A/C question for projectSHO89
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From: Chesapeake
A/C question for projectSHO89
I get on here and read and read and read, then when I can't find the answer, I'll post. In all my reading, you seem to answer most of the A/C questions. I just put a new motor in my 2000 F150 5.4, and I had to disconnect the A/C lines. While the motor was out I replaced the accumulator, and o-rings to anything disconnected. I vacuumed down the low and high side for 1 1/2 hours, then setup for my first can. I couldn't even get a whole 12 oz can in it. Static pressure is at 115, compressor clutch isn't engaging, and it won't suck anymore 134. I tried jumping the low side and high side switches, individually and at the same time. When that failed I tried giving the compressor 12v straight at the connector. Nothing. Got anything for me to try?
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From: St Louis
When that failed I tried giving the compressor 12v straight at the connector.
Did you check the air gap of the clutch? If it's too wide, the clutch won't energize.
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From: Chesapeake
Thanks, I'll get the meter out. Mine doesn't look like the air gap type I found on most videos. I assume you are talking about the ones you can get some feeler guages in between the clutch and the body of the compressor?
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From: Chesapeake
The coil reads 3.5 ohms and it getting 12v with the low side cycle switch shorted. Damn thing worked before I pulled the motor. Anybody have a picture of where to measure the air gap on these? It's not the type that visibly opens and closes like on the 250s. I don't just want to go in and remove a shim and hope for the best. I've scoured the internet.
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From: Chesapeake
If it is that type, it looks closed to me. I would think that means engaged? It definitely isn't. If I'm out to lunch, let me know.
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From: Chesapeake
It must be between the clutch plate and the pulley, it's the only thing that makes sense. It measures .035 and wobbly. I'll try tightening it up first.
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From: St Louis
Yeah, you're on the right track. Gap is excessive. See if the clutch hub is starting to disintegrate.
The same clutch hub was used on numerous models in that era, including cars and trucks. The re[placement, if you end up needing one, is a MotorCraft YB-3020 which, coincidentally, is what I'll be installing this afternoon on my Super Duty.
The same clutch hub was used on numerous models in that era, including cars and trucks. The re[placement, if you end up needing one, is a MotorCraft YB-3020 which, coincidentally, is what I'll be installing this afternoon on my Super Duty.
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From: Chesapeake
Well I believe I've fought this down as far as it can go. It measured .035 but the clutch disc seemed to flex quite a bit. Tightened the 8mm bolt down and it measured .030, no go. Took the clutch out, removed a shim and measured .015, no go. It tried to spin in slow motion for a second then stopped. Looks like a new compressor...yea...
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From: Chesapeake
Yeah, you're on the right track. Gap is excessive. See if the clutch hub is starting to disintegrate.
The same clutch hub was used on numerous models in that era, including cars and trucks. The re[placement, if you end up needing one, is a MotorCraft YB-3020 which, coincidentally, is what I'll be installing this afternoon on my Super Duty.
The same clutch hub was used on numerous models in that era, including cars and trucks. The re[placement, if you end up needing one, is a MotorCraft YB-3020 which, coincidentally, is what I'll be installing this afternoon on my Super Duty.
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From: St Louis
Pull the serpentine belt and check the pulley bearings. I got under mine yesterday and did that, found the pulley was wobbly, the compressor was seized, and the whole system was contaminated with what appears to be a granular substance. I figure the desiccant bag ruptured. Fun times....
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