Coolant temp
Thread Starter
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
Coolant temp
I have a feeling that the stat may be going bad.
The last few days I have not seen it get over 170F
Yes it was cool and raining . I would think after 30 min of
driving that it would of gone up more. BTW
Deltas are with in 3-4F. Just not getting hot.
So do I have a problem or not?
Thanks
Sean
The last few days I have not seen it get over 170F
Yes it was cool and raining . I would think after 30 min of
driving that it would of gone up more. BTW
Deltas are with in 3-4F. Just not getting hot.
So do I have a problem or not?
Thanks
Sean
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 345
Likes: 0
From: Oregon
At 170* you are about 20* to cold a stock Ford t/stat starts to open at 192.2* and is fully open at 219.2* You can get one here or from Ford few more $$$$
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Thread Starter
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
This question is more for curiosity.
Could they of killed it when the flush was done?
The cooler was replaced just before it became my truck.
Work done by Ford shop
And Thank You for that link.
Sean
Could they of killed it when the flush was done?
The cooler was replaced just before it became my truck.
Work done by Ford shop
And Thank You for that link.
Sean
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,076
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Whatever it is, looks like the thermostat is stuck open which is better than stuck close. I just bought one from Tousley Ford for about $22.xx. Member "Blades35" has an instruction on how to change the thermostat somewhere.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
I was looking at things and it does not look to be that hard of a job.
other than burping the system after.
Maybe if I ask he will post it.
Blades35 Can you post the t-stat replacement instructions Please and Thank You.
I agree with you on the stuck open. I had an old Bronco that stuck closed
my dad was helping me and almost took a shower in hot coolant when it
geysered out the filler cap when I turned it off
Sean
other than burping the system after.
Maybe if I ask he will post it.
Blades35 Can you post the t-stat replacement instructions Please and Thank You.
I agree with you on the stuck open. I had an old Bronco that stuck closed
my dad was helping me and almost took a shower in hot coolant when it
geysered out the filler cap when I turned it off
Sean
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,881
Likes: 3,595
You should have the instructions in the spreadsheet ......................
"Control F" and type in thermostat on the Index page.
It is in the "miscellaneous" worksheet.
"Control F" again on that page and you are there ........
"Control F" and type in thermostat on the Index page.
It is in the "miscellaneous" worksheet.
"Control F" again on that page and you are there ........
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,834
Likes: 25
From: Middle Tn.
1. Drain coolant
2. Add 2 cans of VC-9 and top off with distilled water.
3. Drive 20 to 30 miles, preferably at highway speeds.
4. Drain radiator at petcock first, then pull lower hose. Then remove block plug on driver side. Not necesary to do passenger side.
5. Remove t-stat. To do this, remove air cleaner. Then 2 nuts on t-stat housing. Pry press. sensor bracket off of studs. Tight fit but it will move. Remove 2 more nuts and pull t-stat and housing from studs.
6. Remove t-stat and put housing back on. Re-assemble everything and fill with distilled water.
7. Run at 1200 rpm's for 3 to 5 minutes and drain as described in step 4.
8. Repeat 4 to 5 times or until water coming at is as clear as water going in.
9. Install t-stat using new O ring. I used vaseline to hold the O ring in place.
10. After everything is re-assembled fill with a 50/50 mix of Ford premium gold or Zerex GO-5.
11. Start engine and check for leaks. This is a lot easier and quicker than it sounds. If you don't remove t-stat then you have to run truck between each flush till t-stat fully opens and then let cool down to work on it.
Highly recommend installing coolant filter kit while cooling system is empty. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
fficeffice" /><o
></o>
<o></o>
2. Add 2 cans of VC-9 and top off with distilled water.
3. Drive 20 to 30 miles, preferably at highway speeds.
4. Drain radiator at petcock first, then pull lower hose. Then remove block plug on driver side. Not necesary to do passenger side.
5. Remove t-stat. To do this, remove air cleaner. Then 2 nuts on t-stat housing. Pry press. sensor bracket off of studs. Tight fit but it will move. Remove 2 more nuts and pull t-stat and housing from studs.
6. Remove t-stat and put housing back on. Re-assemble everything and fill with distilled water.
7. Run at 1200 rpm's for 3 to 5 minutes and drain as described in step 4.
8. Repeat 4 to 5 times or until water coming at is as clear as water going in.
9. Install t-stat using new O ring. I used vaseline to hold the O ring in place.
10. After everything is re-assembled fill with a 50/50 mix of Ford premium gold or Zerex GO-5.
11. Start engine and check for leaks. This is a lot easier and quicker than it sounds. If you don't remove t-stat then you have to run truck between each flush till t-stat fully opens and then let cool down to work on it.
Highly recommend installing coolant filter kit while cooling system is empty. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
fficeffice" /><o></o><o
></o>
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 224
Likes: 1
Why would you recommend a VC-9 chemical flush if the cooler had just been replaced and the system has new fluid?
Just follow the replacement procedure steps and be done with it.
The bracket will move off the studs, just go slow and wiggle it until it loosens, one side at a time.
D
Just follow the replacement procedure steps and be done with it.
The bracket will move off the studs, just go slow and wiggle it until it loosens, one side at a time.
D
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Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,834
Likes: 25
From: Middle Tn.
Why would you recommend a VC-9 chemical flush if the cooler had just been replaced and the system has new fluid?
Just follow the replacement procedure steps and be done with it.
The bracket will move off the studs, just go slow and wiggle it until it loosens, one side at a time.
D
Just follow the replacement procedure steps and be done with it.
The bracket will move off the studs, just go slow and wiggle it until it loosens, one side at a time.
D
I'm hitting easy street
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,395
Likes: 27
From: Central Oregon
1. Drain coolant
2. Add 2 cans of VC-9 and top off with distilled water.
3. Drive 20 to 30 miles, preferably at highway speeds.
4. Drain radiator at petcock first, then pull lower hose. Then remove block plug on driver side. Not necesary to do passenger side.
5. Remove t-stat. To do this, remove air cleaner. Then 2 nuts on t-stat housing. Pry press. sensor bracket off of studs. Tight fit but it will move. Remove 2 more nuts and pull t-stat and housing from studs.
6. Remove t-stat and put housing back on. Re-assemble everything and fill with distilled water.
7. Run at 1200 rpm's for 3 to 5 minutes and drain as described in step 4.
8. Repeat 4 to 5 times or until water coming at is as clear as water going in.
9. Install t-stat using new O ring. I used vaseline to hold the O ring in place.
10. After everything is re-assembled fill with a 50/50 mix of Ford premium gold or Zerex GO-5.
11. Start engine and check for leaks. This is a lot easier and quicker than it sounds. If you don't remove t-stat then you have to run truck between each flush till t-stat fully opens and then let cool down to work on it.
Highly recommend installing coolant filter kit while cooling system is empty. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
<o></o>
2. Add 2 cans of VC-9 and top off with distilled water.
3. Drive 20 to 30 miles, preferably at highway speeds.
4. Drain radiator at petcock first, then pull lower hose. Then remove block plug on driver side. Not necesary to do passenger side.
5. Remove t-stat. To do this, remove air cleaner. Then 2 nuts on t-stat housing. Pry press. sensor bracket off of studs. Tight fit but it will move. Remove 2 more nuts and pull t-stat and housing from studs.
6. Remove t-stat and put housing back on. Re-assemble everything and fill with distilled water.
7. Run at 1200 rpm's for 3 to 5 minutes and drain as described in step 4.
8. Repeat 4 to 5 times or until water coming at is as clear as water going in.
9. Install t-stat using new O ring. I used vaseline to hold the O ring in place.
10. After everything is re-assembled fill with a 50/50 mix of Ford premium gold or Zerex GO-5.
11. Start engine and check for leaks. This is a lot easier and quicker than it sounds. If you don't remove t-stat then you have to run truck between each flush till t-stat fully opens and then let cool down to work on it.
Highly recommend installing coolant filter kit while cooling system is empty. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
fficeffice" /><o></o><o
></o>Seems that the procedure finished with drain the drain plug and pull the hose on the last flush, Not block plugs, and add Concentrated Coolant, that then mixes with the water left in block that then gives us our 50/50 mix.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 224
Likes: 1
. Next we need him to get it on video
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 224
Likes: 1
No harm, no foul all good here.
My intent was that it led the guy to believe he had to buy 99.00 in VC-9, 15.00 in Distilled water, no telling how much in new Ford Gold Coolant and spend an afternoon flushing when all he needed to do was R&R a Thermostat.
I think he's got it now, thanks for supplying the procedure.
D
My intent was that it led the guy to believe he had to buy 99.00 in VC-9, 15.00 in Distilled water, no telling how much in new Ford Gold Coolant and spend an afternoon flushing when all he needed to do was R&R a Thermostat.
I think he's got it now, thanks for supplying the procedure.
D
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,834
Likes: 25
From: Middle Tn.
I mearly gave the op the entire procedure which also explains getting to the t-stat in detail. If he can wrench on his own truck I'm sure he can figure out which part of the procedure he needs and maybe the complete procedure can benefit someone else.