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Injector hold down bolt snapped

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Old Jun 29, 2012 | 09:58 PM
  #16  
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Good idea Ken. I've done that a time or two myself.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2012 | 06:41 AM
  #17  
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simple left hand drill bit worked for me
 
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Old Jun 30, 2012 | 08:39 PM
  #18  
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If there is enough of the broken bolt protruding there are broken stud removal sockets that you can buy. One of these saved me when I rounded off my truck's turbo hold down bolts. They work by jamming over the end of the broken bolt and work by tightening & cutting into the bolt with tapered LH cutting edges on the inside of the socket.
If you can tap on of those onto the broken bolt you be able to undo it without drilling.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2012 | 07:11 PM
  #19  
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Here's an update on the injector bolt saga.

I ordered a few LH drill bits as suggested, but decided to try my luck with a regular 1/8 in. bit and stud extractor before the LH bits arrived.

What a mistake! Not only was I unable to keep the drill bit centered on the bolt, but it snapped off - half in the bolt and half in the head.

When the LH drills arrived I decided to fabricate a jig to keep the bit aligned properly:





This was all that was left of the injector hold down bolt after going through several LH drill bits and removing the snapped off one:



I tried to restore the threads with a helicoil, but the head was too far gone and the insert didn't hold. Here's what it looked like after removal:



My next repair attempt will be with a threaded insert:



Planning on drilling and tapping to 3/8-16 for the insert tomorrow.

This job has made me feel like a dentist doing a cast iron root canal. Stay tuned ...
 
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Old Jul 20, 2012 | 09:54 PM
  #20  
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Wow, surprised it was that much trouble,hope it works out.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 05:49 AM
  #21  
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Are you using the thread locker that came with the inserts? Or cleaning it off and using red Lock-tite.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 08:42 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Poolguy601
Are you using the thread locker that came with the inserts? Or cleaning it off and using red Lock-tite.
I thought the thread locker on the inserts was pre-applied red Lock-tite. I do have more if needed.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 10:58 AM
  #23  
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I have used these in the past. The sealant gets soft and it loosens. I remove the preapplied thread locker and apply RED lock-tite liquid.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 08:09 PM
  #24  
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Thanks for the info, I'll use the red Lock-tite.

Chris
 
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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 11:35 PM
  #25  
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Good luck. Hope it works out, it should.

Chet
 
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Old Jul 26, 2012 | 11:19 PM
  #26  
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Drilled and tapped the head to 3/8-16 and installed two 6 mm EZ-Loc inserts secured with LockTite 262. Spent most of the day putting everyting back together.

Here's a 12 second video "the sound of victory":

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0XsPYNYa1wo

Thanks to everyone for their tips and suggestions. It took quite a while to dig myself out from under that mistake, but it seems to be fixed.

Special thanks to Clay from Riffraff for the new bolt .

PS: If anyone needs to fix metric 6X1 threads, please let me know. I've got it all: drills, taps, helicoils, inserts, locktite, you name it ...

Chris
 
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Old Jul 26, 2012 | 11:29 PM
  #27  
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Glad you got it worked out.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2012 | 04:35 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by landmobile
Drilled and tapped the head to 3/8-16 and installed two 6 mm EZ-Loc inserts secured with LockTite 262. Spent most of the day putting everything back together.




Thanks to everyone for their tips and suggestions. It took quite a while to dig myself out from under that mistake, but it seems to be fixed.

Special thanks to Clay from Riffraff for the new bolt .

PS: If anyone needs to fix metric 6X1 threads, please let me know. I've got it all: drills, taps, helicoils, inserts, locktite, you name it ...

Chris
Awesome deal! I tried to rep you for the information, but I'm in jail.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2017 | 11:15 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by woodnthings
Use a electric or pneumatic engraver. The vibrations from the tip will allow the bolt to move. Just angle the engraver to the left (remove) and it should work the bolt around. I use this method all the time and it will most always work every time.

Reps to Clay, for helping everyone out!
Driving down the road last night and truck started running like sh.. pulled over, killed it and it hydro locked. The #7 bottom injector bolt is busted flush. Gonna try this engraver idea.
Thanks everyone else. I always come here and i have learned a ton.
Learned the hard way on my end but lessons learned.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2017 | 12:19 AM
  #30  
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My method is a bit different. It will work if there is a bit of the bolt sticking out. Find a nut that fits over the bolt. Slip it on and then from the inside of the nut use you MIG to weld it in place. Then try a socket and impact to remove it. I sometimes brakes the weld. No problem just get another nut and weld it on. As long as you weld from inside the nut you should be golden. The thermal cycling form welding also tend to brake up corrosion. I have done this on a Cady water pump, 7.5 HP Honda outboard head bolts, Honda gen set and some others. It works, no drilling, no taping. FYI I am afraid of easy-outs, It's all good until you snap on off. Then drilling is out of the window its too hard unless you use a diamond drill. If you drill, you are likely to ruin the threads. You would need to be within about 0.001 and on axis. Fogetaboutit. If you drill, there is likely a helicoil in your future

.
 
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