Well I do know from doing this myself that SGII and Garmin Ecoroute HD. OBDII Y cable.
Don't play well together. The SGII locks up the EOT and the voltage reading is off

So plugging it into a computer may it go POOF! Or it could be ok.
I am sure that there is a cable of some type that they have to plug in
into a computer for repair and testing.It would be nice to be able
to download the X-code from a file into the unit.

Sean

 

Hey Benny, Been gone all week on the KW, got back late last night. Programed the X Gauges on my 99, 550. Took a while, my finger tips are like shovel handles. Anyway I plugged it into the 06 and started trying to come up with something. Got 2 codes, don't know what gauge I was in and now I am unable to go back and find anything else. I feel like an idiot but I can't figure it out . The codes are P2614 and P2617 any help appreciated.

Barry

 

P2614 C O R Camshaft Position Output Circuit CMPO signal intermittent Poor connection, electrical noise. In CMPO from PCM

P2617 C O R Crankshaft Position Output Circuit CKPO signal intermittent Poor connection, electrical noise. In CKPO from PCM


Start checking the wire harness and the plugs at those sensors and the Plugs that go to PCM from Cam & Crank sensors


as there is a very slim chance both those sensors would Die at the same time


IF YOU HAVE NO CMP/CKP SYNC OR FICM SYNC OR FPW CHECK FUSE F2-22
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post11836547


Also program the SGII for CMP/CKP Sync and FICM Sync

But these two codes are your no start

 

OK, so I am not sure where these sensors are. What is the PCM and where is it located? Pictures would help, not sure where to look for fuse F2-22, under hood or under dash?

Barry

 

I will be talking to the guy tomorrow. I have the Codes Benny and thanks guys for all the info.

 

The sensors are marked
CMP for camshaft
and CKP for crank sensor

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PCM and Fuses/relay driver side battery area

F2-22 is in CJB under steering wheel

 

OK, got some pictures and idea where to look at harness. I know there is a fuse block under the steering column but what is a CJB? Where can I find an explaination of these acronyms? Thanks for the help and your patience, what is the best time to get ahold of you,I am on Pacific time.

Barry

 

Utah 1hr ahead of you

Keep in mind these 2 DTC you have could be result of stall event so Did it ever stall???????????????????????????????????????

Cam sensor easy to get at

Crank sensor is PIA

I dont think Both sensor Bad more a wire harness

If you have a DVM you can check the Harness pins at PCM for HZ And continuity

this from Mchain a tech send him some reps

If you want to verify those circuits, you can connect a DVOM to both the CKP and CMP circuits of the middle PCM connector. Set your DVOM to Hz. On the CKP circuit, you should be seeing 150 to 200 Hz when the engine is cranked over (directly proportional to 150 to 200 RPMs). On the CMP circuit you should get a reading of 1.1 to 1.9 Hz when the engine is cranked over. Hopefully you won't have to go this far before you resolve your issue.

[FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2][FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2]This for CMP SensorPCM engine connector pin 31, harness side and the PCM engine connector pin 43, harness side.

And pins for crank sensor are pin 30 and pin 41

Hope this thread shows what pins at conector to check

CJB=Central Junction Box



ACRONYMS FORD
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/821641-acronyms.html

 

So, I have looked at everything That is visable without stripping the pickup down to a scrape heap. I'm not sure what you consider easy to get at but neither sensor fits that discription. Checked fuses and relays, can't see anything burnt or corroded. I think the next step is to load on a trailer and haul to dealer, 100 miles away. I don't have the patience to screw around with this,I'll end up breaking something. I do believe the engineer that designed this should have had the cheeks of his A_ _ completely pulled up over his head instead of half way like everything he designed into this rig.

Thanks for all the help I won't bother you anymore.

Barry

 

Its really not that Bad LOL

the 6.4L and the 6.7L are Far more intimidating

the 6.0L are the Last Breed of stuff that a common guy can work on the newer stuff needs programing of parts like out FICM when a new one is installed on the 6.0L

Remember the DTC you Got could be from a Stall Event

What about the rest the SGII numbers

 

Don't recall ever having a stall, last year I got a tank of bad fuel and toasted a set of injectors. Just replaced the batteries after the no start.
I read those 2 codes by accident, I copied them down then went looking for more and I can't seam to find any readings. How do you get info from the scan gauge?

Barry

 

I have been looking at this all day and there is no way to get at either sensor without removine al whole bunch of s--t. The CMP sensor is behind the power sterring pump and my hand will not fit past the tie rod. The CKP is above the external trans filter and cooling lines, and behind the belt tension idler. Short of dismanteling the front of the pickup there is no way. Also how do you know which pins are which numbers? Not sure how to get the connector off of the PCM. Do I remove the battery?? So far this has been a waste of time, if anybody has any ideas I'm listening otherwise it's going to the dealer, then it's going down the road...

 

MChan68 is a ford mechanic I think in Canada and he is a wizard. He has probably fixed more of them than you would believe. Ask him p/m maybe, Blade38 is a fabulous resource as well
Now I did see Benny feels it's more likely to be a harness issue, did you look over all the wiring under hood and make sure you didn't have a rat or squirrel chewing away on you stuff. Look for stupid stuff first. Both of those sensors can't go at same time imo you got something else going on.

Hang tight there is more help here than you will ever find anywhere else.

 

So, I hate to keep asking dumb questions but if the harness is damaged by a squirrel or something what do you do?, replace the whole wiring harness? From what I can see that is a major undertaking requiring removal of a lot of pieces. I already can't see how to get at the 2 sensors that need checking, the more info I get the more frustrated I become.

 

No if you find a section chewed up pull back wire loom and factory taping and reconnect the wires. They are all color coded individually and would be real easy to see whats what.