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Rust Seized Trailer Woes

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Old Jun 18, 2012 | 09:20 AM
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Rust Seized Trailer Woes

I have a 2000 F150 4x4 xlt 5.4. It has a class III (I believe factory) receiver on it. I have the receiver in it and a 2 inch ball on the receiver insert. I am in the process of selling my flat bottom jon boat with a 1 7/8 trailer and I want to drive it around some to make sure the trailer still tows ok, the tires hold air, etc.
I have a 1 7/8 ball and figured, as I have done in the past, I'd just change the ball on the receiver and tow the flat bottom. I tried everything imaginable to get that ball off. When I last put it on, I tightened it to around 100 lbs with a torque wrench, but I am afraid since then it has rusted on. I tried half a can of PB Blaster, sledge hammer motivation, heating with propane torch (I have heard since that propane isn't hot enough) turning with the torque wrench, and even hitting it with the pneumatic impact. No movement.
I figured with receiver inserts as cheap as they are, I'd just concede to the ball being on the reciever insert, and buy a new insert. However, the insert in the receiver won't come out either. To solve that problem, I took the pin out, I did the sledge for motivation, and even did the chain to a tree trick and it isn't moving even a little.
Am I missing something? What is my move here? I am open to ideas for removing the ball OR removing the reciever insert, as long as I can put a 1 7/8 ball on the truck somehow. HELP!
 
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Old Jun 18, 2012 | 10:47 AM
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Well you can always torch the ball off. Or do the chain to tree method again and just keep giving it tugs till it comes loose. It will eventually. I had a receiver that was stuck in my hitch and I put it in 4 low and just kept tugging on it till it came loose. Id try taking your propane torch and heat the but on the ball and hot as you can and then shock it with cold water that always helps to break it loose. Good luck!
 
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Old Jun 18, 2012 | 11:56 AM
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I have often used about a three foot cheater bar on a 3/4 drive to break the ball free. With that combination some has to give (at least so far it has never let me down).

Steve
 
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Old Jun 18, 2012 | 12:04 PM
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Thanks guys! I will try both methods.
When I do the tree method, I just take my foot off the brake, let it roll forward about 3 feet until it stops the truck. Is that the right method? I don't want to tear up my lawn, and I don't want to jack up my class III.

Why does the water work on a heated ball? If I do that, do I want to let it chill for a minute, or put the impact on it right away?
 
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Old Jun 18, 2012 | 12:33 PM
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I had to give it a few good tugs! But when you heat the ball it expands and when you cool it it shocks it and breaks the rust bond most of the time. One you pour water on it you want to hit it with the impact or wrench and bar as quick as you can. When I pulled mine out I left a little slack in the chain took off let it jerk alitle. Wasn't like tearing anythin up jerk just enough to get a good yank on it.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2012 | 10:34 PM
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shock load or impact is the best. Put a chain or comealong on and pull to a tree. Pull tight, then smack the receiver with a 5 pound hammer and it sould jump out 1/4 inch, etc... load it up again and smack again. That should work if the "bump" with the rolling truck does not, and you have more control
 
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Old Jun 18, 2012 | 10:41 PM
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I SOLVED IT!

Ok here is how I got it. All I needed to do was change the ball, changing the receiver insert would have just been an alternate way to do it.

What I did was I soaked the ball shaft and nut in PB Blaster, focusing especially on the small gap in the lock washer. I let that sit for some time while I had dinner. I went back out, put the propane on the nut and threads for 2-3 minutes until it was orange hot. I dipped it in a cup of water to cool it fast and hit it with the pneumatic impact. That jarred it a little but didn't free it. While it was still relatively hot, I sprayed more PB Blaster on the threads, and again in the gap in the lock washer. I let that sit for 30 seconds or so and put the torque wrench on it. That moved it. I undid the nut and learned my lesson. Any other ball that goes on there in the future will go on with anti-seize on the threads.

Thanks for your help everyone!
 
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Old Jun 19, 2012 | 08:31 AM
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or just buy a "convert-a-ball" they come in 1 7/8, and 2 or you could get the one that adds a 2 5/16. you just give the ball a half turn and it comes off the shaft, put desired size on and turn 1/2 turn, ball is locked on, done.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2012 | 10:44 AM
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Just use a stainless steel ball and no more rust seizing. I also have a stainless steel receiver insert, the way to go.
 
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