Ignition issue
Recently bought a 1988 F150 Lariat xlt with 55000 miles on it. Ran into an issue with the ignition. The truck will start just fine, however when i go to shut it off, nothing. The truck stays running. I replaced the ignition box on the column and its still doing it, please please please help, im in the Army and need this vehicle and I am getting tired of shutting it off using the fuel pump solenoid. Also a brand new fuel pump solenoid was placed in it.
If not, Bubba may have did some wiring modifications.
The ignition switch is bolted to the middle of the steering column.
When you turn the ignition key, the key cylinder operates the
actuator which is made of pot metal. Attached to the actuator
is a rod. The other end of the rod attaches to the ignition switch and
is what moves the ignition switch to 5 positions.
You should only be able to remove the ignition key when the key cylinder is in
the Lock position.
Lock (insert or remove the ignition key in this position steering wheel is in locked position).
Off (key can not be removed engine should shut off, dash idiot lights off).
Run (Normal position with engine running, dash idiot lights on if engine is
not running).
.
Start (Starter cranks the engine) this position is spring loaded when
released it goes to the Run position.
Accessories (all the way counter clockwise. Radio should work in
this position).
Do you have all 5 positions?
The ignition switch has slotted mounting ears and can be moved
up and down the steering column until you get all 5 positions.
Do you have the tilt wheel option?
It's operated by pushing the turn signal lever back towards the dash.
If you have tilt wheel, move the steering wheel all the way up or down
and see if the engine can be shut off.
99% of the time it breaks in a no start position. 1% of the time it will brake in a no shut off position. the part costs around $15, and takes a few hours to change.
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99% of the time it breaks in a no start position. 1% of the time it will brake in a no shut off position. the part costs around $15, and takes a few hours to change.
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This is all awesome info these guys are posting up. My question is: How does the ignition lock cylinder feel when turning it? Has the resistance changed? Lost it's, uh, springiness? Have you tried moving just the rod itself and see what happens?
There is a procedure for adjusting the ignition switch. If you need it I will try finding it for you. As long as the actuator they mentioned earlier isnt broke, then the other component that is a key player is the gear that resides behind the lock cylinder that you turn. If it is not installed properly, it will rob you of key positions. Even one tooth off will jack it up. Good luck to you!
Chris





