Hello from Canada
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New User
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 15
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From: Vancouver, BC
Hello from Canada
Hi everyone! I'm restoring a 1951 F1, on a 1952 frame for my boss. This is my first Ford restoration and so far it's been cool. He wants it stock, an homage to his grandfather, and I need help in sourcing parts. I have one rear spring hangar pin that won't come out. pounded it in a bit to free it up and threaded a 4" nipple into the grease fitting hole and used a slide hammer. Didn't budge. Anyone have a tip for removing it?
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,661
Likes: 23
I probably won't help much but wanted to say welcome to FTE 
I'm probably thinking of the wrong part, but have you tried heat yet? If it's something you can take a torch too the heat will shrink it a tiny bit and then it's easier to remove. Sometimes you just need a little heat (300 degrees), sometimes it needs to glow (1450 degrees).
I'm probably thinking of the wrong part, but have you tried heat yet? If it's something you can take a torch too the heat will shrink it a tiny bit and then it's easier to remove. Sometimes you just need a little heat (300 degrees), sometimes it needs to glow (1450 degrees).
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 222
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From: Alberta, Canada
I have had good dealings with The Old Car Centre :
The Old Car Centre - Street Rod, Vintage Ford and Chevy Parts - The Most Complete Source of Street Rod and Reproduction Parts in Canada
And my local go to guys for pretty much everything including a great amount of knowledge:
George Moir Antique Auto Parts Ltd.
The Old Car Centre - Street Rod, Vintage Ford and Chevy Parts - The Most Complete Source of Street Rod and Reproduction Parts in Canada
And my local go to guys for pretty much everything including a great amount of knowledge:
George Moir Antique Auto Parts Ltd.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,299
Likes: 1,059
From: NM
Is all the weight (or spring force) off the pin? Even the weight of the spring needs to be off it. The part of the pins inside the spring get worn on the OD, so you need to be able to get the larger, unworn diameter aligned with the spring ID to get it out. Once that unworn part gets into the spring it usually comes easier. Know what I mean?
Marmon-Herrington Man
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,986
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From: Central Illinois
Here's an old thread on the subject. You're on the right track using the slide hammer, but I prefer to use the threaded bolt that allows you to really put the torque to the bandit. Stu
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10613581
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10613581
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New User
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 15
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From: Vancouver, BC
I couldn't find a NPT bolt and nut so I threaded in a bolt. I've taken the weight off, wiggled ,jiggled, used every cuss word real and made up. Don't want to start a grease fire in warehouse, fire sprinklers and alarms and all that, so heating the castiron is out. Thanks for the tips!
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 701
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From: Echuca VIC Australia
I spent many hours swearing at mine, in the end only heat worked. You might have to drag it outside and get the torch onto it.
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New User
Joined: Jun 2012
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From: Vancouver, BC
I was in Qeensland 2 years ago. Loved Austrailia. I got a Falcon XR6 as a rental and had lot's of pix taken, photo radar.
. Drove 4000Kms in 3 weeks! If I'd gone as a young man I'd have stayed.
. Drove 4000Kms in 3 weeks! If I'd gone as a young man I'd have stayed.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 4,965
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From: East KY
IF you're talking about the front pin for the rear spring, it's blocked by the crossmember between the frame rails. Take a 3/4" hole saw and cut an access hole in that crossmember level with the access hole in the frame rail for the pin (Ford put a hole in the frame, but apparently forgot about the crossmember). Then stick a big long cheap punch or a long ratchet extension into the hole and knock the hell out of it. It will come. Cutting that access hole takes about 2 or 3 seconds per side. That crossmember is very thin.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 131
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From: Grande Cache Alberta
welcome to fte. This is a great site. I am a canadian too. Alberta. Anyway I had the same problem with my build last year i had no torch just basic tools a good buzz box type stick welder and a grinder was how i had done buisness on my build. I would love torch set but could never afford this option. So i had taken off the shackle holders off the frame grind down rivets and punch out.Those rivets can be replaced with grade 8 bolts and nylock nuts.Than when you have the springs out you can rest in vise and hit it out. If this dont work and you have no torch mabie propane and penitration fluid might work. If this procedure will not work try stick weld and when it is red pound out.
hope this helps.
oh yeah I forgot supplier George Moir antique ford is a great supplier in the north region for 48-56 fords reasonably priced most things and he has evrything most stock he ships greyhound so you usually only wait 1 day max 2 days otherwise try american suppliers but as us canadians get stung for customs fees and shipping.
George Moir Antique Auto Parts Ltd.
1 Boulder Boulevard
Stony Plain, AB T7Z 1V6
Tel: (780) 963-7334
Fax: (780) 963-6187
Email: info@georgemoir.ca
talk soon,
sean m conroy
hope this helps.
oh yeah I forgot supplier George Moir antique ford is a great supplier in the north region for 48-56 fords reasonably priced most things and he has evrything most stock he ships greyhound so you usually only wait 1 day max 2 days otherwise try american suppliers but as us canadians get stung for customs fees and shipping.
George Moir Antique Auto Parts Ltd.
1 Boulder Boulevard
Stony Plain, AB T7Z 1V6
Tel: (780) 963-7334
Fax: (780) 963-6187
Email: info@georgemoir.ca
talk soon,
sean m conroy
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