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Old 06-05-2012, 08:47 AM
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I need a schematic for

the a/c system for a2001 PSD 7.3L.

Specifically, I need to know how to access the evap coil. Everything on my a/c system is working, including the compressor, and I am not producing very cold air.

In fact, the hotter it gets during the day, the less the a/c works.

I am confident in the charge, and the air flow seems to be adequate.

I was thinking maybe a dirty coil. I am an a/c professional so I know a little about car refrigeration. I am always up for some advice though!!
 
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:53 AM
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Is the air gap OK between the clutch and the clutch plate? If it gets too wide from wear (and I'm sure you already know this, but am only commenting on the rare chance you don't), you can see the exact same symptoms as the day heats up. Reducing the shims to obtain minimum air gap without engaging the clutch 100% of the time might be a simple fix for you.

From what I've read, the clutch coil rarely goes out, but the clutch air gap is a known and easily fixed problem.

If that is your problem, I just ordered (online) a brand new Motorcraft clutch (w/o the coil) from Tousley Ford for about $35, and took this approach only so I can set my used clutch aside as an emergency spare for my other two 7.3's.

I have some schematics, but they're on my other laptop at home and I can;t access them from where I am right now.
 
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:53 AM
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If you want to check evaporator core, you can remove the blower motor from the front of the case under the hood and look inside with a mirror.
 
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by F250_
Is the air gap OK between the clutch and the clutch plate? If it gets too wide from wear (and I'm sure you already know this, but am only commenting on the rare chance you don't), you can see the exact same symptoms as the day heats up. Reducing the shims to obtain minimum air gap without engaging the clutch 100% of the time might be a simple fix for you.

From what I've read, the clutch coil rarely goes out, but the clutch air gap is a known and easily fixed problem.

If that is your problem, I just ordered (online) a brand new Motorcraft clutch (w/o the coil) from Tousley Ford for about $35, and took this approach only so I can set my used clutch aside as an emergency spare for my other two 7.3's.

Pete....I did not know about the air gap. Thanks for pointing that out. Like I said, the differences between auto and residential a/c are just enough to make me feel like a rookie...lol

The compressor I installed is a re-man. It's about a year old. Any chance that it could have been shimmed wrong at the factory?
 
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Old 06-05-2012, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by cherrob123
Pete....I did not know about the air gap. Thanks for pointing that out. Like I said, the differences between auto and residential a/c are just enough to make me feel like a rookie...lol

The compressor I installed is a re-man. It's about a year old. Any chance that it could have been shimmed wrong at the factory?
I would hope that the rebuilder would use the correct setting, but that is a possibility. All it takes is a feeler gauge to know for sure. I've attached a PDF document where I've compiled a several sets of instructions and a few different threads, all of which address this issue in particular. That way, you have a one-stop shopping point for the air gap issue and don't have to search through all of FTE. The opening instructions on the first few pages are really good and cover the specs for how to determine and set the gap.
 
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Old 06-05-2012, 03:18 PM
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You can put a shut off valve to your heater core also. This helps a lot. My hose and shut off is run past the ac pump.
 
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Old 06-05-2012, 03:28 PM
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beyond this I ain't much help.There is a screen that goes into one of the lines going into "the heater box". That was my issue (it was stopped up) and I was having the same problem..Mine is an 03 not sure about the 01
 
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:15 PM
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Those are all great ideas and I appreciate the input. I checked the compressor and sure enough, it was cycling on and off on a very regular basis. Almost like the low pressure switch was kicking in and out.


I jumped around the switch and still had the same problem. I also rechecked my pressure readings and all were ok when the compressor kicked on considering the cab temp was about a brazillion degrees....hot day in HTown

The air gap looked to be quite a bit over twenty thousandths when the compressor was sitting still. I'm getting the gap gauges and I'll check that tomorrow.

Again guys....thanks for the help.

A special shout out to Pete. That pdf is a one stop shopping bonanza. Thanks alot!!
 
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Old 06-06-2012, 07:55 AM
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Tried updating and posting some wiring schematics from the Ford OEM Wiring Manual last night, but was having trouble connecting to the FTE server.

The attached PDF has all the schematics for Auxiliary A/C, Factory-installed A/C, and EATC (automatic controlled Electronic Air Temperature Control), so you should be able to find anything you need from these. If you need more details, I can get them when I get back home tonight (unless I can connect to my AlldataDIY accounts which were also not working last night).

Oh... the attached file is from the 2002 year model Wiring Manual, but it should be exactly the same for your 2001.
 
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Old 06-08-2012, 09:29 PM
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Alright....I went in with the handy dandy pdf that Pete provided and reshimmed the clutch plate.

I'll be damned but that did the trick.

I had forgotten how cold the a/c is in my truck.

Once again, this site rocks and probably saved me another few hundred dollars in repair costs.

You guys rock
 
  #11  
Old 06-09-2012, 03:47 PM
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Thanks for letting us know how it worked out. I just received my new A/C clutch and pulley earlier this week, and hope to put them in tomorrow. Since I have two other 7.3's, I'll just keep the ones I take out as emergency spares.
 
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