i have been thinking about deleting my van pump and installing the 6.0 vac pump i have i was gonna do the sd tensioner mod but keep the obs belt on and remove the vac pump and fab a plate where it used to be to help reinforce the area where the van pump used to be also reason for keeping the obs belt is size of the belt it is 2 inches shorter than the sd belts so wit the vac pump outta the way the sd belt might be too long. what do you guys think? feed back would be appreciated!

 

What would be the benefit of doing this? is the SD pump better than the OBS? how so? I would be more interested in the story on the 91 gallon tank youre runnin? like where could I get one? where is it on the truck? does it ride in a stock location or is it in the bed.

 

I don't need the vac pump any more to power my brakes and I just had a vac pump fail and took out my belt as for my tank it is in my bed I got it from work as we were putting a vegetable oil powered 6.0 back to factory and I got it for free it has the pickup and return lines also a roll over valve and a filler dot legal I linked it as a single tank to my beans electric fuel and got rid of my factory tanks as they were not needed and freed up a lot of room under the truck and the tank is an rds fuel tank u can get em from northern tool the tank was a bish to clean as there was 2 inches of frenchfry crap in the bottom had to cut 2 large holes in em and scrape it out then steam clean as well as degrease it then rinse then patch the holes up with aluminum plate tig welded up

 

As for why I am going to my SD pump I need some vacuum to power the climate controls its small but does the job also its eletric

 

Do it.

It's worth it in your situation and less drag on the system.

 

I have started got my spare backed modded got to get another SD tensioner and remove vac pump then we will see belt wise

 

this is why i was popping over to this section.i got side tracked with e-fans on my way in.
i had bought the SD e-pump and did a search here to see if you guys had any tips.
turned out all the threads had lots of questions but no answers.
so here's the scoop.
the pump is self regulating.meaning all it needs is juice.it turns itself on/off as needed as it looses or hold the build in set amount of pressure.

preferably off a relay that's triggered when you turn the truck on,rather than just off the battery.
why? well,to make it more proper.i suppose if you get a vac leak,you can't hear it running constantly over the diesel and she'll burn up anyway........but.at least it can't just start running while parked and burn up.

with the hydro brakes as you know,all you need it for is HVAC.
so on the idi,i cut everything to the drivers side,and just used it for what i need.the HVAC.the less amount of vac line/blocks etc.the less to worry about leaking,cus if you get a leak,the pump will just run until it dies.
after my fused relay install to get the thing some power,i simply run my pump line (the little black one.the larger white side,doesn't get hooked to anything.it pushes it's air out from that is all) into the T by the AC/heater box.plug into that T so the check valve works for your pump.making sure to hook the line into the top of the box back,and the other black line that runs into the large wire loom.
that's all she wrote.now when you turn a control,she'll pump and direct your air where you told it.defrost/vent etc.etc.
now,if you want,you could install a little universal vac canister over there over on the fender so it can hold more vac and the pump may not have to run every time you turn a setting on your HVAC,however once in a set position,that's it anyway.the pump doesn't need to ever run again until you change it.
so since i hardly change it much (besides this time of year,using a/c i guess) i thought about not even installing one.but i guess i probably will,just because it'll be more proper probably.

as for vac pump removal and belt size,can't help ya there cus iv got the idi of course.but that'll get ya guys going.it's very easy.

items required:
vac pump either ford or here's the doorman part # replacement: #904-214
fuse holder
5 amp fuse (i dunno.i couldn't find specs on the motor.and the SD trucks have other junk on the circuit with it.so you can't go by that.you could,but they have burn up issues.maybe their 10 Amp is a bit too much.perhaps if she runs a long time due to a leak,it'll blow a 5 amp before burning up? dunno.5 amp hasn't blown yet.so i'll run with this until i see any issues.)
some wire.#14 gauge is plenty.it's not much draw if a 5 amp fuse is holding her.
relay.
grab those packs of universal vacuum fittings.like a multi pack at auto stores.(AZ had a nice little good multi package)
grab some more vac hose there too.
wire connectors/crimps.

as for the pigtail part #? i dunno.never could find it.probably call up a ford dealer?
i used little red/pink butt connectors and crimped down the ends to slide over the pins.cut a little plastic off the end to slide on good.crimp and test fit until tight.you can make a nice free plug doing this that'll never come off.worked for me.
either pin can be - or + i noticed.it'll suck in from the small black vac side either way.-double check that to be sure though.

there ya go.that'll hopefully help ya out and only make one trip to the auto store anyway.once someone does it,you can do a more exact detailed writeup for the PSD trucks.
the boys in the IDI section would shoot me if i told 'em i swapped something from mechanical to electrical,so i doubt i'll need to share it over there,so i didn't take exact notes while doing it lol.

 

A good way to stop it from burning up would be a timed break fuse.

They are really neat, after enough current passes though them, they will pop off for a bit till they cool off.

While this can be good and bad, its just an idea. But if you have a leak, it will save your pump.

 

check valve @ passenger side.heater/ac,blend door box.whatever it's called.;
A.to electric pump's black port.this will be your new line you bought.(or there is enough old line if you remove the piece going over to the drivers side to run that to your new pump too.new line is good though.notice A is the black side of the check valve.
B.to right there at top of heater box.
C.the last line left.this is the one that runs down into the large harness over by the pass fender.
i covered them all up.all these lines running over are black.
do not do anything with the white line running up the vac's blend door......whatchamacallit? the suction thing that open and closes.anyway,you leave that one alone.

if you need to keep vac going to the drivers side block,down by the power distribution box,then you can add a T to get vac over there.in fact,if you do that,you'll also make use of the factory vac canister located over there already.i bypassed that whole side for reasons mentioned above.less line to leak/less risk of pump burning up if lines are left short on the pass side only.i dunno,seemed like a good idea anyway.

basic relay for pic two.
as on the diagram of the relay package anyway,but;
fuse holder from battery,holding 5? amp fuse to pin 30
vac pump to pin 87
ground wire to pin 86 w/another pin off 86 to the other side of the vac pump
pin 85 - switches the relay open so flow passes through pin 30 to pin 87 so power gets to pump directly. grab a line coming from something under your hood that powers up with the key in the RUN position.


things look a bit different under the hood of the idi of course,but that will get ya guys going on this mod.
it's very easy and basic as you can tell with pics.
have fun!

edit,
yeah! that's a very good idea Talyn.
if you guys are doing this to help free up a little drag,your likely like me,looking to get every ouch possible from your fuel.
wrap your whole heater/ac box like this guys.just the vent alone felt WAY cooler keeping out that engine bay heat.this will really help the A/C so you can use a lower setting and help save even more fuel.
this stuff i use is called EZcool soundproofing/insulation.google it to find everything you need.or use whatever.just make sure its reflective like this.big improvement.especially with the turbo right there and all.