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Did V codes, what do I really get from B codes in back?

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Old Jun 20, 2012 | 09:32 AM
  #1  
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From: San Martin
Did V codes, what do I really get from B codes in back?

Have 32" tires.

Installed part # 2C3Z 5310 HA in front. Did get about 1.5" of lift over my dead Ex D code springs, but I imagine this just put the Excursion back to normal? It's about 39" to top of the wheel cutout in front and about 40-41" in back. The stock swaybar now looks level.

Also installed the Hellwig sway bar in back....before I did anything. That made a huge difference in straight-line stability and I gave it a workout driving it to Sacramento one very windy day, going up Hwy 80 thru Benecia. Northern Californians know that area as basically permanently gusty. The trees are all slanted in one direction. The Ex was solid as a rock, and easy to drive straight.

Installed Bilstien
Front: BE5-2818
Rear: BE5-6209

My question is this: The Ex had Sachs shocks in front and Edelbrock shocks in the rear and used to transfer every stinking bump on the road. Now, with the V codes up front, the rear sway and the Bilstiens all around, with my stock rear springs, it's very smooth. Sucks up smaller bumps and rough edges very well. I even drove about 40mph on a local dirt road. It was surprisingly nice.

If I plan to never tow, and mostly will use it for long road trips and once a year to Death Valley and Joshua Tree (long, open gravel roads at 40-55mph), do I "need" to install the rear B codes? (modified, of course).

I have a nice, matched used set of B codes from a truck that had about 90K on it. I am curious to know if they will raise the back up much more, and if the ride will be any harsher. I'd rather not have to raise the truck with a front lift.

Right now, it seems the Bilstiens are the major contributor to the smoother ride.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2012 | 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by mwsmith100
but I imagine this just put the Excursion back to normal?
No, the front-end is now at stock F250 4x4 height now.

If I plan to never tow, and mostly will use it for long road trips and once a year to Death Valley and Joshua Tree (long, open gravel roads at 40-55mph), do I "need" to install the rear B codes? (modified, of course).
That kind of depends on a couple things.

1) Why did you do the spring swap?

If you did it to eliminate the Steering Wander, you've only done half the job. Replacing the rear springs completes the job.

2) Your rear-end should now be lower than the front, which looks funny. This is corrected with a set of B's and 3.5" tapered blocks or the stock blocks and modified B's.

Stewart
 
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Old Jun 20, 2012 | 06:14 PM
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mwsmith100
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From: San Martin
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Thanks for responding Stewart, your old posts on this subject were very helpful to me.


Originally Posted by Stewart_H
1) Why did you do the spring swap?

If you did it to eliminate the Steering Wander, you've only done half the job. Replacing the rear springs completes the job.
ex has 166K miles. front D codes were arched upwards, bottoming out--- and I did it for steering wander. I mentioned in my post I felt the Hellwig rear sway bar did quite a bit to eliminate steering wander, but... you're right, it's not all gone. The steering box itself "feels" right, btw. I mean, I don't have any play that I can tell. a slight twitch to one side or the other with the steering wheel provides input that you can feel.

Originally Posted by Stewart_H
2) Your rear-end should now be lower than the front, which looks funny. This is corrected with a set of B's and 3.5" tapered blocks or the stock blocks and modified B's.

Stewart

my original post had buried in it:

"It's about 39" to top of the wheel cutout in front and about 40-41" in back." This was after the front V-code swap.

take a look at these pictures (I can't post attachments). the new front V-codes are almost flat, not arched down a lot like I would have expected. Is this how your's looks? (Edit) the reason I am asking is because from what you say, I am worried I did not get the right springs, even though the part # checks out on Ford Parts online, and the stamping on the springs is ADA, like in some other posts where they bought new V-codes.

ExcursionSuspension - mwsmith's Photos

ExcursionSuspension - mwsmith's Photos

Otherwise, right now the ride height looks normal. I plan to modify my B's if I use them. was trying to avoid raising the rear end up 2 more inches and needing 2" front hangers.

which raises another point: the stock front hangers have these huge welded plates on the sides, which the front spoiler, and a fairly hefty steel beam bolt up to. Aftermarket hangers would not allow you to bolt the beam or spoiler back up. The side plates with the mounting holes are missing. I'm no expert, but that steel beam seems structural to me, even on a ladder frame.
 

Last edited by mwsmith100; Jun 20, 2012 at 09:30 PM. Reason: forgot something crucial.
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Old Jun 20, 2012 | 07:12 PM
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The 2" front hangers include an attachment point that allows the use of the front air dam (spoiler). The front steel beam is not used (so I am told). I left it off mine.
 
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