Power window help...
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Power window help...
Hello, Hope someone can help a new guy out. I have a 1992 Aerostar that
the power windows quit working, and here is where I am at, I have power
to both driver and passanger side switches. I have power to the connector
between the passanger switch and window motor. I can run the passanger
window down but it won't go back up, yet the switch shows 12 volts to the
window motor on the up side, still won't go if I try to help it along with my
hand. If I run a jumper wire from the battery to the motor, I get the window
to run both directions. All the components seem to work, but not together,
can someone help me please??? THANK YOU!!!
the power windows quit working, and here is where I am at, I have power
to both driver and passanger side switches. I have power to the connector
between the passanger switch and window motor. I can run the passanger
window down but it won't go back up, yet the switch shows 12 volts to the
window motor on the up side, still won't go if I try to help it along with my
hand. If I run a jumper wire from the battery to the motor, I get the window
to run both directions. All the components seem to work, but not together,
can someone help me please??? THANK YOU!!!
Elder User
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From: Georgia
I don't have the diagram here at work but I have an idea what the problem is. You need both 12V and ground for the motor to work.
The motor has two wires. If you put 12v on one and ground on the other the window will go up. Reverse the wires and the window will go down.
This makes for a slightly complicated switch. It has to connect the 12v and ground in either polarity depending on how you push the button (up or down).
Both 12v and ground for the passenger window comes from the driver's side control. So if the driver's side does not work, I think the problem is on that side. How does the driver's window act?
I can't say much more without having the diagram to refresh my memory. Do you have a Haynes manual? It has a diagram that could help.
The motor has two wires. If you put 12v on one and ground on the other the window will go up. Reverse the wires and the window will go down.
This makes for a slightly complicated switch. It has to connect the 12v and ground in either polarity depending on how you push the button (up or down).
Both 12v and ground for the passenger window comes from the driver's side control. So if the driver's side does not work, I think the problem is on that side. How does the driver's window act?
I can't say much more without having the diagram to refresh my memory. Do you have a Haynes manual? It has a diagram that could help.
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New User
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My driver side window and driver side switch works fine, HOWEVER, the driver side
switch for the passanger side window doesn't do anything, up or down. No I don't
have a Haynes manual, but starting to think I better get one for this darn van.
Thanks for replying!!!
switch for the passanger side window doesn't do anything, up or down. No I don't
have a Haynes manual, but starting to think I better get one for this darn van.
Thanks for replying!!!
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 624
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From: Georgia
OK, I've look at the diagram again.
On the right (passenger) door control you should have the following
LB/BK is hot all when the key is on.
W/Y and T/LB both will be ground provided via the left door control. If either of these are floating (not ground) then you have a problem with the wiring between the doors or the left control. If they are grounded then you may have a bad right switch.
The Y/R and R/Y go to the window motor and will be 12V and gnd or gnd and 12v depending on pushing the switch up or down.
When you push the left switch up or down either the W/Y or the T/LB will be 12V.
I'm thinking you may have more than one problem since the left control doesn't work at all and the right only one way. Try some experimenting and let me know what you find.
On the right (passenger) door control you should have the following
LB/BK is hot all when the key is on.
W/Y and T/LB both will be ground provided via the left door control. If either of these are floating (not ground) then you have a problem with the wiring between the doors or the left control. If they are grounded then you may have a bad right switch.
The Y/R and R/Y go to the window motor and will be 12V and gnd or gnd and 12v depending on pushing the switch up or down.
When you push the left switch up or down either the W/Y or the T/LB will be 12V.
I'm thinking you may have more than one problem since the left control doesn't work at all and the right only one way. Try some experimenting and let me know what you find.
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Thank you very much, I went back over everything with the wires as you described,
and discovered that on the driver side passanger switch had no ground from the T/LB
wire. I put an external jumper from the Black and T/LB, and now I have, up only,
on the driver side passanger switch, but I now have up and down on the passanger
side switch. I can live with that, as it is a cheap fix, and I am currently out of work.
Thanks again, very much for your assistance....
and discovered that on the driver side passanger switch had no ground from the T/LB
wire. I put an external jumper from the Black and T/LB, and now I have, up only,
on the driver side passanger switch, but I now have up and down on the passanger
side switch. I can live with that, as it is a cheap fix, and I am currently out of work.
Thanks again, very much for your assistance....
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 624
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From: Georgia
It sounds like the problem is with either the T/LB line or the driver's switch.
When you push down (I think) on the dirver's switch the T/LB should go to 12V and the W/Y will stay at ground. Pushing up you will get the oppisite.
One question. Did you disconnect the T/LB wire coming from the driver's switch before you jummpered it to ground? You should. Just to prevent it from accidently shorting out.
Hope you get back to work soon. Good luck.
When you push down (I think) on the dirver's switch the T/LB should go to 12V and the W/Y will stay at ground. Pushing up you will get the oppisite.
One question. Did you disconnect the T/LB wire coming from the driver's switch before you jummpered it to ground? You should. Just to prevent it from accidently shorting out.
Hope you get back to work soon. Good luck.
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2003
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I had problems with driver window working intermittently. I used a wire brush to clean the contacts on the back of the switch and it has worked perfectly since.
Just a thought...
Just a thought...
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Tom F., My guess would be the switch, since when I push it down and I get 12v on
T/LB and W/Y, when I push it up, I have NO 12v on either.
Should I disconnect T/LB from driver or passanger side switch or will that matter ?
Cowamor, I cleaned the terminals real good, really weren't bad in the first place,
but I had that thought also, Thanks.
T/LB and W/Y, when I push it up, I have NO 12v on either.
Should I disconnect T/LB from driver or passanger side switch or will that matter ?
Cowamor, I cleaned the terminals real good, really weren't bad in the first place,
but I had that thought also, Thanks.
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Elder User
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From: Georgia
I can understand the 12V on both wires but the other doesn't make sense.
If you have lost the ground (like I think) then the T/LB wire will float up to 12V. That is without the jumper. The motor will not work without the ground.
You jummpered in a ground on the T/LB wire which will give you the ground you need for the driver's side to make the window go down. That wire should go to 12V for the window to go up (via the driver's switch). That is where you could get the short I talked about.
It sounds like you jummpered around the driver's switch to get the ground on T/LB. I would disconnect or cut the T/LB coming from the driver's switch and connect the ground to the wire going to the passenger's switch (for a temp fix).
If you get the driver's switch fixed then remove the ground and reconnect the two wires.
With this settup you should get the down only from the driver's side and both from the passenger's side switch. That will keep you going for now.
To answer the question: disconnect the T/LB from the driver's switch. You need the ground (jummper) connect to the passenger's switch or you will be back where you first started.
If you have lost the ground (like I think) then the T/LB wire will float up to 12V. That is without the jumper. The motor will not work without the ground.
You jummpered in a ground on the T/LB wire which will give you the ground you need for the driver's side to make the window go down. That wire should go to 12V for the window to go up (via the driver's switch). That is where you could get the short I talked about.
It sounds like you jummpered around the driver's switch to get the ground on T/LB. I would disconnect or cut the T/LB coming from the driver's switch and connect the ground to the wire going to the passenger's switch (for a temp fix).
If you get the driver's switch fixed then remove the ground and reconnect the two wires.
With this settup you should get the down only from the driver's side and both from the passenger's side switch. That will keep you going for now.
To answer the question: disconnect the T/LB from the driver's switch. You need the ground (jummper) connect to the passenger's switch or you will be back where you first started.
Last edited by tom_foreman; Aug 2, 2004 at 12:21 PM.
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Tom, I must have a bad driver side switch, this evening I lost the driver side switch
completely, no left or right window control. This thing is enough to make a preacher
cuss. I will keep playing with it, but a new switch will just have to wait a couple of weeks.
completely, no left or right window control. This thing is enough to make a preacher
cuss. I will keep playing with it, but a new switch will just have to wait a couple of weeks.
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This thread is a life saver
Thanks for this thread. I thought that my motor was burned out but it is apparently just the switch. I couldn't get the driver side window up and I assumed that the motor was grounded and that one applied 12V to the different terminals to go up or down. It never occured to me that the ground was done the way that it is. I suppose it makes some sense. Thanks for saving me a bunch of money!!
mike
mike
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shotgunner426
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Oct 3, 2003 04:06 PM
