drove the truck. That would have let you know of a plugging oil cooler. Also it would take way longer than 1 block to overheat the engine on the truck.

 

Legacy ford in the Houston area?

 

No tunes or mods, all stock, all guages are stock, i dont know about scanguage...

Thanks,

Steve

 

washington state

 

why not try asking the driver what he keeps screwing up and stop tring to place blame on the shops.
at some point you will have to be an owner.
just wondering how many hours are on the engine?
you can access this threw the dash.

 

I hate to say it but hes right, your oil cooler is probably plugged up which is causing ALL of this. When the oil cooler plugs, coolant flow to the EGR cooler is restricted enough to cause it to fail (and/or the oil cooler can fail, allowing oil to enter the cooling system). Then coolant from the EGR cooler enters the intake manifold and combustion chamber causing extreme pressure that can stretch the head bolts and allow the head gaskets to leak. GET GAUGES! Coolant temp. Oil temp. n probly Fuel pressure. You might want to get a new degas bottle cap. Those things can lose their spring, wear out, and lose a lot of pressure for your coolant system.

 

why cant you just use the stock guages?

 

The factory instrument cluster gauges are only "indicators", if that best describes it. They don't display actual real time numbers with actual values in them. Sorry about your problems, but if your truck had arrived on my doorstep and I saw evidence of coolant venting from the degas bottle, I would've quoted EVERYTHING under the sun to address ALL the issues you've just described. You might end up with a $10,000 plus bill when all is said and done, but at least you will leave with EVERYTHING fixed.

Now, if you had told me to just fix the present issue, that's another story ......

 

Ok I am going to put my foot in this.
They should of checked the cooler whit that
much work going into it. After all they do give signs.
You should take it up to Enumclaw WA Fugate Ford.
They are on highway 410 just out of Buckley WA
They do know diesels and do a good job.

You need to get some thing like the Scanguage II

Sean

 

also for more info please read tsb 09-08-03

 

I think you may have some wiggle room on negotiating that job with the dealership. You might also call a couple independent diesel shops in the area. Around here, replacing head gaskets and installing head studs (instead of the factory weaker head bolts) runs around 5k, the last time I called an independent shop that specialized in diesels/powerstrokes. Use the search function to learn more on the studs vs bolts, there is a ton of info on it.

Some things to consider when you are doing the head gaskets:

-check turbo for proper function so you know it is not overboosting which can blow headgaskets

-replace oil and EGR coolers because they are R and R'd anyway during the repair and can cause overheating and blown headgaskets


The scanguage is about 150 bucks and is a plugin scan tool that will give you oil temp, coolant temp, trans temp, FICM volts, battery volts, turbo vane movement, MPG, among other things. This info can be monitored and you can keep small problems from cascading into major issues like you have now.

I feel bad for you. That is a lot of money, and I hope you get it fixed right and for a fair price.

 

How to put this politely...... All mechanics are not created equal. I would say that you had a cascade of problems. I am just not sure how much is the dealers and how much is the operators. I am constantly amazed at how many people spend $50k on a truck and treat it like a disposable razor. Now as any of the people on these forums will tell you. The 6.0L is a outstanding power plant but does have some built in problems (FICM, EGR/Oil Cooler both come to mind). There is a lot of fixes for these issues. From a Bullet proof cooler to coolant filter to EGR delete there is much debate. The one thing I have noticed is no matter which route you take (I chose to keep it stiock (OEM egr/oil cooler with sinister diesel coolant filter) you NEED guages) Which is more accurate the temp is in the middle or it is 193 degrees..... If it was your oil cooler a $160 dollar scan guage with x guage monitoring oil temp and coolant temp delta would have told you (probably weeks if not months) before catastrophic failure.

With all that being said from what I can see it looks you were chasing 2 different problems. Problem one appears to be in the fuel system (and controls) With the way they played with injectors, HPOP, and FICM. The FICM sends the control signals which allow HP oil to fire injectors and send fuel into cylinders. Problem 2 which is what the truck is down now with is a over heating.... blown gasket problem, Probably caused by the oil/egr cooler mentioned above.

I would say good luck on getting them to eat the cost of repair. I would try to price some other dealers and try to negotiate. Maybe Since you are such a "Valued Customer" they may allow you to pay labor and invoice price instead of "retail price" on parts.... you save money and the dealer doesn't lose money.

You may also want to check the other FORD dealers I have 2 in my imediate area and while they both do diesel. The truck dealer (he only does full size trucks) is much cheaper than the dealer that stocks the full line of ford prodiucts.

If you decide to get the truck repaired you may want to think about checking the threads here and make some sort of decision on how to "improve" the 6.0L so this never happens again. I would check into

1. CETANE- add a additive to fuel to boost cetane ratings
2. Blue Spring Upgrade- raise fuel pressure helps to prolong injector life
3. FICM upgrade- A few hundred dollars to mimimize impact of heat and vibration on the brains of the fuel system
4. Coolant Filter- can we say coolant breakdown and/or casting sand....
5. Head Studs verse bolts.
6. Optional (EGR delete and or BPD coolers)

 

At the Legacy Ford Shop in Richland, WA there has got to be something they did with all those new parts that would have led up to the engine overheating...two weeks later it overheats...and blows head gaskets....WTF...they ran the engine codes and they said there was overheating codes (there was back in april when we had to put $924 for belt and belt tensioner)...but we only ran it for one block...maybe the engine was hydra locking and the extreme pressure is what caused the head gaskets to push out...they put three new injectors in but didn’t say anything about the injector seals, so is there a seal there that will let coolant leak by? From what i can read they did new FICM, 3 new injectors, new air filter, new fuel filters, new fuel regulator which i think is the EEC, replaced hot side CAC tube, (what is that?), new pressure regulator, and dummy plugs. They did nothing with EGR Cooler or EGR Valve, didn’t even check it or check the coolant...<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
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We just had a similar truck same model, year and engine, in the Gus Johnson Ford’s shop in Spokane, WA yesterday for $2200. It was blowing white smoke (burning coolant) we took the degas bottle cap off while it was running and smoke/vapor was coming out of the bottle. This is what they say they did:<o></o>
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Cooler – EGR $391<o></o>
Core Charge $75<o></o>
KIT $330<o></o>
Valve Assembly – modulator (which is probably the EGR Valve) $203<o></o>
Anti Freeze $51<o></o>
Hardware $5<o></o>
Pin $5<o></o>
15 40 w oil $50<o></o>
Oil filter $50<o></o>
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Total parts 1200<o></o>
Labor 1008<o></o>
Total $2208<o></o>
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Dang near the same exact truck…different color…same problem…but legacy ford didn’t do anything with the EGR and a week later we are broke down again…probably for the same reason we brought it in…what do you guys think, I got to get this fixed but we cant just bite the bullet ($9800 repair for new heads and gaskets)<o></o>

 

Take 'em to see a Judge..... or small claims court...... but don't mention it here, until the outcome.