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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 11:38 AM
  #46  
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Well......shoot.

Heard back from the machine shop today.

My cylinders are so worn that they don't even think they could clean it up at 60 over. It'd already been bored 30 over. How many miles were on this Bronco when I got it??

Plus, the crank is out of round, so it'll need to be reground. That's $195 vs. $75 just to polish it. Blech...


Thoughts?
 
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 11:45 AM
  #47  
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I would be looking at getting different parts. While I kept my crank, I got replacement block & heads from some guy on CL for ~$50 total, he was getting rid of the excess parts he had accumulated for his own project.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 11:50 AM
  #48  
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I'm sorry to hear that, AB. Can you hit the j/y and get another block? I'd sell you the one I have sitting in my garage, .030 over from shop, new hyper pistons, chromemolly rings, recon rods, crank .010 over, deck shaved .020, but you certainly don't need a mystery fading oil psi problem.

I hope you find a good core. People are just about giving them away on CL, as you know. Good luck.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 11:52 AM
  #49  
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There seems to be a "300 season" on Craigslist. I search it regularly for parts and such, and about every 6 months or so, there's a flood of them. Then, none for a long time.

I'd be very curious what the issue was with your oil. Who knows, a bearing in backwards?

Our junk yard here has dozens of them. I'm just not in the mood to pull one right now. Granted, I will if I need to.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 12:09 PM
  #50  
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What's the thought on just resleeving a block? Or is it really expensive/not recommended?
 
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 12:12 PM
  #51  
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I know and hear plenty of guys who resleeve their blocks. I guess its ok if the right precautions are taken?
 
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 12:13 PM
  #52  
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It's an alternative to scrapping the block and trying to find another. You will have to check with a machinist on the cost.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 12:14 PM
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I think expensive.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 12:27 PM
  #54  
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Haha, no. $100 per cylinder, and he said all of them would probably need it. His personal recommendation was to scrap the block and crank and start over.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 12:28 PM
  #55  
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Wow that's too much.. Especially since the blocks are still pretty easy to find
 
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 12:32 PM
  #56  
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That's what he said. 300s are everywhere, just go get another one.
Save sleeving for the rare and hard to find blocks.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 02:03 PM
  #57  
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Still haven't found a core. Fortunately, if it comes down to it, the junk yard here has them for $150 (block and crank).

However, in the mean time, I'm curious what other people's rebuilds cost when all said and done? Machine work, parts, gaskets, etc. etc. etc.

Main reason I ask is I'm simply weighing against the idea of buying a rebuilt engine. There's a company in Spokane, WA that will build me an engine, professionally port and polish the head, install an RV cam, and ship it to me for $1950 (including the core cost). 7 year, 100,000 mile warranty.

I'd LOVE to do the work myself (been looking forward to it actually), but that kinda warranty is tough to pass up.

Thoughts?
 
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 06:29 PM
  #58  
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I spent $3,300 just at the machine shop getting my 400 built but this includes most everything except assembly. This is probably more the exception than the rule, the guy who did mine builds Ford race car engines and really knows his stuff.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 08:46 PM
  #59  
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I've been talking to a guy who owns a machine shop in my area that specializes in building v8s, but he said he used to do the ford 6s all the time because of how common they were. I'm going to tear down my engine and bring it to him for proper machining then try my hand at re-assembling it (with his guidance, he's more then happy to help me out which is good because I need a mentor on this engine)

I'm not sure if that's a good deal you got there AB, but you're right, that warranty sweetens the deal quite a bit
 
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 11:39 PM
  #60  
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I don't like that deal, AB. What I've learned is that the devil is in the detail; what one person calls a rebuild could be very diff. from what you want. For example: are the cylinders bored or honed? Pistons new, or just new rings installed? Is the cam new or reground? Is the flywheel resurfaced...by a machine shop and not with an orbital sander? Are the rods reconditioned? Type of gaskets? You never know unless you do it yourself.

I would do what I did and pay a pro to look over your shoulder while you do it yourself.

With pistons, rings, gaskets, machine work, t.gears, trash regrind cam that I replaced, I paid $1200. And that was for .030 over, magnafluxing, balancing, recon. rods, crank ground .010, and decked .020, bearings, oil pump.
 
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