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electrical power window problem help please:-)

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Old 05-31-2012, 08:03 PM
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electrical power window problem help please:-)

posted before and no reply so I am reaching out again. 2003 V10 LTD right passenger door power window, window went down and that was that. Bought a new motor, window goes down and that was that. Bought a new driver door master control and window goes down and that is that. Took the other doors switch and swapped it and the window goes down and that is that. Someone mentioned about it has lost the ground but was not expanded upon. What I need to know please is how wire the problem. I am in the process of checking the wiring loom between the B-Pillar and door for breaks...can someone expand upon what color should I be looking at for a wire? Trying to not have to slice open the wrapping and see where the window motor ties into for wire color. So if I have power to the motor and I lost the ground as someone mentioned because the motor will not reverse.

Conclusion: I really need to get this fixed. I am in the process of putting the truck back together as I have refurbished the whole thing back to new. I hate wiring, I understand enough, and I understand a lot if spoken to in very plain 2nd grade english.

UPDATE: I jumped the motor from the switch itself. Found what wires go hot in forward and reverse and wired them to the switch directly. Still the same thing, one direction...so who do I get this cursed thing to go the opposite direction also.

I understand that when in one position, one of the motor wires goes to ground the other hot, when the switch is pushed the opposite direction the wires that was hot is now ground, and ground is now hot...all windows but this one work so how do I create a ground

Further thought, BCM issue????

Thanking all of you in advance:-)
 
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Old 06-01-2012, 02:38 AM
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Electrical trivia...oh I have to go lie down now...
 
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Old 06-01-2012, 05:11 AM
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The TN/LB & WH/YE wires at the switch should be grounded. That common ground is supplied by the black wire at the master switch. If you jump pin 1 TN/LB to pin 2 RD/YE and jump pin 3 YE/LG with pin 5 YE/RD the window should go up. Check continuity of TN/LB & WH/YE from master switch to rf switch.
 
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Old 06-01-2012, 09:35 AM
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RF switch being??? Got all the other stuff and I have a big, serious THANK YOU...will try this out today
 
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Old 06-01-2012, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Bronco_Daddy
RF switch being??? Got all the other stuff and I have a big, serious THANK YOU...will try this out today
I'm pretty sure he meant Right Front switch, your front passenger door switch !
 
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Old 06-01-2012, 12:40 PM
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Thank You!! You guys are the best without doubt
 
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Old 06-02-2012, 07:48 PM
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Didn't work guys, drowning here

several things...I gave the wrong door indication to you..its the right rear passenger. Regardless, it all transferred over to the rear door with regard to pins..here is the schematic I understand..

1 2

3

5 4

A C

This is how it laid out in the configuration (Looking inside the switch at the plug in blades) you spelled out on the front passenger door, so it should lay out the same given the same switch

When done in this configuration, the motor (which is out of the door) started rotating without activation of the switch. The wires got hot also. With activation of the switch nothing occurred, no reversal, nothing. What I am in need of is hot to get this window to function normally....I have replaced everything minus the BCM







 
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Old 06-02-2012, 10:01 PM
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Check RD/BK & YE/BK, they should be grounded until you operate the switch. As you operate the switch they alternate from - to + depending on direction. The ground is supplied by the master switch. YE/LG is the power supply. You probably have a broken wire inside the rubber boot near the hinge.
 
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Old 06-02-2012, 10:48 PM
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so the wire inside the boot should be hot? I looked and saw no damage to the outer skin of the wires,,, can test light if its hot or try to do continuity test..those wires are coming from the passenger front door?
 
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Old 06-02-2012, 10:57 PM
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I did test the plug for the motor. With the switch in neutral, the volt meter was going all over the place.. up position it was -12.4 and in the down position it went + and running all over the place with volts..would run up to 20 volts and start over..the -12.4 was solid
 
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