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Does it have sufficient air gap when disengaged? You need at least 25 thousanths air gap.If not you should add a shim to open the air gap, but not too much or it wont close when activated.
Yes, I have change the gap several times, and it is as far out as it can possibly go, but still work. Last night I took the front part off, but still had the belt and every thing connected. The squeak was still there, so I'm very confused.
When I replaced the clutch, I couldn't get the old back piece off (the electrical part). I can't understand how changing this part would help, but do you know how this part comes off? I can't find any retaining ring or anything that would hold it in.
The coil is pressed on, and you have to drive it off. I use a large cold chizel wedged between the coil and the body bolts of the compressor and drive the chisel between them all around evenly untill it pops off. The new one has to be pressed back on or carefully driven on with about a 2 pound hammer. DONT strike the aluminum part of the body at any point.
Its possible if you had to drive the new pulley on that you damaged the bearing if you didnt use something against the inner race. If you drove it on by hitting the pulley itself you likely damaged the new bearing. Changing the clutch is best done off the vehicle.
The new pulley went on very easy. I didn't need to use a hammer to get it on or off. I'm going to try to change out the coil tonight, but I still don't see how that will help.
If the pulley went on TOO easily it may be a bad mounting boss on the compressor. The old bearing may have siezed and worn away too much of the aluminum and now it fits too loosely on the compressor. If that is the case you will have to replace the compressor. The pulley should be a snug fit.
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