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I don't think I'm driving this thing right........

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Old May 29, 2012 | 04:43 PM
  #16  
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kas83
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You're talking about the rubber line that connects to the hardline that goes back to the tank?
 
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Old May 29, 2012 | 05:49 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by kas83
You're talking about the rubber line that connects to the hardline that goes back to the tank?
Yes. The return cap on the rearmost driver's side injector has two nipples on it. One leads back to the return cap for the next injector in line. The other heads off 90° to that line (towards the center of the truck) and goes to some sort of metal nipple that's located under the turbo housing. From there it goes into the rubber/hard line(s) that head back to the fuel tanks along the driver's side frame rail.

I replaced that one the first time I had leaks and it solved the problem. When I took a quick glance under the hood yesterday, I fully expected it to be wet again, but it wasn't.

Mike
 
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Old Jun 8, 2012 | 11:27 AM
  #18  
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Finally got some time to tear into this thing. As I sorta guessed, the line that goes from the rearmost injector on the passenger side and wraps around to the drivers' side (the one Banks tells you to re-route) is so old it has cracks completely through it. I'm guessing the guy who installed the Banks kit didn't bother to fully read the instructions, because the end closest to the turbo housing was tucked right up underneath it with a bunch of other stuff close by for it to rub on. It seems he also elected to NOT bother installing the bracket for the turbo correctly. One end is hooked up, but the other end that is supposed to be held with a bolt from the bell housing is just hanging in the wind. I can't loosen the attached end without pulling the turbo, so I guess I know what the next job is.

I'll also be dialing the injection pump back a flat once I'm done. In the middle of the return lines right now (taking a break to go get the Zycam bottle), but hopefully this will be the last of all this nonsense so I can stop worrying about my truck and start enjoying it.

Mike
 
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Old Jun 8, 2012 | 12:20 PM
  #19  
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Wow... that sucks man. I hate lazy PO's, only thing worse is the ones that like to take a hatchet to the wiring.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 12:17 AM
  #20  
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Yeah, that job's gonna wait for a while. It took me all day to get done with the return lines alone. It was a comedy of errors, including dropping every last nut and bolt in the intake valley AT LEAST once. And the line isolators? Good Lord. Those alone took about an hour to re-install. Last but not least, I managed to kill one of the batteries, so I bit the bullet and replaced them both. Hooray for Costco; $85/ea vs $130/ea at any of the local parts stores.

Didn't get around to the injection pump work, but I'm sure she needs it. The black smoke from revving it at a stop are pretty noticeable. But hey, she starts REAL strong and isn't POURING out diesel now. Hopefully this is the last of it for a bit.

Actually, that does bring up a question. I've only had the truck a couple months, but I don't recall it shooting any black smoke before even when revving. I could just not be remembering it right, though. Anywho, I'm under the impression that black smoke on a diesel isn't a bad thing (except it's an indication that there's too much fuel, higher EGTs, blah blah blah), but is there a reason I'd start getting more? The only thing I can think of it that I run a LOT of Power Service Diesel Kleen in it. I put 1 bottle in every fill-up split between the two tanks (the silver bottle meant to treat 100 gallons). Maybe I just managed to clear all the crud out of an old system that had been sitting for a while?

Mike
 
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 03:57 AM
  #21  
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you could blow air back to your tank with the cap off just to make sure its all clear as well. check all those olive connections and replace since they are cheap while in there.

i like these autometer gages i found on ebay one day. they aren't round which migh stink if you already have setup, but i found i made myself my own mounting row out of a stock panel to go in the dash of my cars.

you set the high end for each gage and then get a big nasty aircraft buzzer noise when you hit that threshold. and the digital gage also has a readout with the actual so a quick glance will be easy as a reference.

not foolproof but no gage is. i went this route because a family member overheated my old vw diesel after a coolant hose burst. they watched the stock gages climb and flash which at its first stage indicated low coolant, yet continued to drive the car until it locked up
 
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 11:23 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT
guys.your forgetting where the probe is located on the banks system.
banks designed the kit.rest assured they know best.
X2 on this, but I think Banks is still a little conservative as they are on their wastegate setting. I'm thinking about putting my pyro probe in the manifold so I don't have to wonder what up-pipe temp would translate to a melted piston Likewise I won't be judging my engine's oil pressure from a sender on top of the turbo housing. If you are serious about pushing your EGT vs. performance boundary, relocate your pyro. Otherwise just keep it under 1100 where Banks put the probe. Like NMB2 said, 900 is nothin'. Push it a little and see what it takes to make it make it go higher. It might surprise you how much more you'd have to push it to get it to 1100. Remember also that this is a flow-through system, not a circulating system like coolant so heat won't build the same way that coolant temperatures do when you're pulling a grade.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 01:06 PM
  #23  
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Slight confession.... I don't think mine is wastegated. Banks had two models, right? And the wastegate is that round thing with the blue line running from it in the pick FORDF250HDXLT posted in Post #13, right? Yeah, don't have that.

I appreciate all the feedback. Being my first diesel, I get paranoid about all this stuff. In hindsight, though, I know the first owner used it to tow a boat and the second used it to tow horses, so it's gotta be doing something right. Still, dialing in the timing and maybe dialing back the IP a step seems like a safe measure. Now I just need to find someone who can do the timing.

Mike
 
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 01:32 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by whiteboyslo
Slight confession.... I don't think mine is wastegated. Banks had two models, right? And the wastegate is that round thing with the blue line running from it in the pick FORDF250HDXLT posted in Post #13, right? Yeah, don't have that.

I appreciate all the feedback. Being my first diesel, I get paranoid about all this stuff. In hindsight, though, I know the first owner used it to tow a boat and the second used it to tow horses, so it's gotta be doing something right. Still, dialing in the timing and maybe dialing back the IP a step seems like a safe measure. Now I just need to find someone who can do the timing.

Mike
you might as well but the ferret pulse timing adapter it is $300 well spent
 
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 01:39 PM
  #25  
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V765-01, Ferret Diesel injection Detector - GxT Inc.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 07:29 PM
  #26  
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From: Mi'kma'ki
hit up Gary (icanfixall) on oil burners.he rents the meters at very affordable rates.

just make sure to adjust your fuel first,because altering the screw in/out alters timing,as explained here by Dave:
Originally Posted by Dave Sponaugle
That sets the internal IP pressure.

The internal IP fuel pressure has a big effect on the timing.
For instance the timing advance solenoid closes off a vent passage, increasing the internal fuel pressure which in turn advances the timing.

As engine RPM increases, the fuel pump in the IP increases the internal fuel pressure, again advancing the timing.

The only thing that counter balances the timing advance caused by fuel pressure increase is the lever on the outside of the IP that runs from the throttle shaft down to the plunger on the bottom of the IP.

When that plunger gets pushed in when you press the throttle down and manually retards the timing.

Mechanical IP's are a balancing act.
Get to far out of balance, you fall down.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 08:09 PM
  #27  
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i bet if you turn the fuel down one or 2 flats you will see a major improvement in fuel economy and lower EGT's

my 88 runs with no smoke on revup, and a very slight haze an full throttle takeoff.
but it will give a little black smoke if i have the trailer loaded at 17,000 lbs
 
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 08:29 PM
  #28  
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'94IDITurbo7.3
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i hope you didn't pay $280 from ^^^ for the Ferret.

MUCH cheaper here for the same exact thing.
Ferret Instruments V765-01 Injector Tester - Fuel System Tools
 
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