Prep for brake job
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 324
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From: NC
Prep for brake job
When I had my old gasser which only had pads on the front I just changed the front pad (and rotor if I needed).
Of course my 04 has pads on all for, my main question is should I change all the pads even though my front end is the main set that needs them.
When I got my truck worked on at FMC, my service tech told me my front brake lining is almost gone. Looking at my ticket it shows that the measurement is disc less than 3mm, drum 1mm or less.
I'm planning on just doing the front end, replacing rotor and pads.
Of course my 04 has pads on all for, my main question is should I change all the pads even though my front end is the main set that needs them.
When I got my truck worked on at FMC, my service tech told me my front brake lining is almost gone. Looking at my ticket it shows that the measurement is disc less than 3mm, drum 1mm or less.
I'm planning on just doing the front end, replacing rotor and pads.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,834
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From: Middle Tn.
Maybe I stated it wrong. Won't bet on that however. When braking the weight shifts to the front and the front brake proportioning valves are set to provide more braking to the front brakes because of this. Still stand by 2 to 3 front pads to 1 rear is relavent on a normal basis. Potato Potatoe, your choice.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,708
Likes: 7
From: Circle City
You should disassemble the rears if you're doing the front as stated grease the slides also you can check the condition of the ebrake and you'll be wanting to bleed the entire system so you might as well break loose the rear wheels and do it right even though the rear pad may have some life.
You may find out your rear pads aren't worn down enough to say they need replacing but due to glazed rotors, you might decide to do those as well because of glazing.
You may find out your rear pads aren't worn down enough to say they need replacing but due to glazed rotors, you might decide to do those as well because of glazing.
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2011
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From: NC
Well I've only replaced the front pads, my next job will be getting new rotors, and probably new calipers, since the front passenger, the caliper holding bolt wouldn't come out, but I was still able to take the pads out, re-grease slide pins.
Once I get enough to get all 4 rotors, and pads, and fresh fluid so I can do the whole system bleed.
Once I get enough to get all 4 rotors, and pads, and fresh fluid so I can do the whole system bleed.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 544
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From: Jersey Shore Not Seaside!
Maybe I stated it wrong. Won't bet on that however. When braking the weight shifts to the front and the front brake proportioning valves are set to provide more braking to the front brakes because of this. Still stand by 2 to 3 front pads to 1 rear is relavent on a normal basis. Potato Potatoe, your choice.
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2012
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if i do a stoppie on my sport bike, and am lifting the rear wheel,
i do believe that 100% of the stopping power is on the front wheel.
no proportioning valve on the big suzook either...
i do believe that 100% of the stopping power is on the front wheel.
no proportioning valve on the big suzook either...
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 544
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From: Jersey Shore Not Seaside!
Can do the same on my Suzi too.
Weight shift affects tire traction, as you point out, to the point of inhibiting the rear brake from doing any work. But brake torque (work) is only altered by the hydraulic pressure applied and what temperature the friction material and rotor are at for us typical drivers. So as long as tires maintain adhesion, weight shift will not change the front to rear brake bias.
Is that how you two guys make every stop? Lifting the rear wheels to the tires adhesion limit? Or do you occasionally decelerate at rates when both the front and rear tires are able to maintain full adhesion to the road surface at a deceleration rate that the average consumer stops at? Or does the handle "Fulthrotl" answer that.
Weight shift affects tire traction, as you point out, to the point of inhibiting the rear brake from doing any work. But brake torque (work) is only altered by the hydraulic pressure applied and what temperature the friction material and rotor are at for us typical drivers. So as long as tires maintain adhesion, weight shift will not change the front to rear brake bias.
Is that how you two guys make every stop? Lifting the rear wheels to the tires adhesion limit? Or do you occasionally decelerate at rates when both the front and rear tires are able to maintain full adhesion to the road surface at a deceleration rate that the average consumer stops at? Or does the handle "Fulthrotl" answer that.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
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From: Spanaway
I would say
Check clean and grease the rear. If more than 50%
left you can reuse the pads. If less than 50% replace them
EBC makes some good ones. The last set I changed
was on the 02 Ranger 4X4 I just sold and I put EBC Green Stuff
on the front end. It improved my stopping distance and has
a red bedding compound on it. I always turn the rotors when I
replace pads.
Sean
Check clean and grease the rear. If more than 50%
left you can reuse the pads. If less than 50% replace them
EBC makes some good ones. The last set I changed
was on the 02 Ranger 4X4 I just sold and I put EBC Green Stuff
on the front end. It improved my stopping distance and has
a red bedding compound on it. I always turn the rotors when I
replace pads.
Sean
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