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Call All Experts On ECT vs EOT Spread

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Old May 19, 2012 | 03:25 PM
  #31  
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I assume a cold soak is just letting it sit for 12 hrs without starting it. I'll check temps in the morning. Thanks.
 
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Old May 19, 2012 | 03:33 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Picard
I assume a cold soak is just letting it sit for 12 hrs without starting it. I'll check temps in the morning. Thanks.


Yes Sir^^^^^^^^^^^^^


Post what you get
 
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Old May 19, 2012 | 07:02 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Fulthrotl
you can't upgrade to it unless you have a certain amount of time with
no calls.... but if you are eligible for it, grab it. once you qualify for it,
they don't take it away.

the 200 i think is a one shot thing, or very rare, but you have 100
miles whenever you need it.

two ford owners having a chat: "so, who gives the best towing package?"

sigh.
The 200 mile thing is once a year and with the rv premium package that includes the truck and the 5th wheel.
 
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Old May 20, 2012 | 12:48 AM
  #34  
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I just did a 2 hour (approx 10 gal/minute tap water) oil cooler back flush. Water was perfectly clean coming out the lower rad hose. My Delta has dropped from 30 degrees avg to around 20 now on the freeway, 80F outdoors. I going to try running a quart of RMI-25 for the summer and see if it has any effect. If not, I'm going to use a 1/2 hp transfer pump I got at Harbor Freight to back flush the oil cooler with some kind of cleaner, maybe Restore or spic n span (not sure yet)
My whole house coolant filter (pics in Gallery) is working well with about 3k miles on it. I'm running Delo ELC now. I'm doing this for Science.

BTW I have a lifted 2005 EX with 35" tires and probably has stock gears. My reasoning tells me I should expect to have higher deltas than normal even if I had a perfectly clean oil cooler as the motor is working harder all the time vs stock with these tires and lift. Logical?

One more thing, I noticed pulsed flushing is much better than just letting city water run through the cooler. So if I have to do the pumped back flush I think I'll try to make it oscillate.
 
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Old May 20, 2012 | 03:28 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by chetspencer
I just did a 2 hour (approx 10 gal/minute tap water) oil cooler back flush. Water was perfectly clean coming out the lower rad hose. My Delta has dropped from 30 degrees avg to around 20 now on the freeway, 80F outdoors.
I tried this back flush three times already and the temp creeped back up from 10*-12* after the flush to higher after a few hundred miles.

I don't think the higher delta form your EX has anything to do with your bigger tires. Your tires can't compete with heavy load on a trailer and the good oil cooler still cool the oil down to the delta within 15*.

I have had with the back flush already, I don't want to waste any more time and water bill on this. I rather spend the money and time to learn to replace this thing on my own and be done with it for another 50K miles. I am afraid to have the EGR crack and have oil in the engine block or worst.

I am seeing this as for a gas engine, I have to change the timing belt, water pump, spark plugs every 90 K miles. For the 6.0 L Power stroke beside everything else, change oil cooler every 50K miles or when the delta can't be within 15* anymore. This thing cost alot more to maintain and fixed just to have another 135 ft lb on tap compare to the 6.8 L gas engine.
 
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Old May 20, 2012 | 07:11 AM
  #36  
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There is no reason for oil coolers to fail if you use the right coolant, keep the levels where they need to be, and flush it every 50k miles (most likely longer intervals are acceptable w/ ELC coolant).
 
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Old May 20, 2012 | 09:04 PM
  #37  
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Just checked the temps after a 24 hr cold soak. EOT at 84, ECT at 84.9 and IAT at 84. Does this mean that the oil in my truck really is getting that hot or could I have a sensor bad?
 
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Old May 20, 2012 | 09:16 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Picard
Just checked the temps after a 24 hr cold soak. EOT at 84, ECT at 84.9 and IAT at 84. Does this mean that the oil in my truck really is getting that hot or could I have a sensor bad?
This is one method of checking tthe Temp sensors for accuricy

we do it this way because after 12 hours we know the truck oil has cooled to around ambeint temp and all temp sensors should be reporting ambeint temp

So ambeint temp basicaly sets the stage so to say
 
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Old May 20, 2012 | 09:32 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Picard
Just checked the temps after a 24 hr cold soak. EOT at 84, ECT at 84.9 and IAT at 84. Does this mean that the oil in my truck really is getting that hot or could I have a sensor bad?

So looking back at your situation your EOT was the High one

Now what you want to do is watch EOT Gauge as the truck heats up and even as it comes to operating temp. Watch it to see if it jumps around alot to high temp and then to low temp and back-n-forth

I have a BAD TFT sensor it reads good at cold soak but as it warms up it will dance all over the place it hits 7000* (no kidden) and jumps back to 90* or whatever and few seconds later jumps way high again and then down. But as it reaches normal operating temp it will stabilize and report fine. It does all this within the first 5 miles of driving so I know its not that hot when it reports 7000* within the first mile
 
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Old May 20, 2012 | 09:43 PM
  #40  
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I'm trying to find someone local that has the Ford software that could do a ride along to eliminate the possibility of the SCT tuner reading wrong. I'll keep you posted.
 
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Old May 20, 2012 | 10:24 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Picard
I'm trying to find someone local that has the Ford software that could do a ride along to eliminate the possibility of the SCT tuner reading wrong. I'll keep you posted.

thats good an EOT sensor probably cheap too

odds are you have a BAD Oil Cooler at minimum there have also ben a case or 2 of a BAd water pump/front cover not being able to push proper coolant flow threw the Oil Cooler to carrey heat away from the Oil
 
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Old May 24, 2012 | 02:34 AM
  #42  
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I have a brand new OEM oil cooler and previous EGR delete. My fan doesn't kick in until 220f ECT and by then the EOT is over 230f. No EOT over 235 and it only takes a few seconds of fan to bring everything down to non-panic levels.

I'm thinking/hoping my Scanguage II is reading 10f too high.
 
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Old May 24, 2012 | 06:42 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by RPM371
I have a brand new OEM oil cooler and previous EGR delete. My fan doesn't kick in until 220f ECT and by then the EOT is over 230f. No EOT over 235 and it only takes a few seconds of fan to bring everything down to non-panic levels.

I'm thinking/hoping my Scanguage II is reading 10f too high.


Is your EGR Valve still Plugged in

It Needs to be even with a EGR Deleate cuz its messing with your FAN operation

15* deltas with a new Oil Cooler did you flush the cooling system out before the new oil cooler was
installed

To check your SGII check temps after a 12hour cold soak they should be the SAME ie..ECT & EOT & TFT All should be right at Ambeint temp after the truck sits 12 hours
 
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Old May 24, 2012 | 10:31 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
Is your EGR Valve still Plugged in

It Needs to be even with a EGR Deleate cuz its messing with your FAN operation

15* deltas with a new Oil Cooler did you flush the cooling system out before the new oil cooler was
installed

To check your SGII check temps after a 12hour cold soak they should be the SAME ie..ECT & EOT & TFT All should be right at Ambeint temp after the truck sits 12 hours
My mechanic works for Ford but does my stuff on the side at his house. He changed the oil cooler and flushed the cooling system well. The EGR Delete was already done, but he said the did it right and chipped the system so I'm assuming it's plugged in. But we all know what happens when you ***/u/me things. I just checked my SG and all 3 are reading within a degree of each other at ambient temp.
 
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Old May 24, 2012 | 10:48 PM
  #45  
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Were ypou towing when those temps was taken??????

Its seems High Both ect and EOT so I dont think its scangauge or temp senders

watch both EOT & ECT as it warms up to temp for any big Jumps or high & Low temp changes

Could change thermostat to OEM cheap worth a shot

It also can be the case theres a coolant flow issue from Cavitated front cover and or water pump
 
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